Thrustmaster T16000M FCS problem

[Hermanator]

Hi all, 

 

I'm having a bit of a problem with my Thrustmaster T16000M FCS, its rudder control (or yaw or wichever its called). It seems the T-Axis on the joystick isn't responding correctly. 

 

I've had the joystick since January 2019. I'm hoping someone has experienced this problem before and has idea on how to fix it or perhaps a work around. During take off the plane ends up spinning on the runway. 

 

Many thanks in advance. 

[Sokol1]

An well know flaw of T.16000M is that twist rudder use a common low price/quality potentiometer, device subject to wear with use, what cause erratic reading (spikes).

 

Alias what is common in "entry level" cheap joysticks and even in the more expensive Logitech/Saitek X-5/6x line.

 

If you have experience with solder iron can replace this potentiometer, the model used is CTS 251B12T104A2NB.

 

 

[Confused_2018]

Some fixes I found online. Use at your own risk:

 

 

Here is a disassembly video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVzhEgHS4bA

 

I would use iso alcohol and plastic safe grease over WD-40, but at least it isnt a full disassembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=688J7pfqLVs

 

And here someone thinks they have found part of the reason and a permanent fix:

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/9h5va3/t16000_yaw_fixed/

 

Best of luck

[WildWilly]

After taking it out of the box after 1 year again.. same problem here. Does anybody know where i can get this potentiometer , i know mouse, but its about 10 weeks and 25 bucks delivery for a piece worth 2 bucks... any information appreciated  thank you

[Sokol1]

WildWilly, 

 

Instead the original pot - an ~40º "effective electric angle model"*, why is rarely available in electronic stores, if you have some DIY ability use an Hall Sensor, e.g. Allegro A1324LUAT, Honeywell SS495A1, SECE SS49E... plus a Neodymium magnet, square, rectangle, or better an disk diametrically magnetized.

An example in Logitec 3D PRO whose system is very similar to T.16000M, is not need this 3D parts, they are used because the user want a 'pot replacement", allowing revert for original, but revert for a bad thing?

 

* An easy way to get a similar potentiomter is buy an mini-stick for gamepad and remove their pot, these model have the needed limited "effective electric angle". But is a bit difficult remove industrial solder without "fried" the potentiometer.

 

Another example, using the original pot as support for Hall, installed in a Cobra M5, too similar to T.16000M twist,m notice the use of an magnet disk diametrically magnetized.

https://i.postimg.cc/59nvZcBx/Twist-Hall.jpg

 

Anyway, alternative sellers for CTS 251B12T104A2NB, get at least two because the slider throttle use the same pot' and eventually will worm out. In twist is less durable because the flex of grip impose forces of pot' wipers.

 

 

Edited November 30, 2020 by Sokol1

[WildWilly]

Thank u for ur detailed infos...looking at this old stick and looking at the modern ones and those upcoming products i guess no need for soldering? and tbh i am fed up with this cheap plastic sticks pretending to be a quality product

[Hermanator]

To be honest my practical skills are way below taking apart a joystick and soldering. Though I hope this thread may help future people who run into this problem.

 

I'll probably just rebuy this joystick or look at another one. Out of interest what is the general consensus on the "Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X"? Or is that a downgrade? 

[Sokol1]

HOTAS X is downgrade for sure relative to T.16000M, this at least use the same contactless Hall sensor (MLX90333) used in Warthog and X-56 in their main axes (X, Y).

HOTAS X

- Use low price/quality potentiometers in all axes.

- Their USB controller is the same low frequency (~85 MHZ) of cheap/low quality non-name gamepad.

 

If you want upgrade in quality, features, technology, in middle cost the way is:

 

VKB NXT - $130 and $150 versions. Besides main axes, twist axis with contacless sensor VKB MaRS (KMZ-41).

 

Edited December 3, 2020 by Sokol1

[BroGrimm1tkcamp]

I have the same problem with my crosswinds. They show response in windows and calibration is OK.  They work in DCS. Only in IL2 are they not being recognized. I can assign them in mapping (so it sees them there) but no joy in game....no pun intended.

 

So it might not be your device. See if windows sees the axis. Maybe a game bug?

[Confused_2018]

Saw this calibration software mentioned, no idea if it will help:

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/854tou/t16000m_twist_axis_issues/

 

Thustmaster calibration tool:

ftp://ftp.thrustmaster.com/accessories/pc/Utilities/TM_CALIB_103.exe

 

Good luck

Edited December 2, 2020 by Confused_2018
Wrong link