Iron mechanic (Throttle) motor control (axes)

[GVL224]

The extended lever "Cougar"

 

[Frans42000]

 

 

Just got my Left handed GVL throttle today.  I got a copy of the "GA-Twin" design.

 

So far everything is working for me in DCS. 

The T2 and T3 rockers stick a little when pushed toward the down side, but I am hopeful they will break in after some use.  But over all, this thing is a lot more sturdy than I had expected.  The case is a black plastic with a metal laminate on both surfaces.  I had thought they were a rigid plastic only from the photos.  The mini stick is nice and supple without too much spring tension fighting you trying to recenter it.  And to be honest, I am not sure what I will do with the two smaller axis levers since I do not really fly full realism prop sims. But it is very nice to have the option.

 

If you are a left handed sim pilot like I am, this thing is a dream.

 

I'm using Vjoy and Joystick Gremlin to tweak it and as far as I know, those are the preferred software options for configuring one of GVL's throttles?

Edited January 4, 2020 by Frans42000

[GVL224]

6 часов назад, Frans42000 сказал:

 

 

 

 

I'm using Vjoy and Joystick Gremlin to tweak it and as far as I know, those are the preferred software options for programming one of GVL's throttles?

The controller that I use does not require a program to configure it, it may require a "mapper" (or a similar program) when using more than 32 buttons, Windows restriction.

[Sokol1]

IL-2 Bo"X" see up to 64 buttons, DCS up to 128 without need "keymapper". They don't follow the obsolete Windows Game Controllers 32 buttons limit.

 

Joystick Gremlin is the best/powerful free "keymapper" software available, in some ways similar to Thrustmaster TARGET (exclusive for their controllers).

Edited January 4, 2020 by Sokol1

[LukeFF]

Although it's a more simple program, SVMapper also works well. I use it for a couple of commands with GVL224's controllers, including the F1 - F12 keys. If your controller has POV inputs, it also comes in handy, IL2 for some reason doesn't recognize keys mapped to a POV button on a GVL224 controller inside the game. 

[GVL224]

KIT "Ataman"

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcekGQ7uwLY&t=195s

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g05N3bi63U&t=91s

[Remontti]

Got some problems with my Rud 4X4 throttle. The buttons on throttle handle would only work when the throttle is at certain positions.

 

I opened the throttle unit and had look inside. The 10-pin wire from throttle handle had some damage at the base of lever. One wire out of 10 had nasty looking cut. It was almost cut to two pieces. I decided to fix the wire.

 

But damn it. The bloody wire runs inside the lever and it has pop rivets (now if someone didn't know, pop rivets are devils invention). After hour of drilling, cutting and hammering I get the rivets open. I disassemble the main lever to access the wire. I cut out the damaged part and soldered a new piece of wire to it. Took me the whole evening but now the throttle is assembled and working ok again. And I replaced the pop rivets with regular bolts.

 

But Vitalij, please. No more pop rivets. They are such PIA to remove especially with such expensive equipment that you want handle with care.

I'm not sure what caused the wire to break but there was sharp edge at base of the lever where the side parts open up to make more room to the wiring. Maybe that made the cut to the wire. I filed the sharp edge and it is smooth now.

 

Just to let you know. 

Edited February 3, 2020 by Remontti
*typos

[GVL224]

03.02.2020 в 23:42, Remontti сказал:

Got some problems with my Rud 4X4 throttle. The buttons on throttle handle would only work when the throttle is at certain positions.

 

I opened the throttle unit and had look inside. The 10-pin wire from throttle handle had some damage at the base of lever. One wire out of 10 had nasty looking cut. It was almost cut to two pieces. I decided to fix the wire.

 

But damn it. The bloody wire runs inside the lever and it has pop rivets (now if someone didn't know, pop rivets are devils invention). After hour of drilling, cutting and hammering I get the rivets open. I disassemble the main lever to access the wire. I cut out the damaged part and soldered a new piece of wire to it. Took me the whole evening but now the throttle is assembled and working ok again. And I replaced the pop rivets with regular bolts.

 

But Vitalij, please. No more pop rivets. They are such PIA to remove especially with such expensive equipment that you want handle with care.

I'm not sure what caused the wire to break but there was sharp edge at base of the lever where the side parts open up to make more room to the wiring. Maybe that made the cut to the wire. I filed the sharp edge and it is smooth now.

 

Just to let you know. 

Yes, in the first series of blocks with a large number of wires in the growl, one or more wires break (rub) in the place where the wires exit the lever in the lower part of the lever.
Now I slightly bend the place where the wires exit the lever so that the sharp edge of the metal does not rub through the wires. I divide the cable of wires into separate wires at the place of exit from the rod and 3 centimeters in different directions, so the wire is bent more gently. I lubricate the wires with thick silicone grease (petroleum jelly) at the point of exit from the lever, so the wires slip better and do not rub.

To replace the loop, it is not necessary to disassemble the lever, when assembling, I insert the wires into the already assembled lever.

It will be necessary to shoot a video on installing a loop in the mechanics ...

[Remontti]

2 hours ago, GVL224 said:

...To replace the loop, it is not necessary to disassemble the lever, when assembling, I insert the wires into the already assembled lever.

It will be necessary to shoot a video on installing a loop in the mechanics ...

Ah... Makes sense. I didn't have a tool to remove / attach connector to the wire. That's why I needed to open up the lever itself.

[GVL224]

assembly video by the customer of my kit without electronics
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYMFBAMcLis&t=37s

[GVL224]

Mechanics "FLAP", mechanics 4 engines.

 

 

[GVL224]

 

[GVL224]

 

[Marvel]

Hello GVL224, fantastic jobs!! Very interesting! Wich kind of potentiometers do you use in your flaps mechanism? How do you adjust the notches with the various flaps and potentiometer positions?

 

Ciao!

 

M

[GVL224]

1 час назад, Marvel сказал:

Hello GVL224, fantastic jobs!! Very interesting! Wich kind of potentiometers do you use in your flaps mechanism? How do you adjust the notches with the various flaps and potentiometer positions?

I don't use potentiometers.
A non-contact multi-turn magnetic sensor is used.
The stops "afterburner" and "low throttle" are not adjustable, they took the dimensions of the displacements on the real handle from the MiG-29 as a basis.

[Marvel]

On 11/17/2020 at 9:42 AM, GVL224 said:

I don't use potentiometers.
A non-contact multi-turn magnetic sensor is used.
The stops "afterburner" and "low throttle" are not adjustable, they took the dimensions of the displacements on the real handle from the MiG-29 as a basis.

 

Thanks for reply, mate! Could you suggest some non-contact multi-turn mag sensor, please?

Ciao!

 

M

[Sokol1]

For multi-steep flaps lever is used MagREZ (KMZ41) assembly by... GVL224.

 

 

Probable this axis need be divided in bands (e.g. Joystick Gremlin) and send multiple keypress for the game.

Operation depends too on how flaps are modeled in game, if the plane have multiple positions in the flaps, many don't have.

[Marvel]

11 hours ago, Sokol1 said:

For multi-steep flaps lever is used MagREZ (KMZ41) assembly by... GVL224.

 

 

Probable this axis need be divided in bands (e.g. Joystick Gremlin) and send multiple keypress for the game.

Operation depends too on how flaps are modeled in game, if the plane have multiple positions in the flaps, many don't have.

 

Thanks for info Sokol. Basically is a Komaroff magnetic sensor, isn't it? I believe is very similar to AS5600 Hall sensor I using at the moment.

But in which way is possible to set it for stepped position flaps?

 

Ciao!

 

M

[GVL224]

Sokol showed the mechanics with my MagRez sensor, this sensor can be set to a maximum of + -39 deg (78 deg total stroke).
The multi-turn sensor is made by Komaroff, if I don't confuse it, then its sensors can understand up to 5 full revolutions.
But its sensors are digital, but nongo has an adapter for connecting to an analog controller.
It has a small feature, after each connection it is necessary to move the handle from stop to stop so that the sensor understands the range of movements.

[Sokol1]

7 hours ago, Marvel said:

But in which way is possible to set it for stepped position flaps?

 

For example, with FreeJoy controller (STM32F103) you can divide an axis in 10 "bands" and set each of this band for press a different button.

Can do this via software with Joystick Gremlin.

 

But, this kind of flap control is useful for some FS, X-Plane, maybe for some DCS modules, but not for IL-2:GB, there the flaps accept only 2 buttons (up/down) commands.

 

Komaroff sensor require a specific USB controller (Kreml I think).

 

 

[Marvel]

On 11/20/2020 at 4:29 PM, Sokol1 said:

 

For example, with FreeJoy controller (STM32F103) you can divide an axis in 10 "bands" and set each of this band for press a different button.

Can do this via software with Joystick Gremlin.

 

But, this kind of flap control is useful for some FS, X-Plane, maybe for some DCS modules, but not for IL-2:GB, there the flaps accept only 2 buttons (up/down) commands.

 

Komaroff sensor require a specific USB controller (Kreml I think).

 

 

 

Ah, ok, thanks for explanation, Sokol! ?

Ciao!

 

M

[GVL224]

 

Edited December 25, 2020 by GVL224

[GVL224]

 

[GVL224]

 

[Soarfeat]

Cool !!! Nothing better than watching throttle maestro ( Vitaly ) working his magic with of course his infamous theme song. 

Great stuff !!! 

Thanks Vitaly !! 

[GVL224]

 

[GVL224]