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Posted (edited)

I've always been annoyed with the various trim wheel solutions so i got a bee in my bonnet to build it using the Authentikit plans.

This really came from a cost analysis in comparing it to other ready made 3d solutions that didn't really fit what I want.

 

Finally I decided on the p51 Pedastal as I love the size of the elevator wheel.

 

I got a 3d printer in December and have been slowly learning that.

I ordered the parts from Sim kit supplies and received those as well.

 

I did a bunch of different test printing and in late December started printing the pedastal parts.

Ive assembled most of it and am close to testing so I will share the overall experience and share some pictures for those that might want to try it out.

 

Stay tuned.

https://authentikit.org/p51d/

 

image.jpeg

 

 

3D printer info

 

Do your research here and plan your space. I decided to put it in my office to keeps kids hands off of it and then measured it out but i ended up with a large printer and the desk i bought didnt end up working. The printer plate moves back and forth front to back so it needs a much larger space then the base. The desk was cheap on Black friday so im using it for more counter space in the office as well.

 

I got an Anycubic Kobra Max after a lot of research online, comparing prices and trying to future proof myself. It has a really large build size and one thing Ive learned is to spend the extra if I think im going to like it. I really dislike having to upgrade things quickly once i realize i need something more so I tend to overbuy. YMMV. The build size can print a full size wearable helmet.

 

The PRUSA printer and Creality printers seem as good or maybe even better but I wanted the build size and auto leveling bed. 

 

I typically do a lot of shopping for price and look everywhere, find a good price point and wait until its on sale. Because it was Black Friday I found it on ebay for 35% off with free shipping which made it a comparable price to smaller printers at regular price.

 

There is a lot of options here so this is really one of those important moments to do your research. Things like PLA and other supplies will be easier to replace and/or upgrade but this is a foundational point of the journey.

 

Nozzle size, build plate size, leveling and other factors are important to consider.

Edited by CosmiC10R
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  • Upvote 3
Posted (edited)

USB hub

 

You need to print and wire the USB. Here are some images. 

 

hub1.jpg

hub2.jpg

hub3.jpg

Some images of the pieces printing

print1.jpg

pritn2.jpg

print3.jpg

i finished it up today and the axis and buttons are registering in windows.

More to come

 

final1.jpg

Edited by CosmiC10R
  • Like 7
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Posted (edited)

A quick update, There is a discord available if you want to join it.

Lots of discussion in there.

 

I have it all printed but I havent mounted it, used the software, got it working in game and then flown with it as Ive had to travel for work and its a little hectic right now and I have to custom cut the wood to mount so I will be updating the thread more once I get that done in the next month.

 

After that I will detail more of the process, my many failures in figuring out how to do it and some tips.

 

I will likely have some of the Mosquito throttle printed hopefully as well. Im having a lot of problems with my first layer on that.

 

A few notes on the sequence of events to get to the point of printing the throttle

 

1) Find your printer - Do your research here. Important step

2) Order some PLA, I used Amazon as I have Prime and its fast. Generally Esun, polymaker are good choices

3)Do some test printing, There are lots of cool things to print to get your feet wet. I started with a few of the standard benchmarks and then went to tool trays, peg board tool holders, a couple of gifts for friends etc to get comfortable before I started the pedastal

4)Choose on your PLA to actually print the piece you want, Color and type, I went for Army Green PLA +. Buy Extra. I bought two spools to be sure and needed one and a half because its so large plus there will be some failure and now I cant find it for less then 68$ a spool. The pedastal is quite large.

5 ) Get really comfortable with all the slicer settings in Cura before you begin the print

 

Give yourself lots of time. I think it was about 2-3 weeks before I started printing the throttle. The big pieces take 30 hours to print so it needs to be someplace it wont be disturbed for awhile.

 

Authentikit provides all the plans free, there is great documentation in PDF and all the files are free. The startup cost is the printer, pla and the hardware which they provide all the product numbers for if you want to source yourself or you can order ready made kits for each build via their partner SimKitSupplies out of the UK. I ordered mine and received it quickly. Order this early so it has time to get you while you are doing your test printing. Each kit has all the required parts and they also have Standard kits with all the various pieces as well as top up kits to resupply certain portions of the main construction kit. Its all very slick.

 

I ordered the p51 pedastal kit as well as contruction kit 1 and 2 as well as the Universal hub part 1 plus the Hub extender which gives you the 10 rj45 ports you need. Its done this way for easy of use. The USB kit comes with the board that you wire which plugs into the pc with a standard printer cable and the PC automatically recognizes it as a joystick controller.

The p51 kit even comes with the stickers seen here and not applied. I didnt have them on above.

 

 

 

p51sticker.jpg

Edited by CosmiC10R
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Flying_Colander
Posted

Mate,

Thanks for sharing the pix. Building the gear is as fun as flying. The burnt sugar smell of warm PLA will cling to you forever now that you've made a beautiful first project...

Posted
37 minutes ago, Flying_Colander said:

Mate,

Thanks for sharing the pix. Building the gear is as fun as flying. The burnt sugar smell of warm PLA will cling to you forever now that you've made a beautiful first project...

No problem. The goal here is to hopefully motivate others to try and maybe save a few of the mistakes I made but really to detail how accessible it really is.

I have some technical skill and am moderately competent but ive never done wiring etc on this level. Ive built my own pc but not anything much beyond that. 

So I started off with no real knowledge but followed the instructions carefully and was able to do it based on how well its setup for others to build.

Its actually specifically built to make it more accessible in that the tolerances dont need to be perfect and if you print the calibration tool and test it against the bearings and sensor you can tell it will print with the correct tolerances to come together.

 

The guys over there are mad scientists. There are a ton of the planes done, more in the works and its all replica level.

 

This is the construction kit 1 and 2. One is sensors etc and two is the screws.

 

20230120_121334.jpg

20230120_121344.jpg

and here is the internal wiring of the pedastal

 

20230110_163215.jpg

  • Like 3
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Posted

Very nicely done!

 

Id love a P51 trim box as well, but I had so much trouble with Qidi 3D printer we have, I’m loathe to try a 30 hour printing job. 

Flying_Colander
Posted

Cosmic, I too find wiring and electronics the least fun of the simpit-building skill sets. The gents at Authentikit go the extra mile by making step by step assembly videos. They are generous, patient and, in no small measure, completely bonkers. Bless'm. They've brought a lot of aerojoy into the world.

 

Kiss, fiddly with a 3D printer is maddening. I saved up and bought a top notch printer and after spending three careful days assembling it, it failed to boot. A thermo-something or other was already crapped out. They sent a new one right away. I have found that a good first layer is the actual base for a successful print. A trick a pro gave to me was brush on ordinary white glue diluted with water. For me it is better than glue stick or hair spray. 30 hours is a daunting task. Check that your filament out sensor actually pauses the print before starting. My sensor dry printed for some time before I noticed. No rescuing that print. Good luck.

Posted
45 minutes ago, Flying_Colander said:

Cosmic, I too find wiring and electronics the least fun of the simpit-building skill sets. The gents at Authentikit go the extra mile by making step by step assembly videos. They are generous, patient and, in no small measure, completely bonkers. Bless'm. They've brought a lot of aerojoy into the world.

 

Kiss, fiddly with a 3D printer is maddening. I saved up and bought a top notch printer and after spending three careful days assembling it, it failed to boot. A thermo-something or other was already crapped out. They sent a new one right away. I have found that a good first layer is the actual base for a successful print. A trick a pro gave to me was brush on ordinary white glue diluted with water. For me it is better than glue stick or hair spray. 30 hours is a daunting task. Check that your filament out sensor actually pauses the print before starting. My sensor dry printed for some time before I noticed. No rescuing that print. Good luck.

Thanks!

 

Ill try the diluted white glue trick (PVA glue I’m guessing). I’m actually thinking about a BambuLabs Carbon printer. I usually have a skirt/brim printed before starting the firs layer so there’s no dry printing (usually).
 

What I have problems with is the mid-print spaghetti, which probably has to do with initial layer not fully sticking (at least partially), and even worse, nozzle clogs that completely cakes and covers the nozzle with PLA. So any print job that takes longer than the workday is pretty much a wing and a prayer for lack of a better term. 

Posted (edited)

The guys over at ATK are awesome. I needed a mounting wedge with some countersunk screw holes and the guys sent me the file right away.

 

There are so many different controls to print with more coming! There is an IL2 thread on the discord too and the guys are doing bf109 controls as well. 

 

@kissTheSky Ive been having a lot of problems with this first layer and it looks like I just got a good one on a 25 hour print for the mosquito throttle. I had to dial down the z offset, drop the nozzle temp and slow down the the print speed on the first layer.

 

I have an Anycubic Kobra Max and Im not familiar with your brand but it was really finding good settings for this PLA which is apparently 10 degrees cooler then the last stuff I was using.

Edited by CosmiC10R
  • Upvote 1
Flying_Colander
Posted

Slowing down the speed is a good tip. I dial down  the first couple layer printing by 25%. Once everything looks reasonable, I let the snail of the leash. I have never experienced a spaghetti snarl during my prints. Cosmic's caution on the heat seems logical. Double check your print head fan is working. 

 

FC

  • Upvote 1
Posted (edited)

My troubleshooting flow has been

 

-Search for the problem on google and read the causes , then choose one or two causes that are the most likely. 

-Level the bed

-Apply changes in Cura and start the initial layer 

-Monitor initial layer to see consistency

-Cancel if bad and start above again or if good proceed

 

Just finishing up the first batch of the Mosquito throttle files.ATK provides batchs so its usually 8-10 batches of print with all the parts by color and infill density.

The last set of changes worked but it took me 5 initial layers to get it right.

 

Edit- Successfully completed, 28hrs 2 mins

 

20230122_132114.jpg

Edited by CosmiC10R
Posted

Being old school Ive done the quadarant in aluminium off TJ,s CAD plans.Just joined discord to get some of the accessories to fit it out.Eventually after I finish a MkV Spitfire build for a customer Ill proceed with the full P51 cockpit.

81147742_2921782797844306_527079138184396800_o.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Thanks for your support for AuthentiKit @CosmiC10R. I know some folks are nervous of 3D printing so I'm really pleased that we've finally got a scheme going where community members will print for others at mates rates. We're calling it the Community Approved Printing (CAP) scheme and all the guys doing the printing are experienced AuthentiKit/printing guys. Here's the kind of quality for the pedestal trim wheels for example, this version printed in two colour PLA. 

 

There are two guys in the States now and as an example for the price, they'll currently print everything you need to get going with a fully functional P-51D throttle for $99 + postage. More info here https://authentikit.org/p51-winter24/

x.thumb.jpg.00a8c6ba13fae4450370614eb2234ccf.jpg

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Posted

Oh my! That is a huge service. I am tempted, even though I haven’t booted the game in months. 

Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, kissTheSky said:

Oh my! That is a huge service. I am tempted, even though I haven’t booted the game in months. 

You don't know how pleased I am with that response. I've spent months trying to find efficiencies in the printing process, simplify various designs and negotiate with the printing guys to come up with something that would appeal to the mainstream flight sim community.  

Edited by Spit40
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Been following Authentikit since the beginning and can't recommend them highly enough. It's been great fun - I've printed most of the stuff - and I've learnt a lot. Started with an Ender 3D Pro, but have now upgraded to a Bambulab P1S. Nothing wrong at all with the Ender, it's absolutely ok for Authentikit prints, but the Bambulab is a big step up both in quality and speed. Because of Authentikit I have begun learning FreeCad and am able to make useful things for around the house as well as cluttering up the room with throttles and trim wheels! For me the Mosquito controls are the bees knee's - there's more on the way and I'm looking forward to getting them.

Authentikit states that the aim is to make assembly as easy as possible and something that can be done on a kitchen table - so there's no glue, no cutting, no soldering... all you need is the parts, the fixings, good eyes and patience. Oh, and a good film for the wife to watch while you're doing Authentikit stuff. ?

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Posted

Unfortunately I get more and more drawn into co-ordinating stuff so even though i'm very keen to do a stick i've not got very far on it yet. The bf109 is being done by someone else. He actually has a few things that aren't yet released as AuthentiKit because they're not 100% compliant yet - a stick is amongst them. Join our Discord if you're keen to get it asap. Progress should pick up when i release my SDK and training videos to help others build controls. 

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