I-16 Constant Engine Damage

[TargetSlayer]

Folks,

 

I am experiencing constant engine damage to my I-16 on Realistic settings. At first, I thought it was the oil and cowl, but still experiencing this problem with them wide open. Now, thinking it may be prop pitch? If so, not sure what settings should be used for flight and fight. Perhaps it is something else?

 

Best,

TS!

[messsucher]

Prop RPM governor whatever 90%, Water rad 1/3 open, oil rad 1/5 open, throttle maybe 90%, fuel mixture 100%, with these settings you should be able to cruise endlessly.

 

You need to keep the temps in check. Water rad related temp not above 100 Celsius, and cylinder head temp not above 200 Celsius. 

 

If you let RPM go high like 2400+ for prolonged periods it supposedly breaks your engine. ATA should be at instrument number 9 and max 11.

 

If you have patience you could do testing to get accurate settings and an better idea what the engine can stand. I only do testing when cruising to mission objectives, so I get bits of info hear and there. Would be worthwhile to just do proper testing.

[TargetSlayer]

Thanks for the information, messsucher!

[TP_Jacko]

Check the RPM settings for your aircraft. You will quickly kill any engine at full throttle in a short time. 

[69th_Mobile_BBQ]

On 10/18/2020 at 3:29 PM, messsucher said:

Prop RPM governor whatever 90%, Water rad 1/3 open, oil rad 1/5 open, throttle maybe 90%, fuel mixture 100%, with these settings you should be able to cruise endlessly.

 

You need to keep the temps in check. Water rad related temp not above 100 Celsius, and cylinder head temp not above 200 Celsius. 

 

If you let RPM go high like 2400+ for prolonged periods it supposedly breaks your engine. ATA should be at instrument number 9 and max 11.

 

If you have patience you could do testing to get accurate settings and an better idea what the engine can stand. I only do testing when cruising to mission objectives, so I get bits of info hear and there. Would be worthwhile to just do proper testing.

 

Umm.....  The I-16 doesn't have water radiators....   Doesn't (technically) measure manifold pressure as "ATA".....    Aaaaand....   Doesn't run at 2400+ RPM - unless you're lawn-darting from 6km...

Edited October 31, 2020 by Mobile_BBQ

[6./ZG26_Klaus_Mann]

35 minutes ago, Mobile_BBQ said:

 

Umm.....  The I-16 doesn't have water radiators....   Doesn't (technically) measure manifold pressure as "ATA".....    Aaaaand....   Doesn't run at 2400+ RPM - unless you're lawn-darting from 6km...

Thank you. This Engine Analphabetism is truly annoying.

 

Russians measure Manifold Pressure in mm in Hg. 762mm is Sea Level Pressure

Americans in inches of Hg. 29.92 is Sea Level Pressure

Germans used Atmospheres, 1.0 is Sea Level Pressure

English use lbs/sq.in. 14.7 is Sea Level Pressure.

 

Radial Engines have no Water Cooling, V12s are never Aircooled except for some Diesel Trucks.

 

ALL INGAME ENGINES THAT CAN ACHIEVE MANIFOLD PRESSURES ABOVE SEA LEVEL PRESSURE HAVE A SUPERCHARGER; SOME HAVE AN ADDITIONAL TURBOCHARGER, BUT EXCEPT FOR PO-2 ALL INGAME AIRCRAFT ARE AT LEAST SUPERCHARGED.

 

The small Indicator is for 100s of RPM, the thick short one for the 1000s. (That I even have to explain that to men who have made it to adulthood long before me.)

Edited October 31, 2020 by 6./ZG26_Klaus_Mann

[69th_Mobile_BBQ]

 

 

 

For general (new pilot) purposes:    

 

Inlet cowls:  100% open

Oil Radiator: 100% open 

RPM: 90%

Throttle: 100%                  >>> Runs all day.

 

 

The main difference for experienced pilot settings is:  

 

Keep Oil temperature between 80 and 100 degrees but, closer to 100.   >  Oil viscosity (controlled by oil temperature) seems to be more important with rotary engines, compared to block engines, for getting best horsepower output.  ~100 seems to be the "sweet spot" for thinning the oil without making it too thin.  

 

Keep cylinder head temperature ~200 degrees.  You'll notice the cylinder temp gauge has a 2 'red zones' - 1 at the low end and 1 at the high end.  Generally, keeping the needle in the middle is good enough.   (There used to be a bug that would trigger technochat overheat warnings early if the cyl. head temp. got to the middle.  I don't recall if it's still there but, it shouldn't be an issue as long as the gauge reads correctly.)

 

The above Throttle and RPM settings should be just fine though.  You can always bring the throttle back to 90% if you think going 100% might be too much.  

If you're using the technochat information, just keep the RPM level from going to "boost" mode and you should be fine.   

 

[ZachariasX]

Open the inlet shutter. These are your only "cowl flaps".

 

Open:

 

Closed:

 

Same on the Ju-52.