MFG Crosswinds delivery time to EU?

[1Sascha]

Just pulled the trigger on those badboys... they were listed as "in stock" on their site but since I had to pay a PP fee of €17 ? and Croatia isn't that far from Germany, I didn't go with the super-quick, luxury (€34) delivery method. Do any Crosswinds-owners (preferably from western Europe) care to share how long it took for theirs to arrive via truck?

 

 

Thanks!

S.

[cardboard_killer]

When waiting for a fix, every addict lives and dies a hundred times.

[1Sascha]

 

 

I have no idea what you are talking about ... ?

 

S.

 

 

Edited April 27, 2022 by 1Sascha

[easterling77]

I'm fine with my standard T 16000M pedals.

 

But....now...you made me thinking...dammit?

Edited April 27, 2022 by easterling77

[1Sascha]

15 hours ago, easterling77 said:

I'm fine with my standard T 16000M pedals.

Never used those, but they can't be worse than the Saiteks I used for about a week before going straight back to my CH Pro Pedals. Or than having to use the twisty axis on my stick ... *shudder*

 

Hence...

 

 

 

But... naaww... I'm sure you're fine...

 

 

?

 

S.

Edited April 28, 2022 by 1Sascha

[1Sascha]

Well... looks like this won't take as long as getting a VKB stick from China via the Netherlands:

 

 

Still in Zagreb last I checked, but...

 

 

S.

 

[1Sascha]

I guess I can now answer my original question.

 

DPD guy just handed me the package 40 mins ago and now the X-winds are sitting under my desk.

 

 

So... exactly one week from date of order/purchase to delivery to Germany. Not too shabby, I'd say...

 

S.

[Volans]

Enjoy them! Also, imho, the damper mode is a must.

[1Sascha]

49 minutes ago, Volans said:

Enjoy them! Also, imho, the damper mode is a must.

Yes, yes... it's not like I haven't thought about it... ?

 

But I think I'll see first how I like them without the dampener and also use its absence as a replacement-excuse for sucking in a dogfight. After all: Can't blame my twisty axis any more for that...

 

Plus I gotta figure out a way to not push myself all over the room on this hard floor. Already got a set of coasters and rubber-pads for that, since the casters on my chair can't be locked.

 

BTW: Mine came with (I think) the number 5 cam pre-installed, which seems pretty progressive towards the end of travel. Before I break out the Allen-key again: Is cam 4 more linear and which one is better suited for WW2 era planes?

 

 

S.

Edited May 4, 2022 by 1Sascha

[dburne]

1 hour ago, 1Sascha said:

Yes, yes... it's not like I haven't thought about it... ?

 

But I think I'll see first how I like them without the dampener and also use its absence as a replacement-excuse for sucking in a dogfight. After all: Can't blame my twisty axis any more for that...

 

Plus I gotta figure out a way to not push myself all over the room on this hard floor. Already got a set of coasters and rubber-pads for that, since the casters on my chair can't be locked.

 

BTW: Mine came with (I think) the number 5 cam pre-installed, which seems pretty progressive towards the end of travel. Before I break out the Allen-key again: Is cam 4 more linear and which one is better suited for WW2 era planes?

 

 

S.

 

You can get locking castors for your chair, that is what I did and best thing I did for this chair. Got tired of rolling around every time I depress the pedal.

[unlikely_spider]

50 minutes ago, dburne said:

 

You can get locking castors for your chair, that is what I did and best thing I did for this chair. Got tired of rolling around every time I depress the pedal.

Yes, @1Saschayou should be able to change the wheels if your office chair is like most that I've seen. I got some from Amazon that are like rubber roller blade wheels with locks. A must have for rudder pedal use, imo.

Edited May 4, 2022 by unlikely_spider

[1Sascha]

I got a set of plastic "cups" or coasters meant for this size wheels and anti-skid rubber pads to glue to them... two of those should be enough (in my experience) to stop a chair from rolling around when you're using pedals. It's a bit clunky to remove them every time you do want your chair to roll around, but they'll do their job.. I hope.

 

Picked them up at a regular HW-/DIY-place for relatively cheap:

 

 

I'm not sure this chair has standardized mounting holes for its casters, so I don't want to order stuff willy-nilly, hoping it'll fit.

 

However: I found this with the 3D-printer/sim racing crowd:

 

But their store seems to be broken at the moment. Which is fine, since what I have already is basically the same thing and probably not much more or less of a hassle to install/remove.

 

Used to be that, at least at Ikea, you could get those "sliders" instead of casters for your office chair. Looked like stubby little legs. Those weren't only cheaper, but so much better for us sim-nerds who have pedals under their desks. I wouldn't slide with those even on the hardwood I had back then.

 

*shrug*

 

 

S.

Edited May 4, 2022 by 1Sascha

[dburne]

This is what I got - fairly inexpensive. I got all 5 so they would all be the same , I only have to lock two of them to accomplish what I want. Locks and unlocks very quickly and easily.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08S767S64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[1Sascha]

3 minutes ago, dburne said:

This is what I got - fairly inexpensive. I got all 5 so they would all be the same , I only have to lock two of them to accomplish what I want. Locks and unlocks very quickly and easily.

 

Oh wow... my coasters suddenly developed an inferiority complex. ?

 

Those do look perfect for the job.

 

S.

[dburne]

3 minutes ago, 1Sascha said:

 

Oh wow... my coasters suddenly developed an inferiority complex. ?

 

Those do look perfect for the job.

 

S.

 

Yeah they are and having all 5 locking is convenient as you never know which 2 wheels you may want to lock. So always I have access to easily lock two of the wheels since each wheel is a locking wheel.

[1Sascha]

I just put two under there and they're doing their job too well it seems. Once I sit, I can't move the chair into my seating position without pushing the casters out of those little coasters... lol. Using just one now and even that seems plenty...

 

But at least I can get full deflection now without pushing myself into the wall behind me ...

 

First World problems FTW... ? ? ?

Edited May 4, 2022 by 1Sascha

[easterling77]

1 hour ago, unlikely_spider said:

Yes, @1Saschayou should be able to change the wheels if your office chair is like most that I've seen. I got some from Amazon that are like rubber roller blade wheels with locks. A must have for rudder pedal use, imo.

Yup same here !!!!

 

Was the first thing I purchased after my first set of rudder pedals - it was essential?

 

And the possibilety of swiching on and of for the locks is very convenient I musst say

[unlikely_spider]

4 minutes ago, easterling77 said:

Yup same here !!!!

 

Was the first thing I purchased after my first set of rudder pedals - it was essential?

 

And the possibilety of swiching on and of for the locks is very convenient I musst say

Yep, easy on and off. And I only need to lock 2 of them to keep myself stationary for simming. I got pretty much the same as dburne linked above.

[1Sascha]

Getting back to the MFGs:

 

I'm in the process of setting them up in my games and I'm not quite sure what the recommended/appropriate settings are for IL-2.

 

I did put in a little deadzone around the center, since the pedals don't have a center "notch" and pushing the brakes (at least in the raw data shown in MFG's config software)will generate a little unwanted rudder input (because the physical pedals move rather freely around the center-point). Other than that, I also included a tiny deadzone at the other end(s) of travel, so that I don't have to push the pedals to their physical max to get full deflection in game.

 

But... I'm not sure I'm understanding IL-2 sensitivity setting correctly. Seems to me that I get the highest level of control if I set this thing to 0 percent. At 100, the scale on the testing screen becomes rather coarse plus the curve gets pretty flat around the center but then progressively more steep towards the end of travel. Since I've used completely different pedals before (CH Pro), then a twisty, I'm not sure where to go with these much more precise MFGs. Wouldn't it make sense to have the "finest" level of control, meaning to set this thing to 0 percent to have a totally linear response curve?

 

I'll be more than happy to take suggestions...

 

S.

[dburne]

Yep I have mine set at 0, also with a little dead zone at the extreme ends, and a slight deadzone at center.

[1Sascha]

Thanks!

I think I'm starting to get the hang of these, but it'll take a while to re-learn pedals even after these short few weeks flying twisty. I locked that axis on my Gladiator and I still find myself trying to twist the damn thing when I want to correct the nose at the last second during a guns-pass. My neighbors must be thinking I'm mad ... what with all the curses I've been throwing at myself today... ?

 

 

S.

[dburne]

52 minutes ago, 1Sascha said:

Thanks!

I think I'm starting to get the hang of these, but it'll take a while to re-learn pedals even after these short few weeks flying twisty. I locked that axis on my Gladiator and I still find myself trying to twist the damn thing when I want to correct the nose at the last second during a guns-pass. My neighbors must be thinking I'm mad ... what with all the curses I've been throwing at myself today... ?

 

 

S.

 

Lol you will get it , probably sooner than you think. Way more natural to move the foot pedals than twisting a grip.

[Hoots]

20 hours ago, 1Sascha said:

I guess I can now answer my original question.

 

DPD guy just handed me the package 40 mins ago and now the X-winds are sitting under my desk.

 

 

So... exactly one week from date of order/purchase to delivery to Germany. Not too shabby, I'd say...

 

S.

Ooooohhhh they do look good... And my Saitek ones are positively ancient...

[1Sascha]

26 minutes ago, Hoots said:

Ooooohhhh they do look good... And my Saitek ones are positively ancient...

... having used the Saiteks for a bit, the MFGs are definitely a cut or two (or three) above. Then again: The Saiteks were probably the worst pedals I've ever used, so...

 

OTOH and with only a few hours of experience with these... the MFGs haven't exactly been a revelation compared with my ancient CH Pro Pedals ... yet. Those too were relatively light (that's how I've set the MFGs too for now) and precise enough to do what I needed them to do. Don't get me wrong: The MFG's mechanical action, the precision (both mechanical and electronic) and their adjustability all are worlds better than anything I've had before.

 

I guess what I miss on the MFGs is a little more definition around the center ...  there's no real center notch, more like a center "valley" or dip for the bearing to roll around in, which means I always wonder whether or not I'm giving unwanted input. At least with the CH ones (and the Saiteks too for that matter) there was a clearly defined center position. Very light on the CH pedals, way too strong on my Saiteks, but it was there. Neither of the two cams the MFG comes with have that and I guess only when I get used to this absence (or somehow work around it by, perhaps, adjusting the main spring), will I be able to enjoy these to the fullest.

 

Plus, as stated above, I have to get re-acquainted with pedals in general after a few years of not flying at all, followed by a few weeks with a twisty.

 

S.

[1Sascha]

@dburne Just found your posts from last year on the dampening kit, and while I'm not sure I want to order even more sim-hardware just yet, it's kinda hard to resist. Plus the "real" reason I'd order it is that I only now found about Milan offering a softer main-spring. I feel like the default one on mine is a bit on the stiff side, even if I reduce its pre-tension to minimum.

 

I also found some other older posts regarding cams and I guess I'll stick with the default #6 one for now. I actually like a little center-detent (I know it's not "realistic", but what is when it comes to this hobby where we're sitting at our desks, flying in socks? ). From what I gather, #4 has even less of a "notch" at the center and is supposedly more progressive /hard to push towards the end of travel?

 

But I feel that a softer spring *might* do the trick for me or at least bring me closer to what I want. And since I don't want to order just a single spring from MFG, I might as well go with the dampener. Not that I'd see how it would dramatically alter the feel or handling of the pedals, which is overall pretty incredible already, but everyone and their grandma seem to have nothing but praise for that kit.

 

S.

[dburne]

4 minutes ago, 1Sascha said:

@dburne Just found your posts from last year on the dampening kit, and while I'm not sure I want to order even more sim-hardware just yet, it's kinda hard to resist. Plus the "real" reason I'd order it is that I only now found about Milan offering a softer main-spring. I feel like the default one on mine is a bit on the stiff side, even if I reduce its pre-tension to minimum.

 

I also found some other older posts regarding cams and I guess I'll stick with the default #6 one for now. I actually like a little center-detent (I know it's not "realistic", but what is when it comes to this hobby where we're sitting at our desks, flying in socks? ). From what I gather, #4 has even less of a "notch" at the center and is supposedly more progressive /hard to push towards the end of travel?

 

But I feel that a softer spring *might* do the trick for me or at least bring me closer to what I want. And since I don't want to order just a single spring from MFG, I might as well go with the dampener. Not that I'd see how it would dramatically alter the feel or handling of the pedals, which is overall pretty incredible already, but everyone and their grandma seem to have nothing but praise for that kit.

 

S.

 

Yeah I got the softer spring when I got my damper kit, I really like it.