Spitfire Chassis lever

[Spit40]

Very nearly there with the AuthentiKit chassis lever. Lots going on in here but assembles in about 30 mins.  This is a version with stickers that SimKitSupplies.com plan to include with their kit.

 

[Volans]

Awesome! Can't wait!

[Cynic_Al]

Is there a mirror-image option that can mount on the left side of the cockpit, thereby eliminating the historic embarrassment of having to change hands on the stick to operate it?

[Volans]

I belive that one of the goals is a replica-like controls. Historical inconvenient included

[Montana_*VR*]

Thank you Phil for the countless hours of work you put into this unique project. For me personally, these Spitfire controls are a game changer in VR! 

I can't wait until the chassis lever is finished. After that, my AuthentiKit cockpit will finally be complete and I will dedicate myself to assembling it on a motion rig.

Edited January 3, 2022 by Montana_*VR*

[Flying_Colander]

Well done, mate. Thank you for all your hard work to the benefit of us all.

 

FC

[Spit40]

Thanks fellas. Yes, I feel that this completes the essentials for the MkIX. I do have some work in progress on a radiator lever though for older spits and there's an input to the hub allocated for it.

[Spit40]

The assembly video for this AuthentiKit Spitfire chassis lever is now live. Sure beats pressing the G key in IL2

 

[Volans]

Wow! That's a sweet little "G" key for sure.

It will be my first all in house project printed on my brand new cr6se, bought because of you. You should have a share from Creality and the like

Big, big thank you!

[Spit40]

On 1/15/2022 at 8:08 AM, Volans said:

Wow! That's a sweet little "G" key for sure.

It will be my first all in house project printed on my brand new cr6se, bought because of you. You should have a share from Creality and the like

Big, big thank you!

I recommend a few tweaks on the 6SE after living with it for a year or so.

 

1) Make sure the bed is firm not wobbly at all - when it does it's 16 point bed level test it relies on pressing down at all these points to determine precisely the bed height. However when it isn't pressing in the middle the bed tilts a bit under pressure. Keeping the centre rollers tight so it doesn't tilt too much ensures it gets an accurate bed level. Also there's a little adjustable capacitor behind the hot end cover and I found a tuning process somewhere to dial that down to the minimum to detect bed contact rather heaving down and bending the bed more than it needs to.

 

2) The "Luke Hatfield hot end fix" - over time the PTFE tube pulls away from the hotend a bit (most bowden printers have this problem) and a gap creates which molten PLA fills and this leads to stringing. When the print head moves from one place to another, not intending to extrude any filament during that time, it retracts the filament to stop it dripping out but that little reservoir of moltent PLA means the retraction doesn't work properly 

 

3) Lower the hot end so its very close to the bed and put some paper underneath then manually move the hot end from left to right to check that the hotend X axis is parallel to the bed. If not you can tweak the Z screws slightly on one side.