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Posted

I’ve come across a new issue lately. Twitchy flight controls, especially the rudder. I can look internally in the cockpit and see the rudder peddles move when I haven’t made any rudder inputs with the joy stick. I can go to the external view and see the rudder “twitch”  -not full deflection but move rapidly enough to cause the aircraft to respond accordingly. Again, I didn’t make any rudder inputs. The problem doesn’t seem to occur when in Auto Pilot mode (AI flying the aircraft). I’ve gone into the Realism mode and turned off all environmental effects - wind, torque, etc - but the “twitch” is still there. This happen with any aircraft I fly, in any mission and it appears to occur randomly. Any thoughts? Thanks. 
 

Posted

Is your rudder input is stable in Win game controller properties tests? Is the issue is limited to Blitz?

  • Upvote 1
Posted

My controller is a T16000M. Rudder control is stable using the Event Tester in the Thrust-master target script editor. The problem occurs in Blitz and DW. 

Posted (edited)

So twist rudder is stable in what other flight sims? Might be helpful to post a screen shot of your rudder settings in the Blitz/DW-T controls setup menu.

I did a Google search for that T16000M issue. 

Edited by Dagwoodyt
Posted

I did a google search. Apparently, the T16000M has a known problem concerning the rudder axis control. The rudder axis sensor gets dirty resulting in lost of rudder inputs - you lose the rudder. I my case I still have rudder control, just get these random rudder oscillations. Take-offs are tricky over the grass fields where the A/C swings to the left regardless of right rudder input. And in flight the rudder oscillation swings the A/C nose enou that aiming is not steady. There are lots of ut videos showing out to disassemble and clean the sensor, so I give that a try. 

Posted

Noticed Hall sensor conversion mod YT vids. Apparently the high strength magnets they show can be very dangerous to toddlers who might have mischance to ingest them.

Posted

Well, I took the t16K apart , per the UT video, and cleaned the potentiometer. Actually separated the potentiometer unit to clean inside. There was a little crud , not much. Reassembled it without any real problems. Much easier then I expected. Seems to have fixed the issues but I’ll have to fly it some more to really check it out. A good fix and easy to do. 

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