Tutorials for Do-It-Yourself switch panels

[Deluge]

Hello,

 

I have decided to give a try at making my own switch panel, mostly for the enjoyment of doing something myself and learning a new skill.

 

I have found this nicely done tutorial: https://www.instructables.com/Lets-make-a-game-controller/ but have difficulty finding others. I would just like to compare what is out there in terms of designs/approach/ideas. I have to admit my search skills might not be up to par as I am unsure what term to use in search engines.

 

Has anybody got any other good tutorial for DIY switch panels and controllers for flight sims that they would recommend to a beginner?

 

 

Cheers,

 

D

[Sokol1]

This one in Instructables is the most simple possible, since use a comercial enclosure, so is just matter of make holes, fit the buttons, switches... and solder wires. And cover buttons/switches and analog axes (potentiometer) installation as well LED's.

 

Some people draw and 3D printer the case.

 

Similar project - don't include axes, in an well explained video:

 

Spoiler

 

 

 

You can avoid compile Arduino sketch using MMjoy2 firmware, a configurable though GUI joystick firmware, just need flash that firmware in Arduino PRO Micro, Teensy 2.0, ++2.0 using the USB cable. Or FreeJoy firmware for "Blue Phil" cards, see topic in this forum.

Edited June 23, 2021 by Sokol1

[kissTheSky]

Also check Leo Bodnar website for USB boards if you want to start with relative ease. IIRC, they have boards with up to 64 switch/buttons. 

[I.JG3_CDRSEABEE]

I have 2 BU836 boards...Very easy to wire up but lots of wires. It was a fun project. Then they just use a USB plug into your computer.  I have had them for two years with zero issues. 

 

You can read up on them and what they can do.

[DD_Crash]

this might help

 

[Deluge]

Thanks for the suggestions and the  button box video. I watched it attentively and have a hard time following the logic of which wire goes where. On the tutorial I read using the teensy, each button goes to the ground and to its own individual digital pin (step 5). In the video, he uses a 'matrix grid,' is that just a way of maximizing the number of pins available if you want to use more buttons or is it just because he is using a different board? Similarly, the video seems to only use the ground for the potentiometer but I do not understand why he does not use it for the other buttons. I appreciate all the feedback!

[grcurmudgeon]

A matrix grid is a way of squeezing more buttons into fewer pins. For example, an Arduino might only have 8 inputs for buttons, so if you want 16 or 32 you have to do something like a matrix grid and use software to handle the mappings. The Bodnar board I have has plenty of button inputs (as well as axis) so does not require a matrix grid, each button gets its own ground / +5V line.

[Sokol1]

3 hours ago, Deluge said:

Thanks for the suggestions and the  button box video. I watched it attentively and have a hard time following the logic of which wire goes where. On the tutorial I read using the teensy, each button goes to the ground and to its own individual digital pin (step 5). In the video, he uses a 'matrix grid,' is that just a way of maximizing the number of pins available if you want to use more buttons or is it just because he is using a different board?

 

Let's supposed that Arduino/Teensy  board has 12 pins for digital inputs (buttons).

 

Using GND you can wire 12 buttons  using this 12 pins plus one GND - Need a specif firmware (sketch) for this arrange

 

Using 'Matrix' you combine this 12 pints in 6 rows and 6 columns, so 6x6 = 36 buttons using 12 wires -  Need a specif firmware (sketch) for this arrange, as example in BU0836A, DSD12.

 

In 'Matrix' a column and row wire is shared with 6 buttons, and diodes (1N4148) avoid that two buttons pressed simultaneous generate a unwanted 3rd button pressed (Matrix ghosting). A simplified example with 8 buttons in BU0836A.

 

Spoiler

 

An third option for wire more than the hypothetical 12 buttons is using an extra Shift Register circuit (CD4021B...) like the expensive BU0836-X, DSD64 have included.

 

Quote

Similarly, the video seems to only use the ground for the potentiometer but I do not understand why he does not use it for the other buttons. I appreciate all the feedback!

 

The video linked above don't include potmter - the rotary device is an encoder, that don't use analog inputs (like potmter), but use 2 buttons inputs. Turn encoder clockwise press a button sequentially, turn encoder counterclockwise press another button sequentially. 

 

For wire potentiometer (or analog contact less sensor) Power and Gnd wires can be shared between all potmtr used, only the analog output (potmtr center pin) need an exclusive pin in the board. 

 

Let's go by parts. As Jack the Ripper would say.

 

1 - Get the enclosure, press buttons, switches - momentarily, latching; the potentiometer (optional) and encoders (optional) that you want in you button box.

 

2 - Decide what control you will use:

 

- An cheap DIY Arduino (<$4) , Teensy 2.0 (~$16) - need flash firmware, code, and solder job for board pins, buttons.

 

- Or a comercial controller board, examples:

 

Leo Bodnar BU0836A ($36) - up to 32 buttons/encoder, 8 axes, diode matrix and soldering is needed.

BBI-64 ($50)  - up to 64buttons/encoder only, Shift Register* for wires connections.

BU08336X ($71) - up to 32 buttons/encoders and 8 axes, Shift Register for wire connections

 

* Shift Register circuit don't need solder,  just need fit wires in press connectors.

 

Other option of controller card ready to use is DSD boards - see in Circuits, whose price include worldwide shipping.

 

 

[=TU=Gh0st]

The simplest I think is to use one of the commercial controllers but if you have an old keyboard, here is another option:
Home Simulator – DIY Button box for (almost) free with up to 100 buttons - YouTube

If you choose to use an Arduino or ESP microcontroller, you will also have to program it and install the Arduino SDK; not sure what is needed to program commercial boards.  I highly recommend you also address ghosting by adding diodes. I didn't in my previous iterations and will address that in my next build.
Arduino Keyboard Matrix Code and Hardware Tutorial - Bald Engineer  

I am on my third iteration of a custom box and I am using Arduino ProMicro  and momentary buttons, switches, on/off switches and encoders.  The next version will have SRS controls and my goal was to replace my X52 Hotas and I have accomplished that. 

As far as simple.  Start with one and add more switches, buttons and when you figure those add; then add encoders.

You will need a breadboard for prototyping 

How to Build a Button Box - YouTube - This one is a bit more generic and detailed and it is based on the sparco build listed above.

Welcome to the builder's club... 

 

[Sokol1]

12 hours ago, =TU=Gh0st said:

If you choose to use an Arduino or ESP microcontroller, you will also have to program it and install the Arduino SDK;

 

With (above suggested) Arduino PRO Micro (Chinese clone for <$10)or Teensy 2.0, ++2.0 is not need to program, but just flash the already existing MMJoy2 firmware, though the USB cable, like is done in Joystick, e.g. Cougar, Warthog, VirPil, VKB...or L.Bodnar Bu0836* firmware update. Same goes for FreeJoy firmware.

 

Old keyboard controller has a drawback, Windows don't distinguish from key press send by this controller and the conventional keyboard. It's OK for limited/ specific controls.

Edited July 1, 2021 by Sokol1

[Confused_2018]

To be honest all that I see is a jumble of wires and couldn't work out the required resistors for anything.

 

Would something like circuit design software be helpful?

 

https://www.electronicsforu.com/special/cool-stuff-misc/open-source-circuit-design-software

 

https://www.kicad.org/download/

 

 

 

[BigGinger]

On 7/1/2021 at 12:13 AM, =TU=Gh0st said:

How to Build a Button Box - YouTube - This one is a bit more generic and detailed and it is based on the sparco build listed above.

 

+1 for this video.  I built a box 6 months ago, with zero previous experience, almost exclusively referencing this and it worked great.  Shout out to @-332FG-Wim for putting that together.

[Sokol1]

2 hours ago, Confused_2018 said:

To be honest all that I see is a jumble of wires and couldn't work out the required resistors for anything.

 

Would something like circuit design software be helpful?

 

Matrix don't require resistors, but diodes, e.g. 1N4148. Used for avoid that current go for undesired nodule of the matrix - pressing an undesired button (Matrix ghost).

 

See this sample, 4 buttons (press switches) and POV HAT switch wired to BU0836A - using 6 columns and 2 rows of the Matrix, for more buttons just follow the principle.

 

 

Rule of the thumb: If use 36 buttons (maximum possible) all 6 columns will be shared 6 times and all 6 rows will be shared 6 times. 

 

Circuit design software is useful if you plan make PCB, what is optional.

[=TU=Gh0st]

This is more advanced but it is helpful to change the configuration of the button box. 

I/O Board 
PDf file is negatives ready for printing on a transparency to be transfer to double sided copper clad board. The images are lined up on the outside edged vertically and horizontal is a little offset.  

 

Edited August 27, 2021 by =TU=Gh0st

[mattswe]

Take a look at MobiFlight. Its free and very potent. All you need is an arduino mega board, you dont even have to learn programming it. 

[Dagwoodyt]

A couple of Xmas's ago I got a Hakko soldering set and a magnifier desk lamp as presents and proceeded to make a DIY button box/throttle. I decided to use the BU0836X since it would not require any programming skills. The 8-way hat switch, buttons and some switches I bought from the Bodnar website. I think the project took about six weeks. Much of the "devil" in the details consisted of ensuring good solder joints and finding good fixtures to hold parts while soldering. Sites that deal with radio control airplane supplies were a source of connectors and specialized tools. From the start I focused on a setup that would lend itself to the VR environment. For example, non-latching switches could be set at right angles to one another so as to more easily differentiate elevator from rudder and aileron trim. The unfortunately tiny Bodnar 8-way hat switch works fine for setting gunsight range and wingspan. Slide pots I included out of curiosity. If wired incorrectly you will know from the burning odor ?

The consequential thing I did was to include a 3-turn pot that I mounted on the side of the box. I am using that for throttle and it makes a world of difference in terms of fine control for landing and taxiing. Not only that but lack of a throttle lever makes all the switches easier to access. I used a standard enclosure from Amazon. It measures 14x22x9cm. All the switches are little more than a handsbreath away. The entire box is a fraction of the weight of the throttle I had been using and takes up consideralbly less desktop real estate. It sits atop a silicone pad and does not move despite the light weight. In fairness I will mention that I also use a Gunfighter Pro with MCG grip as well as VoiceAttack so there is no need for a more complex DIY throttle. I am beginning to view throttle levers as something of a fetish. I can go back to using one at any time but for present I prefer using the DIY box.

Edited August 24, 2021 by Dagwoodyt

[grcurmudgeon]

My work-in-progress, thanks to the suggestion of checking out Gear Falcon on etsy. Picked up a throttle lever and a trim wheel from there, and added some bits I've had lying around for a while (including a Leo Bodnar BU0836X board, although if I need another I'll try one of the Gear Falcon joystick boards). I've wanted a higher-than-8-bit throttle for a long time, and il2 is just begging for an elevator trim wheel (maybe some day I'll add rudder and aileron for the planes that have them), so getting these 2 missing pieces let me finally start playing around with my dream. Not hooked up yet, need to finish the mounting for it then wire it up the BU0836X, but getting close now. My word-working skills are rough, the slots and holes got better as I went, but if I want it cleaner I could probably look into getting the panel 3D printed.