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FuriousMeow
Posted

So after a lot of different materials and testing, I found what is working the best for me for the smoothest, most frictionless, movement of the joystick and I'll tell you at the end.

 

I've tried:

 

  • Stencil paper
  • 3" wide fabric ribbon
  • runners tape (the new stuff you see runners placing on their skin because it supposedly helps muscles - stuff like bolt tape, not product placement I personally think its gimmicky crap since the muscles are below your skin and taping your skin isn't... well besides the point) that is nylon on one side, so I affixed both sticky surfaces to one another which left nylon outside contacting the bottom of the ring and the lower spring retainer
  • Graphite powder
  • a cut up cotton shirt
  • a cut up nylon shirt
  • WD-40

 

And the winner is: WD-40 with Graphite coming in second. The issue with graphite powder was it built up and caused too much friction for the lower spring retainer that slides up and down the center piece of the lower stick column. So much so that the spring was becoming useless at the very center and taking a while to return to full pressure.

 

Now, don't go spraying WD-40 all over the place - unless you want to destroy the stick. I sprayed some on a paper towel to apply it. Now, to apply it to the lower stick column I had to remove the joystick, spring, retainers, and pop out the little metal rod holding the digital connector on the top of the lower stick column so I could get a little more vertical movement from the lower spring retainer. I applied the WD-40 to a paper towel, and would rub it around the lower stick column while sliding the spring retainer up and down - being sure to make as much of the column covered on the top side with the retainer at its lowest and the lower side with the retainer at its highest. I did this several times, mostly because there was a ton of graphite clogged in there that had to come out. BE CAREFUL! You can easily ruin your stick be pulling the joystick digital connector too far up and rip the wires off, and additionally when you put that metal rod that holds that digital connector on back into the hole and slide it through - you can put it right through one or several of the wires, I DID THAT!  AND IT IS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO FIX! SO BE EXTRA SUPER CAREFUL! I also applied the WD-40 covered paper towel to the lower side of the spring retainer and on the top of the circular riser that the spring retainer comes into contact with. Only the top, no use in getting anywhere down deeper as the retainer doesn't hit that.

 

Since the application, its been super smooth and terrific. I know I'll have to do further applications, but after a lot of testing and different materials - this has been hands down the best solution for me.

 

Even if you did the tl;dr, READ THE BOLDED AND UNDERLINED!!!

 

Good luck!

Posted

Just trying to add to your excellent thread.  I wrote six months ago that I had some old dry powdered teflon and used that then on my X-55.

Just letting you know, that it still works after that single application.  I don't know where this powder can be obtained now days, I've had it thirty years.

 

For anyone else who reads this thread?

If you know of a source for the teflon powder now....please share it.

 

@FuriousMeow

Should ya come across a source for the powder?  Try a dab of it, a little goes a long ways.

:salute:

  • Upvote 1
FuriousMeow
Posted

Thank you Pudfark, great advice! That is certainly a material worth checking out. I'll see if I can locate some and see how it compares to WD-40, should be much better as a single application has lasted you this long and WD-40 will require additional applications fairly regularly.

Posted

Don't use WD-40 on your X55 it will fuck it up and probably your warranty too . If it your X55 is binding in any way just send it back. My first X55 was a basket case, the collar was almost frozen to the shaft. Apparently QC for the first couple of batches of X55's was nonexistent. I called Saitek and they said send it back for replacement, I had a new X55 in 3 days and it is perfect. Smooth as silk.

 

Bottom line, never use a petroleum based lube on plastic. If you must you can get powered Silicon at most stores that sell Archery equipment.

Posted

I've never had wd40 do damage to plastic parts I've used it on.

http://wd40.com/faqs/

 

Safe to use on plastic.

Posted

Then go for it, but don't say you weren't warned when your stick becomes a gummed up mess.

Posted (edited)

Graphite powder caused it to become a gummed up mess.

 

If you'll note how I did the application, it was sprayed onto a paper towel and then applied from that medium. It's not going to be gummed up, I've used it for R/C parts on my off-road R/C car plenty of times - no problems there and it plays in dirt/mud.

Edited by FuriousMeow
Posted

whatever man, it's your 200 bucks.

Posted

I've found, that for plastic to plastic, or plastic to metal, food grade silicon grease works well. I bought an old x-45 that sat in a closet for a decade, wiped it down, a dab of said grease on moving surfaces, and it's been slick for a year+ now. It's also nontoxic, as they use it in diving equipment, it's non-conductive and plastic safe. Just an FYI for anyone reading this thread, that may want an alternative to powder or WD40.

Posted (edited)

Well I used CRC 808 Silicone Spray. It drys um errr dry ;) It is cleared for use on plastics so no problems there.

 

I took the spring off and kept cycling the spring base in an effort to free up a too tight a tolerance on the shaft coming out of the base, no luck. Applying the 808 and working it for a few minutes it became less sticky. Put the spring back on, grip on and a job done in five minutes. I now have a smooth stick that will afford accurate movement so hopefully a gunnery percentage improvement too.

 

I'm in Australia and got it for $17 at Supercheap Auto - Autobarn wanted $25 !!!

 

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/CRC-808-Silicone-Spray-500mL.aspx?pid=1779#Cross

 

http://www.crcindustries.com.au/crc-808-silicone-spray   -------->  Check the tech data sheet if you want. MSDS there too.

 

Give it a whirl! It works :)

 

S!

Mauler.

Edited by WTE_Mauler
Posted (edited)

Extreme_One, I had a PM set up to send you but you can't accept anymore.

 

Anyway, Graphite worked very well for a few months until it just built up too much in between the retention collar and the joystick's lower column. Could have been too much of a buildup there, or it just could have been humidity.

Edited by FuriousMeow
71st_AH_Hooves
Posted

I have this stick and need to do something about the stickyness. Ill try the silicon spray first. Using wd will be my second go.

Posted

Would be curious about the CRC PTFE dry glide. I have read in a forum that it contains a resin of some type ------> http://www.woodworkforums.com/archive/index.php/t-99725.html  Now this guy may have just used too much but the last post advising the CRC people's advice about it's use on worm gear might preclude it's use on our X55s ...

 

The tech sheet states it penetrates materials so that would seem to agree with the resin statement.

 

808 works ;)

 

S!

Mauler.

Posted (edited)

Still waiting for the stick itself here, so haven't gotten to point where to decide sticky or not sticky. Since that spring base is flat surface, it might work.

For applying several times it to worn out gears that should be one to one in first place. Maybe not the best solution.

Edited by Bassly
Posted

Silicone lube worked good for me on my x52 pro. I got it at Autozone, works great on plastic and electronics.

Posted

That may be the "twin" to the product I've had for thirty years.  Mine was manufactured by Hoppe's, who are known for firearm cleaning/lubing products.

I noted on the label of this product it says "dry"?  You said "drops"?  I used a "Q-tip" and lightly rolled it in the powder and then sparingly applied the powder to the friction area on my X-55, then rotated the stick around all of it's axis...then applied a dab more and all has been well since.  Hope this helps.

Great find SD.

  • 2 weeks later...

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