[Looking for Info] DIY T16000m mod

[FTC_ChilliBalls]

Hi guys,

 

I´ve been playing around with the thought of putting custom grips on top of the T16000m base for quite a while now, 

but I´ve always struggled with the fundamental basics of DIY electronic stuff. I´ve already worked on a 3D model of the KG13,

but I´m quite clueless on how to actually get the internals to work.

 

Given that it would be quite less intensive investment of time and resources,

I´ve wondered whether it was possible to basically piggyback the T16000m base in some way,

perhaps with connecting new buttons to either the cables that run upwards into the original stick,

or by connecting them to its board.

 

But what do you guys think? Is this at all possible?

Or would I need to create a completely different device which only turns the gimbal inside the T16000M base by a physical connection?

If so, could you perhaps provide me with some insight into how I would do this?

[Sokol1]

Easy peasy.

 

Inside T.16000M grip there is no electronic circuit (like are in more complex grips, eg. Warthog, VKB, VirPil...), so it's just a matter of connecting the existing wires to the buttons of your new grip (KG-13), what IRL have 4 buttons.

 

The wiring that runs up for the grip through the pole hole allows you to connect

 

- four momentary buttons

- one 8-way POV HAT.

 

But you can leave some wires not connected to buttons if want, since the buttons are always OFF circuit, e.g. don't use the POV HAT wires, since KG-13 grip don't have "HAT's".

 

Note that three wires are for the twist rudder potentiometer, don't mix this wires with buttons/HATs wires.

 

BTW - Use the original cables for you new grip buttons, the circuit board connections for wires is very fragile (cheap), avoid manipulate this part or wires may detach.

 

Here picture of inside the grip, just cut - or better desolder; the wires that goes for the POV HAT PCB (after take not of where what wire color goes):

 

Are 9 wires, one is common for all 8 buttons, 4 on grip and 4 on POV HAT.

 

 

 

Edited September 17, 2021 by Sokol1

[FTC_ChilliBalls]

Thanks a lot for this explanation, I´ve in the meantime found these pictures on this forum

https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4569562/thrustmaster-t16000m-trigger-repair: 

 

 

 

According to the author of the forum post, the hat switch actually is also only 4 buttons,

so to me that indicates that I could technically just piggyback the board by soldering cables to it.

 

I´m thinking of putting an aluminium tube extension onto the T16000m base and putting the board of the original grip into a box from on its bottom.

From this I would have wiring going through the tube and perhaps even put a connector on top so I could potentially have several different grips.

But this is future me speaking, at first I would have to get the basics working.

 

10 hours ago, Sokol1 said:

Are 9 wires, one is common for all 8 buttons, 4 on grip and 4 on POV HAT.

 

Could you perhaps elaborate what you mean by that? Especially with the 1 that's common for all?

[Sokol1]

I don't see reason for this "pigback" - keep the PCB with HAT inside a box, this don't have any function.

 

Just desolder the wires in J1 and use the buttons you whant, eg. 1 to 4.

>

Quote

>>>Are 9 wires, one is common for all 8 buttons, 4 on grip and 4 on POV HAT.

Could you perhaps elaborate what you mean by that? Especially with the 1 that's common for all?

 

This:

 

[Sokol1]

An example for KG13-A wiring - but simplified:

 

 

Probable the illustrated double screw bar connectors is too big for fit inside the box - neither is really necessary, just solder stick base wires in grip wires.

Anyway with a bit of DIY creativity this connect can be used, somewhat replicating the original screw scheme- just for aesthetics (of course):

 

 

For KG13-A grip there's no connection between A button and # 5 pin.

 

 

Edited September 19, 2021 by Sokol1

[FTC_ChilliBalls]

@Sokol1 Thank you again for all the help.

I have one more question if you don't mind.

 

Would it be possible to use the potentiometres in the stick and base as well in another configuration?

i.e. if I wanted to build a stick with a wheel for zoom etc?

Or perhaps a button box with a wheel for a flaps etc?   

[Sokol1]

T.16000M has a tridimensional HALL sensor for X, Y axes and conventional (B type, 100k) potentiometer for throttle slider and twist rudder axes.

 

The USB controller don't accept more axes (is 4), but you can reuse the throttle slider and/or twist potentiometer for other function, or even replace then with an more convenient potentiometer (need be linear taper (B), 100K), for example, that make more easy fit a trim wheel, or a multi-turn (~3 turn) potentiometer (good for trim).

[FTC_ChilliBalls]

On 9/22/2021 at 5:49 AM, Sokol1 said:

T.16000M has a tridimensional HALL sensor for X, Y axes and conventional (B type, 100k) potentiometer for throttle slider and twist rudder axes.

 

The USB controller don't accept more axes (is 4), but you can reuse the throttle slider and/or twist potentiometer for other function, or even replace then with an more convenient potentiometer (need be linear taper (B), 100K), for example, that make more easy fit a trim wheel, or a multi-turn (~3 turn) potentiometer (good for trim).

Concerning potentiometers, AFAIK they work by changing the voltage with a variable resistor,

does this somehow limit my intention to put the potentiometers on longer cables like the buttons or do I not need to worry about this?

 

Thanks again for your answers, they're much appreciated.? 

[Sokol1]

Yes, long cables should be avoided because they act like a antenna picking electric noise, what result in spikes in axis response.

 

anyway, since today is easy and cheap have an USB joystick controller using a Arduino PRO Micro (<$10) and free MMJoy2 firmware, instead use long cables consider use another USB controller for the other devices.

 

A detail that I forget, X,Y axes of T.16000M has 14-15 bits of resolution, but throttles slider and twist rudder axes is only 8 bits of resolution.