Plastic Modelers in the IL-2 Community

[Matt]

Some Y-Wing progress. Pretty happy with the chipping this time. Rear fuselage will get a brighter coat. Didn't do much to the cockpit, only painted some instruments and applied generous dry brushing. It will be almost hidden anyway.

Next main tasks are painting the pilot (not sure which one i'll use) and masking and painting the canopy. 

 

Except for the yellow which is from Vallejo, i only used my new Gunze colors. They are a dream to spray with 50-70% leveling thinner. But it's a nightmare to clean the airbrush afterwards. But i ordered a couple more Gunze colors and coincidentaly, the shop which sells those just had the B-Wing on sale...

But then i'll atleast have the entire bunch of the fighters of the original trilogy.

 

  

On 8/6/2020 at 6:46 PM, voncrapenhauser said:

I use Florey models washes as they are clay based and need nothing more than a wet finger or tissue to clean up, once dry they just need a matt or satin coat to seal in, just remember to seal any decals first and bobs your uncle. (as easy as pie I mean for any one but the Brits).

Thanks, i couldn't really find those washes anywhere though. I think i'll probably just use the enamel washes very carefully and only do pin washes with those. Then i'll create other washes from my acrylic colors and will use that for bigger areas.

Edited August 8, 2020 by Matt

[Birdman]

Got back to the hobby after 16 years, with a 1/48 tamiya A6M3:

 

 

 

painting using brushes has been challenging when it comes to getting crisp lines (spent an ungodly amount of time masking lol). These yellow strips on the leading edge have been challenging.

I'm probably half way done by now, it's getting along nicely

[voncrapenhauser]

Welcome back to the madness that is scale modeling lol.

 

,look forward to seeing the end result.

Edited August 10, 2020 by voncrapenhauser

[Matt]

After fixing the cracks on the Snowspeeder and finishing the base (used some glass dust to simulate the snow), i somehow managed to lose the clear glass part of the canopy. Maybe it will turn up again or i'll order some acrylic glass panels. I also plan to replace the black stands of all models, while keeping the base plates. Not sure if that will work.

 

 

I fixed the slightly bend left cannon after taking the photos.

 

 

Edited August 10, 2020 by Matt

[Feathered_IV]

That looks outstanding.  

[voncrapenhauser]

10 hours ago, Feathered_IV said:

That looks outstanding.  

Ditto>

[Matt]

Thanks alot guys, i appreciate it.

 

Some more progress on the Y-Wing. Just losely assembled, it's basically just a test how the different colors work. I put a white mist coat on the white-grey parts to make them a bit brighter becaused they were a bit too dark. That also toned down the chipping, but i think it's still OK. I also repainted the yellow parts, i wanted a slighty darker and more golden-orange color. I think the canopy needs some blue. So i guess i have to remask again.

 

Will also need to apply some chipping to everything except for the white parts.. The struts on the engines need more white-grey and i'm not sure about the grey of the rear fuselage. And the actual engine exhausts are not painted yet, i'm still checking some references for that.

 

[voncrapenhauser]

Nicely done 

[Hoots]

13 hours ago, Matt said:

Thanks alot guys, i appreciate it.

 

Some more progress on the Y-Wing. Just losely assembled, it's basically just a test how the different colors work. I put a white mist coat on the white-grey parts to make them a bit brighter becaused they were a bit too dark. That also toned down the chipping, but i think it's still OK. I also repainted the yellow parts, i wanted a slighty darker and more golden-orange color. I think the canopy needs some blue. So i guess i have to remask again.

 

Will also need to apply some chipping to everything except for the white parts.. The struts on the engines need more white-grey and i'm not sure about the grey of the rear fuselage. And the actual engine exhausts are not painted yet, i'm still checking some references for that.

 

 

An artist at work

[Birdman]

Hey guys, what clear coat do you recommend? The model is painted with Tamiya acrylics, I also don't have an airbrush so I'm looking at spray cans.

 

[Feathered_IV]

Tamiya do small spray cans of clear that work very well.  I used to use them quite frequently and was always pleased with the drying time and level of finish.  

[Feathered_IV]

Looks a bit weird at the moment with a glossy finish and no shading or transparencies.  Managing to get on top of the decals though.   The roundels are made by stacking disks of prepainted blank decal film that have been cut with compasses and homemade die punches.  
 

[voncrapenhauser]

9 hours ago, Feathered_IV said:

Looks a bit weird at the moment with a glossy finish and no shading or transparencies.  Managing to get on top of the decals though.   The roundels are made by stacking disks of prepainted blank decal film that have been cut with compasses and homemade die punches.  
 

The red dot in the side roundel must only be a couple of mm across?.....Simply stunning mate.

 

Edited August 13, 2020 by voncrapenhauser

[Matt]

I get the shakes just by looking at that. That is tiny.

  

18 hours ago, Birdman said:

Hey guys, what clear coat do you recommend? The model is painted with Tamiya acrylics, I also don't have an airbrush so I'm looking at spray cans.

 

I use Tamiya spray coats. Gloss clear TS-13 before applying decals and washing or other weathering and then Flat clear TS-80 as final coat. Works perfectly fine for me. Just make sure to not start spraying right on top of the model (to avoid thick splats of coat hitting the model) and move the can swiftly over the model to create thin layers. I use a distance of ca. 20 cm between can and model. They are dry to the touch after 10-15 minutes or so, but i would probably wait a bit longer just to make sure they are completely dry. 

 

They also offer satin finish i think, but i'm not using that (yet). 

[Feathered_IV]

Nice job on the Y-wing Matt.  The light mist of white paint is really effective.  I must remember that when doing ship models to give a bit of extra depth.

 

On ‎8‎/‎13‎/‎2020 at 6:50 PM, voncrapenhauser said:

The red dot in the side roundel must only be a couple of mm across?.....

 

 

Hi VC.  Yep, the red dot is 1.1mm diameter.  I used a piece of brass tube for that one and reamed out the inside until the end was sharp and used it as a punch.

The fin flashes were made the same way, with individual little rectangles lined up together.  The real pain is the T9736 serials that have to be placed one digit at a time.  Probably my least favourite job.  Glad that is done though, so I can get on with the fun stuff. 

 

[Tyberan]

I nearly bought eduards 1/144 A4 skyhawk  the other day to give that scale a crack. I might go back and get it, there's something special about those small scales, plus feathered creations got me in the mood to build one.

[Feathered_IV]

Go for it.  They are great fun.

The A4 is the one originally released by Platz and it is definitely the best in that scale too.  I'd also recommend the F6F and P-51 which are very good indeed.  You can also try the kits by Sweet. 

[Birdman]

Some progress:

 

The landing gear has been a royal pain to fit properly but it is there now. Also realized I should have fully assembled the cowling before painting it, it is a learning experience.

 

I have a few bits left to glue to the model and some paint touch ups to do before varnishing, decals and weathering now.

 

[LukeFF]

Hey guys, so I have some old model railroad buildings from the 1980s that I'm trying to put back together, since the old glue has long gone brittle. What can I use to safely dissolve the old dried glue to give myself a smooth surface to work with?

[cardboard_killer]

Sounds like a job for sandpaper.

2 hours ago, Birdman said:

Some progress:

 

I too and returning to the hobby after many, many years. I hope what I do is half as good as what you've done so far! I just started the cockpit of a P-40B from Airfix 1:48. But I bought a couple of the Tamiya japanese kits as the price on them was so good.

[THERION]

3 hours ago, LukeFF said:

Hey guys, so I have some old model railroad buildings from the 1980s that I'm trying to put back together, since the old glue has long gone brittle. What can I use to safely dissolve the old dried glue to give myself a smooth surface to work with?

 

Did you use a tube like glue at the time (Cementit etc.)? If this is the case and you did not use new fluid glue like Tamiya, Revell etc. I'd suggest
using acetone, but test this before on a spot where it's not visible after.

 

Definitely don't use more glue as @raaaid suggested, because depending on the type of glue this might destroy/attack the plastic parts.

[voncrapenhauser]

In The past I have used Automotive brake fluid , not silicone based ,to remove all traces of panit and old Tubed glue , it softens the glue enough to simply pick off.

Soak parts for a few hour s

I know this sounds severe but most injection plastics are immune ,test a spot 1st .

Just needs a clean up with acrylic thiners  before paint of course.

Never tryed this since using plasti weld.

18 hours ago, LukeFF said:

Hey guys, so I have some old model railroad buildings from the 1980s that I'm trying to put back together, since the old glue has long gone brittle. What can I use to safely dissolve the old dried glue to give myself a smooth surface to work with?

 

Edited August 16, 2020 by voncrapenhauser

[40plus]

1 hour ago, voncrapenhauser said:

In The past I have used Automotive brake fluid , not silicone based ,to remove all traces of panit and old Tubed glue , it softens the glue enough to simply pick off.

Soak parts for a few hour s

I know this sounds severe but most injection plastics are immune ,test a spot 1st .

Just needs a clean up with acrylic thiners  before paint of course.

Never tryed this since using plasti weld.

 

Hmm, that is good piece of knowledge.....I have to have 4-6 half bottles of brake fluid in the shop ?

[Matt]

Finally finished the Y-Wing (except for the base). I'm overall happy with the result. There's gap on the front of the canopy which i didn't notice before and now it's a bit too late to fix that, but it's not a big issue.

 

 

I spent some time priming the remaining models yesterday, i think this one will be the next one for me. Another very nicely detailed model, but it's just way less complex than the Y-Wing, because it's a very simple construction.

 

 

But i've also been thinking about remaking a small diorama which i made when i was a kid, featuring a Leopard 2 and T-80. So maybe i'll do that before finishing all the remaining Star Wars models i still have left to do. 

[STN]

Some progress on the Savoia. 

[Birdman]

22 hours ago, cardboard_killer said:

I too and returning to the hobby after many, many years. I hope what I do is half as good as what you've done so far! I just started the cockpit of a P-40B from Airfix 1:48. But I bought a couple of the Tamiya japanese kits as the price on them was so good.

 

Thanks, can't wait to see your P-40! What kit did you get? I'm considering building a japanese plane again myself now that I have the proper paints, saw a 1/48 Val that's starting to call my name haha.

 

todays work on the zero:

the last bits and pieces have been glued, paint was touched up and it got a canopy now:

 

[cardboard_killer]

10 minutes ago, Birdman said:

What kit did you get?

 

Got this one as an open box special for $7.50.

 

 

11 minutes ago, Birdman said:

can't wait to see your P-40!

 

I probably will be too embarrassed to show it. But I'll try.

[DD_FT-]

Does it really have to be plastic? 

This model made from wood, mostly bamboo ... 

 

The old Bryant Station Camel back bridge, crossing the Little River, Milam County Texas. Built in 1909. Scale is 1/100th.

(It's a truly a unique bridge: One river bank is higher than the other, but the span was built perfectly level, the bridge deck is sloped to deal with the difference in height... )

 

 

 

 

[voncrapenhauser]

Nice Y wing Matt I always liked that design of ship.

 

I love the detail on your Zero's instrument panel Birdman mate.

 

Some of Airfix's new kits are awesome like that P40, way better than the old stuff.

 

Wow that float is detailed STN.

 

Hi DD.

Mixed media models plastic, metal whatever material all welcome.

No restrictions here, any models welcome I think we all like to see something like yours.

 

Also a different subject matter is always welcome I love your bridge diorama... shows great imagination mate, thanks for sharing.

 

Personally I have been from one subject to another of late.

Back to my De Lorean build as I have all the parts now I have no excuse.

 

Bodywork panels added to under frame just like the real De Lorean's stainless steel panels are............In places the Eaglemoss model is sublime and in other areas sadly lacking as most partworks are..............still lots of scope for extra detailing I guess which of course I am doing just like the Jaguar E type(or XKE depending what side of The pond you are.).

So far I have added 3d printed and corrected seats Supplied by my best mate,  Modelmodz power supply,flux capacitor,The SIDD or Christmas tree, their 1 to 6 switch center console replacement ,their Remote control unit,their EL wire flux bands and reactor lighting kit  and spare wheel correction mod.

Also many extra wires and corrective paint detailing.

 

Virtually all The Mike lane mods decals ETC to be and have already added.

Going to be absolute nightmare to wire up ,but hopefully will be worth the effort.

 

 

Edited August 17, 2020 by voncrapenhauser

[Feathered_IV]

Cracking work everybody.  Such a wonderfully diverse range of subjects too!

 

Here's a cute little detail:  I've been working on a prop of the Magister, and noticed that he hub features a spun metal propeller boss that fits on the end. Quite often they appear as a different colour or in polished metal. I didn't think I would have a hope of hand painting it neatly enough, so I tried making it as a separate part instead. Working under magnification, I jammed a piece of silver rod into the end of my dental/jewellers drill and shaped the end into a kind of mushroom profile. I polished it before carefully separating it from the rod. It fits neatly into the hub of the propeller. Although it is so shiny it looks like a searchlight. I'll have to paint it (scary thought) to tone it down a bit. Either white or a duller silver, judging from the profile I'm working with. The shot below is just dry fitted into place. Only 1.8mm across, but it looks nice though!

 

 

[STN]

looking at where the cockpit was and considering the engine/propeller placement... flying this thing must have been a life changing experience.

[Hoots]

9 hours ago, STN said:

looking at where the cockpit was and considering the engine/propeller placement... flying this thing must have been a life changing experience.

 

Almost Feathered level of small things going on in that cockpit!

[STN]

Yes, almost. However Feathered is at the level of a neurosurgeon precision, whereas I am somewhere at the level of a filthy animal- and just to prove my point, I have broken the fine levers of and in two pieces ?. Anyway. It looks like the italian budget version of a Horten. Twice as large and ten times slower!

 

 

[40plus]

7 minutes ago, STN said:

Yes, almost. However Feathered is at the level of a neurosurgeon precision, whereas I am somewhere at the level of a filthy animal- and just to prove my point, I have broken the fine levers of and in two pieces ?. Anyway. It looks like the italian budget version of a Horten. Twice as large and ten times slower!

 

Hey STV, would you mind sharing kit manufacturer info on the Savoia Marchetti and what scale it is?

I already have Porco Posso and Curtis kits and this beauty, appropriately modified, would be a perfect fit if in the same scale.

[STN]

no probs. Dora Wings 1:72

[40plus]

38 minutes ago, STN said:

no probs. Dora Wings 1:72

Many thanks!

 

New kit inbound ?

 

Now, if anyone can finds a 1/72 Macchi M.5 (Porco's plane during military service) or even better M.7 (Gina's plane) let me know! I'd be greatly appreciative.

[STN]

You might want to have a look at KARAYA models. Many wonderfully bizare types. They are a bit pricey though. 

[40plus]

1 hour ago, STN said:

You might want to have a look at KARAYA models. Many wonderfully bizare types. They are a bit pricey though. 

Again, thanks to you. they have a M.5 kit!

[Matt]

Small B-Wing update. Only added the first paint coats to see how it looks. I think the blue needs to look more greyish, but apart from that, it looks OK i think. Of course still lots of stuff that needs to be painted (cockpit, pilot, weapons, engines etc.). Also noticed some areas that need filling. Will need to do all that after my holiday.

 

[40plus]

I agree it looks a bit too blue-ish but otherwise fantastic. B-wing has always been my favorite.

 

Enjoy your holiday!