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Sokol1

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About Sokol1

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  1. I think this is the ideal solution for game controls - that don't work like IRL*, could be done with the use of an (MON)-OFF-(MON) switch. If use use a ON-OFF switch, like original in the drawings, in game will be need turn switch ON for enable water injection, turn OFF (what don't send command for game) and turn ON again for disable. Awkward. Can modify the original switch drawing internally for became momentary switch only in middle of course or an ON-OF switch in both ends. Or use a keymapper software for switch press an key in ON and OFF state (JoyToKey, SVMapper, Joystick Gremlin...) *IRL the switch enable/disable a electric current for water injection circuit, game use only change state, an key press turn ON, the same keypress turn OFF.
  2. Try "brute force". Open (with Notepad) the file "Current.actions" - in ... Sturmovik\Data\Input\ And exchange axes names in this lines: rpc_wheel_brakes_left, joy#_axis_x, 0| // Left wheel brakes rpc_wheel_brakes_right, joy#_axis_y, 0| // Right wheel brakes "joy#" can be joy1, joy2... etc. leave as is.
  3. This Hall sensor "potentiomer" is OK for use in a rudder, since is linear (is not a switch) and use analog (3 wires) connection, but has an issue. Is a 360º model or have a "effective electric angle" in 360º, since your pedal angular movement will be not 360º but ~30/40º means that you don't have 0-5V variation, and so less resolution from USB controller, e..g if is an BU0836 12 bits, you achieve around 5 bits. Can deal with this adding pulley of gear for make sensor turn 360º with the pedal angular movement, a complicated thing. Instead I suggest use a Bi-Tech 6127 series Hall sensor, that have different "electric effective angle" options - from 30º to 360º. For pedal get a 45º or 60º model. Example - (60º) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/6127V1A60L.5/987-1391-ND/2620660 Or if you have issues for buy from Digikey and prefer Aliexpress, there you have a contacless option, made for joystick use: Ready to use TLE-5010 (kit include the needed Neodymium magnet) Need a compatible USB controller, e.g. a $ 5 Arduino PRO Micro flashed with MMjoy2 Firmware.
  4. VKB Gladiator KG-12A (Bf 109 lookalike) grip has one physical button less than T.16000M: 3 buttons +POV HAT x 4 buttons +POV HAT (T.16000M). But since Gladiator has one button under little finger can be used as "shift" for the two top buttons and POV HAT, what give more 6 virtual buttons. So "less is more". :)) Counting base buttons both sticks have 16 buttons + POV HAT and four axes, Gladiator use contactless sensor in X, Y and twist axis, T.16000m in X.Y only.
  5. Sokol1

    MicroProse

    B-24 yoke frame has a "Y" shape, B-17 yoke an "T", like in drawings. Other detail, B-17 windscreen is in two pieces - forming a "V" like in drawings, B-24 windscreen is in 3 pieces. But after that "Lego" P-51 showed by Microprose, this drawings can be anything. 🤣
  6. Ideally you need fix MFG's over a wood sheet or similar, or bolt in some kind of "cockpit" (Obutto, etc), or they can tilt and/or slide over floor, since you keep foots over most time.
  7. T.16000M twist (yaw) use a CTS plastic potentiometer in a plastic mechanism, what with use develop play and apply pressure on potentiometer pole, what affect potentiometer wiper contacts, causing spikes. This issue is common to entry level joysticks.
  8. The major diference is VirPil pedal being made all in metal and MFG in composite material. Other than this they are very similar, 12 bits axes resolution, contactless sensor, bearings in pivots, CAM center system - dual CAM in VKB, one CAM in MFG. MFG seems have more adjust options (width, inclination, spring tension). VirPil is relatively new on market (MFG has almost 10 years), but they are an enhanced version of the renowned BRD pedals.
  9. You have luck, if I order this stick from VKB EU, I have to pay more 105% of local fees above price plus shipping cost , will end costing more than €200. 😩 Bellow Gladiator Mk.II the only option that worth buy is Thrustmaster T.16000M, because use contactless hall Hall sensor in X and Y axis, but conventional potentiometer (like you 3D PRO) in twist axis and axis is the first thing to goes south (I have only and after 6 mounts of moderate use twist became spike). Google for: "reddit/hotas t.16000m twist issue" Anyway cost around ~$60 (Amazon.com price).
  10. Best buy in this price range is VKB Gladiator Mk.II - €77,69 (VKB EU) Contacless sensor in X, Y and twist rudder axis. Throttle disk on left side (conventinal pot) 16 buttons, plus POV HAT Grip - a KG-12A (Bf 109 grip) lookalike has only 3 buttons, but one being "shift" allow you use more 6 virtual buttons, 2 in top button and trigger and 4 in HAT. Their only CON is the POV HAT placement, is the "button" on left side, not much ergonomic but is usable. Another nice feature, (optionally) can upgrade their grip for VKB SGC Kosmosima grip, whit an adapter kit.
  11. Electronics was not changed, is the same of Saitek Throttle Quadrant: potentiometers (so, so) and USB controller. Only the top of levers was changed.
  12. Yes, rear fuselage, wings and even entire ailerons and rudder falling of in combat flight games is very gamey, but I guess a standard among most players. CloD originally have good DM for some planes, e.g. Bf 110 but poor for others, e.g. Hurricane, CR-42, Do-17 rear fuselage surgical cut off. DCS has been promising a new DM at years and nothing to see. This Fw 190 loosing wing in gun-cam is their cannon ammo box exploding after being hit, probable by cannon. IL-2 Bo'X' now has a similar effect.
  13. This picture show some problems: You say that "USB analog" is a rudder pedal, a device that need 3 axes in USB controller. But have a controller with 13 buttons and 8 axes - so the 5 axes unused are "hanging" in the air, with you see all crazy in the test screen, and when go to game controls UI assign some command this spurious signals are detected first and prevent you type or press another button. First, try do the Windows calibration for you "USB analog", may this help a bit. If not, this "USB analog" suggest that you pedal have a Arduino with generic HID sketch as firmware, inappropriate for the use in pedal. If you did the flash in Arduino, try edit this sketch leaving only 3 axes and flash again, or if buy this pedal ask for the guy that make. Can identify what Ardunio was used (if is the case)?
  14. Sokol1

    Gun Cam

    IMHO - This is not practical, you end with several 1/2 seconds clips. See, with a gamey real time replay:
  15. I see in the Russian side of this forum an guy using a diamond checkered rubber mat, seems used for shoes repair, but don't get the name of material. The guy use hot air gun for mold material over the grip (in the case VKB Gladiator lookalike KG-12A), a length process, and after glue. The only other case of DIY checkered is in grip in SimHQ forum, a cast metal replica of KG-13B receive a checkered surface, but the guy only show the result, but don't tell the "secret" neither the material used.
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