Two problems, Joy and rudder

[III/JG52_Supongo]

Hi friends.

 

I need your help.

 

I have two problems, the first is that I changed the joystick (Logitech G940 for VKB) and when I turn the PC off and on I lose the VKB configuration and I have to configure it again (Axis and buttons).

And the second problem, as you can see in the video, the rudder (Logitech G940) is not linear, it jumps, it is not precise. Can this problem be fixed?

 

Thanks. 

 

Supongo

 

https://youtu.be/87uZfIeXJ1g

 

[9./JG52_J-HAT]

Do you see the code that comes next to your VKB on your video?

When you restart the PC does it change that when you rebind? Or does the binding vanish?

 

I’d say it is either your settings being replaced by default ones through Steam after rebooting.
 

  -In this case your bindings will have vanished. To solve this, please disable Steam Cloud for the game. And make a back-up of your config just in case. You can either copy the .ini file (controls.ini iirc) under Documents/1c SoftClub/Cliffs of Dover or use the save as function from within the game after saving it. 

 

Or it is Windows assigning new ID codes to your devices after the reboot.

 
-Basically shuffling them in device manager. In this case you would rebind the axis and see a different code. And only the new binding would work. 
In this case, I really don’t have an answer since I’ve never seen this. But turn off energy saving for the ports just in case and try to use the same ports for the same devices in case you unplug them. 

Windows shouldn’t really be reassigning IDs after reboots though. So unless you are plugging and unplugging devices or there is indeed a possibility Windows assigns new IDs after rebooting under certain circumstances, it most probably Steam Cloud undoing your settings.

 

Please let us know if you can get it to work or have any other inputs.

 

As for the second problem, with the slider you were moving, you are adding a curve with any value greater than 0.
 

If you leave it at 0 like in the end input = output. But you also added a tiny deadzone which is making the output value a bit delayed around center.

 

It is working as it should. Don’t see any jumping when at 0.

Edited September 21, 2021 by 9./JG52_J-HAT

[III/JG52_Supongo]

8 hours ago, 9./JG52_J-HAT said:

Do you see the code that comes next to your VKB on your video?

When you restart the PC does it change that when you rebind? Or does the binding vanish?

 

I’d say it is either your settings being replaced by default ones through Steam after rebooting.
 

  -In this case your bindings will have vanished. To solve this, please disable Steam Cloud for the game. And make a back-up of your config just in case. You can either copy the .ini file (controls.ini iirc) under Documents/1c SoftClub/Cliffs of Dover or use the save as function from within the game after saving it. 

 

Or it is Windows assigning new ID codes to your devices after the reboot.

 
-Basically shuffling them in device manager. In this case you would rebind the axis and see a different code. And only the new binding would work. 
In this case, I really don’t have an answer since I’ve never seen this. But turn off energy saving for the ports just in case and try to use the same ports for the same devices in case you unplug them. 

Windows shouldn’t really be reassigning IDs after reboots though. So unless you are plugging and unplugging devices or there is indeed a possibility Windows assigns new IDs after rebooting under certain circumstances, it most probably Steam Cloud undoing your settings.

 

Please let us know if you can get it to work or have any other inputs.

 

As for the second problem, with the slider you were moving, you are adding a curve with any value greater than 0.
 

If you leave it at 0 like in the end input = output. But you also added a tiny deadzone which is making the output value a bit delayed around center.

 

It is working as it should. Don’t see any jumping when at 0.

 

Hi  9./JG52_J-HAT

 

Thanks for your quick response.

In the first problem it is the linkage that disappears every time I start the PC.
I will test your advice and inform you.

 

And regarding the second problem, perhaps I have explained it wrong.
As you can see in the video, the in / out bar does not have increments of 1 in 1, but it jumps and goes from 5 to 15, goes down to 10, then to 30, that is, it is not progressive, it makes many jumps, that makes the rudder imprecise. It doesn't matter if I set the sensitivity slider to 0, 50 or 100%. The dead zone does not seem to influence either, it does not matter if it is at 0 or 4 (for example).

 

Sorry for my bad english, I use google traslator.

[OBT-Mikmak]

You don't need dead zone (G940 is precise enough if not damaged).

Set both dead zones equal to 0.0,

Then tune the sensitivity according your preference.

Mine is set to 1.0 (this allow to get maximum precision in the center).

 

Edited September 22, 2021 by OBT-Mikmak

[jollyjack]

You can change joystick IDs with JoyID.exe quite easily.

Dead USB drivers installed? remove them with USBdeview.exe, not the green ones.

[III/JG52_Supongo]

Thank all.

What I mean is that it doesn't matter where the sensitivity point is, (0, 0.5 or 1) or whether there is a dead zone or not. The rudder is very nervous, it jumps, it is not smooth like in other simulators (IL2 BoX or DCS). If you watch the video you will see that the slider is not progressive, it jumps around a bit. It doesn't go 0.01, 0.02, 0.03...etc, it goes 0.01, 0.15, 0.35, 0.25, etc, without control).

 

Regards

 

Supongo

[9./JG52_J-HAT]

I see what you mean.

I use an MFG Crosswind and if I am slow enough with the input it does increment by one.

So can’t see how the game could be doing it differently on your end. 
DCS does not have numbers for the inputs, just the black boxes / red dots.

And BoS has that dial thing without numbers. So you can’t really use them to compare (even though in BoS I can go one tick at a time in the scale if I’m slow enough).

 

I’d say check under windows calibration (run joy.cpl) what the raw data are for the pedals while calibrating.

This should give you a better view of what is happening with your rudder without CloD being a factor.

 

If the windows raw data isn’t clean, it is a problem with the hardware. 
Maybe the pots have acquired dust and are spiking. Or the wires are suffering mechanical interference.

Like here:

https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/25707-how-fix-logitech-g940-rudder-spikesnoise/

 

 

[III/JG52_Supongo]

Thank you very much to all.

I will post the results of your advice. ?

 

Regards

 

Supongo

 

[III/JG52_Supongo]

Solved.

The problem was the rudder, a bad contact.

 

Thx all.

[Buzzsaw]

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.  ?