Plastic Modelers in the IL-2 Community

[BornToBattle]

Been kinda quiet in here lately sooooo…

 

…a bit of an issue I’ve experienced. I have the Tamiya weathering kits. You know, those ones with the makeup applicator foam and little brush which seem to be like moist pastels. Really enjoy using them, however things look great UNTIL you seal all your weathering in with your top coat(s) - then stuff like your pastels (in this case the Tamiya weathering) seem to all but disappear. On my Stuka all the detail work once hit with the top coats especially the light colors they all seemed to pretty much vanished. I guess the logic being anything being of a chalky powdered consistency once hit with a sprayed liquid (airbrush) will either turn darker or simple visually melt into the background if of a similar shade.

 

So is it everyone’s SOP in using stuff like this I take it to add them AFTER you seal in everything with your top coat? I’m guessing “yes” since I kinda answered my own question above but just want confirmation in it. I’ve watched hundreds of videos online on weathering techniques, builds, etc. and yes from time to time noticed further weathering/details going on in the last steps of the video but always assumed that the model was top coated after those things were done (minus canopy, rigging, etc. of course). Now I’m thinks due to my experience my assumptions were wrong! 
 

Steep learning curve here after being out of the plastic model world for 40+ years so please forgive my ignorance. Still learning!

 

Your thoughts and inputs? Thanks gang! Happy modeling (and flying)!

 

 

[Vishnu]

Another amazing diorama. ?

 

[ZachariasX]

4 hours ago, BornToBattle said:

So is it everyone’s SOP in using stuff like this I take it to add them AFTER you seal in everything with your top coat?

In principle, that is how I do it, but there is always a trade-off.

 

With the kids, they have best results by just putting that makeup on the paint. Two reasons: you are finished faster (that matters to them) and you can be more coarse with wiping of excess stuff. We get best results by using sort of a "subractive" technique, namely, they of course put on too much weathering and then use a Q-Tip to get rid of the execss. It is easier for them getting rid of excess than just putting on until enough is enough. Then seal everything in top coat. The wiping also makes the powder really stick on the porous paint, hence adding top coat changes little in appearance.

 

For myself, as you suggested, I seal the paint with top coat and then take more time adding the weathering. On the sealed surface, I tend to have more control to place and shade it as the stickyness of the paint has no more influence on the dispersion of the weathering. But this takes a steady, clean hand and more time.

 

I have found that the "best" procedure implies more than just the end result. And differences in the end result are often not really visible to the untrained eye.

[BornToBattle]

8 hours ago, ZachariasX said:

In principle, that is how I do it, but there is always a trade-off.

 

With the kids, they have best results by just putting that makeup on the paint. Two reasons: you are finished faster (that matters to them) and you can be more coarse with wiping of excess stuff. We get best results by using sort of a "subractive" technique, namely, they of course put on too much weathering and then use a Q-Tip to get rid of the execss. It is easier for them getting rid of excess than just putting on until enough is enough. Then seal everything in top coat. The wiping also makes the powder really stick on the porous paint, hence adding top coat changes little in appearance.

 

For myself, as you suggested, I seal the paint with top coat and then take more time adding the weathering. On the sealed surface, I tend to have more control to place and shade it as the stickyness of the paint has no more influence on the dispersion of the weathering. But this takes a steady, clean hand and more time.

 

I have found that the "best" procedure implies more than just the end result. And differences in the end result are often not really visible to the untrained eye.

Thanks Zach! Yeah, sometimes when watching tons of videos I find myself feeling as if my brain cells are gonna explode with differing info. I’ll type in a search and I’ll get 10 people each doing techniques 10 different ways. I guess the best teacher at the end of the day is simply by doing. 
 

One thing I have learned (for me anyways as I work in acrylics) is that the Tamiya XF-86 is anything but flat. It’s more of a satin leaning slightly towards glossy clear for me. I’ve learned I can really tone that down effectively with shooting another layer of clear over top of it using AK Interactive Ultra Matte. If I keep going it’ll be “dead” flat within two thin applications. Great stuff.

 

Just thought I’d pass this along and thanks again for your taking the time to input my post here!

 

Cheers!

8 hours ago, Vishnu said:

Another amazing diorama. ?

 

Watching him cut that sub model in half was painful!

[voncrapenhauser]

15 hours ago, ZachariasX said:

In principle, that is how I do it, but there is always a trade-off.

 

With the kids, they have best results by just putting that makeup on the paint. Two reasons: you are finished faster (that matters to them) and you can be more coarse with wiping of excess stuff. We get best results by using sort of a "subractive" technique, namely, they of course put on too much weathering and then use a Q-Tip to get rid of the execss. It is easier for them getting rid of excess than just putting on until enough is enough. Then seal everything in top coat. The wiping also makes the powder really stick on the porous paint, hence adding top coat changes little in appearance.

 

For myself, as you suggested, I seal the paint with top coat and then take more time adding the weathering. On the sealed surface, I tend to have more control to place and shade it as the stickyness of the paint has no more influence on the dispersion of the weathering. But this takes a steady, clean hand and more time.

 

I have found that the "best" procedure implies more than just the end result. And differences in the end result are often not really visible to the untrained eye.

As that's what I do also I didn't feel the need to add a comment to Born to Battle as Zacharias, as he very eloquently  said it all, yes I also "over do" my weathering too ,add a"Dust" coat add more weathering and "Dust" coat only.

Edited May 16, 2022 by voncrapenhauser

[BornToBattle]

Well what the heck I’ll post.

 

Working off and on the last couple of months and finally done. First foray for me in weathering techniques. It’s a 1/48 scale old Revell kit it’s an old, old kit raised panel lines and all complete with barely recognizable canopy frame lines and defects. I built it BOOB style (built out of box) or the more “politically correct” BOB style. I’ve got a WWI Pfalz and a Hamp A6M3 Zero coming down the production line as well soon. After that it’s gonna be either the old B-25 in 1/48 or I’ll switch to armor in 1/35 for something different temporarily. Of course I’ve got a first full of 1/12 F1 cars to complete as well.

 

Keep safe and enjoy good people…

 

 

Edited January 14, 2023 by BornToBattle

[cardboard_killer]

I think your dirt needs tire tracks, though.

[BornToBattle]

7 hours ago, cardboard_killer said:

I think your dirt needs tire tracks, though.

Lol…I threw that together at the last minute. It was starting to spit rain and I was rushing before the winds picked up. It’s just a simple piece of foam board I sprayed with adhesive and threw dirt over it. Gonna trash it. Was just temporary (sorta). The foam board needed up warping so next up is plywood sheet for a more permanent photo shoot. Not meant to be a diorama sorta thingy, just for photo use. I’ll be using it for the armor I’m gonna tackle too so I can’t make certain things “permanent” in the dirt as the subject will always be different.

 

Looking at the photos now I like the ones against the black background better, but that’s just me. The quick display with the dirt was made on a whim of temporary insanity.

 

I’d like to make one with a natural setting and another with a concrete look to it actually.

 

Thanks for the reply! 

Edited May 18, 2022 by BornToBattle

[AKA_Big10]

 

Here are a few more that I have completed.

 

Revell 1/32 P-51D Early. Had to use a old spare canopy from Tamiya kit. 

 

 

ModelSvit F-82 

 

 

 

Eduard 1/48 Camel

 

Eduard 1/48 Zero

[BornToBattle]

Okay another build. This took 5 days it’s the 1/35 Meng kit of the little WW1 Whippet. I based it on a photo I saw online. Didn’t use any of the kit decals had to do my own stencil to try to get the number close as I could to the style. Of course everything back then was hand painted. Wrapped the one exhaust to simulate asbestos they used. Otherwise everything was built out of box. I’m just learning the weathering techniques and this is my first time trying it out on a tank model. It definitely is a learning experience to say the least! I’m looking forward to improving in this area.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2022 by BornToBattle

[ZachariasX]

Wow.. well done!

[BornToBattle]

43 minutes ago, ZachariasX said:

Wow.. well done!

Thanks Zach. Still learning - some things I won’t do on next build and in looking back now I could have improved the Whippet in a few ways looking at the photos now in regards to weathering. So many different techniques and materials out there. I guess one is never satisfied with their work (well, at least I’m not lol). 
 

Thanks for looking!

[cardboard_killer]

Whippet Good!

[Birdman]

Just finished HobbyBoss 1/48 F6F3, it's a pleasant kit to build however there's some inaccuracies with the plane shape apparently:

Made seat belts with aluminium foil and lead wire:

[AKA_Big10]

Finished up another Eduard P-51D Mustang. This time a Korean War Mustang. 

[BornToBattle]

Another WW1 tank done. This time the little two man Renault FT-17. All done again in acrylics and Liquitex medium, blah, blah, blah. Didn’t make it according to the kit in so far as decal instructions go. Did some research and went off-script a little. It’s a Meng kit, again in 1/35 as all my armor is. Have a great day good people and happy flying/modeling and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

Edited June 27, 2022 by BornToBattle

[cardboard_killer]

Well, that's nice. However, it looks like that dirt came from a soil with a high clay content, which would mean it came from the north of France. And they didn't use the FT-17 there, so its a fail for me.

 

[PS that's a joke for anyone not getting it--looks fantastic, great job!]

[BornToBattle]

1 hour ago, cardboard_killer said:

Well, that's nice. However, it looks like that dirt came from a soil with a high clay content, which would mean it came from the north of France. And they didn't use the FT-17 there, so its a fail for me.

 

[PS that's a joke for anyone not getting it--looks fantastic, great job!]

You guys are BRUTAL! ?
 

I really do appreciate the comment as I can tell with your sense of humor (which I love BTW) as yes - there are indeed rivet counters out there which is why you’ll never see any of my models (not that they are in that league anyways) in a competition. I’ve heard of judges that carry around an angled micro-mirror and flashlight. Just not my gig. I simply do it cuz like flight simming - that’s what I enjoy. On some other forums your comment wouldn’t be taken tongue-in-cheek but because it wasn’t meant to be. ? 

 

“Tanks” again Hoots! ??
PS - I’m gonna share your comment at the next model club meeting here and I’m just gonna read it verbatim and wait for their reaction lol! 

Edited June 27, 2022 by BornToBattle

[No_85_Gramps]

2 hours ago, BornToBattle said:

Another WW1 tank done. This time the little two man Renault FT-17. All done again in acrylics and Liquitex medium, blah, blah, blah. Didn’t make it according to the kit in so far as decal instructions go. Did some research and went off-script a little. It’s a Meng kit, again in 1/35 as all my armor is. Have a great day good people and happy flying/modeling and thanks for stopping by!

 

FWIW I think you did a fantastic job! I have an half-built one that needs to get completed, this might just give me the inspiration!

[BornToBattle]

1 hour ago, No_85_Gramps said:

FWIW I think you did a fantastic job! I have an half-built one that needs to get completed, this might just give me the inspiration!

Go Gramps, GO! Just do it! And thank you! ?

 

Okay, in order to give Gramps some inspiration here’s some more. I just finished it last night. It is my first foray into a resin kit. Some things definitely different from what I’m used to with the plastic styrene kits but man…the detail this guy is able to get from his printer is crazy good stuff.

 

It’s the very first tank designed and made in the USA technically speaking - it’s not the first PRODUCTION tank made in the USA. Here’s a link describing all the hoopla and blah, blah, blah if anyone is interested…

https://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww1/USA/holt-gas-electric-tank.php

 

It was made by Holt which later became known as Caterpillar and featured an elaborate forced water cooling system for the ‘always running extremely hot’ General Electric dual transmissions, which, naturally, added even more weight for the little 90HP engine to push around (the engine actually produced the electricity to power the transmission). Only one was made for testing by the US Army.

 

PS- I left mud off of this one as it saw no combat and depicted it during testing trials although cardboard_killer will no doubt pick out that the dirt and dust surrounding the lower hull is not in line with the terra for a found throughout the testing area at the time!  ?

 

 

Edited June 27, 2022 by BornToBattle

[Vishnu]

1 hour ago, BornToBattle said:

Go Gramps, GO! Just do it! And thank you! ?

 

Okay, in order to give Gramps some inspiration here’s some more. I just finished it last night. It is my first foray into a resin kit. Some things definitely different from what I’m used to with the plastic styrene kits but man…the detail this guy is able to get from his printer is crazy good stuff.

 

It’s the very first tank designed and made in the USA technically speaking - it’s not the first PRODUCTION tank made in the USA. Here’s a link describing all the hoopla and blah, blah, blah if anyone is interested…

https://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww1/USA/holt-gas-electric-tank.php

 

It was made by Holt which later became known as Caterpillar and featured an elaborate forced water cooling system for the ‘always running extremely hot’ General Electric dual transmissions, which, naturally, added even more weight for the little 90HP engine to push around (the engine actually produced the electricity to power the transmission). Only one was made for testing by the US Army.

 

PS- I left mud off of this one as it saw no combat and depicted it during testing trials although cardboard_killer will no doubt pick out that the dirt and dust surrounding the lower hull is not in line with the terra for a found throughout the testing area at the time!  ?

 

 

Damn.  Hard to believe men rode in that death trap. 

[hetstaine]

1/32 Hasegawa 109G6 wip. I finished a 1/48 109 in a Hartmann scheme just before this build as practice as i was going to do the same scheme again in 1/32. First pic is the 1/48 Hartmann model. Somewhere along the way Barkhorns scheme caught my eye so i ordered the Montex Mask kit for Barkhorns G6. Very slow build so far but man, so much nicer working in the larger scale for me.

 

 

Still a bit to do, wheels and undercarriage detailing, prop hub, finish markings, detail exhausts, clear and weathering etc.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2022 by hetstaine
additional

[BornToBattle]

Good day to all!
 

Finished off a couple more models. Both 1/35 scale. First off it’s the Pioneer Tractor Company’s Skeleton tank built as a prototype in 1918 and the one and only one survives to this day. The company was located in Winona, Minnesota. Unique in that it could be totally disassembled if need be for overseas shipment, or at least that was the plan had it been approved for production. It consisted of a two man crew and unlike previous tanks of the era could also cross water with relative ease. 
 

 

 

Next is the M1919 Christie tank which featured two independent turrets and could be run with or without tracks on the battlefield. It failed field trails for the US Army and only one ever build. I depicted it with light weathering after a few days of testing on the Aberdeen Proving Grounds.

 

Edited July 5, 2022 by BornToBattle

[No_85_Gramps]

A couple of unique models, and weathering nicely done!

[BornToBattle]

24 minutes ago, No_85_Gramps said:

A couple of unique models, and weathering nicely done!

Thanks again for the feedback Gramps. I do appreciate it!

 

Yeah, I did debate in posting these as they are not typical your more “interesting” builds aka Tigers, Leopards, etc. I usually run two builds at a time my reasoning while one is going through such a thing as say, paint curing, I can jump over to the other build and forge along. Right now in the bench is Meng’s 1/35 Jagdpanther. She’s been base coated and just noticed on this particular camo scheme of the tank I’m doing I need to add two camo hooks at the gun mount I forgot to do earlier. No biggie though. For whatever reason I’m not going to make this one “battle weary” but more as though she’s just gone onto the line so she’ll be depicted with some dust and dirt of course but no “battle scars”. I love the lines of the Jagdpanther and had the Tamiya kit decades ago to build but never did so this is kinda my tribute model to my days gone by.

 

 

On 6/25/2022 at 4:10 PM, AKA_Big10 said:

Finished up another Eduard P-51D Mustang. This time a Korean War Mustang. 

Curious as to what paints you used. I have yet to dive into the bare metal schemes yet. Good job!!!

[No_85_Gramps]

First, lots of great models on display here! I don't mind building but painting was my "yeah, i'll get to it one day" crutch. I probably have around 5 or 6 kits that are awaiting paint. I lamented the demise of Polly-S paints and recently tried Vallejo to try and get back on track. I decided to build a sub for my neighbor, and good friend, who served on the USS Jack in the early 70's. He was happier then a pig-in-sh** when I gave it to him. I forgot to get some decent pictures but here is one I did get. Below that is a pic of a new build of two FFG-15 USS Estocins. Both my son and son-in-law served on her. Once they get completed I plan on a M1025 early HUMVEE from the Desert Shield/Storm time frame.

 

 

[BornToBattle]

On 7/11/2022 at 8:14 AM, No_85_Gramps said:

First, lots of great models on display here! I don't mind building but painting was my "yeah, i'll get to it one day" crutch. I probably have around 5 or 6 kits that are awaiting paint. I lamented the demise of Polly-S paints and recently tried Vallejo to try and get back on track. I decided to build a sub for my neighbor, and good friend, who served on the USS Jack in the early 70's. He was happier then a pig-in-sh** when I gave it to him. I forgot to get some decent pictures but here is one I did get. Below that is a pic of a new build of two FFG-15 USS Estocins. Both my son and son-in-law served on her. Once they get completed I plan on a M1025 early HUMVEE from the Desert Shield/Storm time frame.

 

 

Nice work! The sub…what scale is that? Love the base for it too. Did you build the base yourself?

[No_85_Gramps]

8 minutes ago, BornToBattle said:

Nice work! The sub…what scale is that? Love the base for it too. Did you build the base yourself?

Thank you! The sub is 1/350th Permit class, the Jack had dual propellers, which I found on-line that were printed in 3d. It was a nice touch and the first thing my neighbor mentioned that I got it right! The base is from a die-cast display case, wanted something easy and it has a clear cover.

[BornToBattle]

33 minutes ago, No_85_Gramps said:

Thank you! The sub is 1/350th Permit class, the Jack had dual propellers, which I found on-line that were printed in 3d. It was a nice touch and the first thing my neighbor mentioned that I got it right! The base is from a die-cast display case, wanted something easy and it has a clear cover.

Excellent! I’ve got a whole box load of 1/350 scale subs to make. Never made anything in that small of a scale. 1/72 is the smallest I’ve tackled but that was decades ago too when I had steadier hands. Any hints or advice on making a sub in 1/350 other than having steady surgeons hands and lots of patience lol? I have a lit magnifying headband with interchangeable lenses, Tamiya tweezers, etc. Have about 30+ kits of them to build, the Japanese I-400 I have PE railings as an aftermarket kit to install of and when I ever get around to building it.

[No_85_Gramps]

Not much to this particular sub model. Upper/lower 2 piece hull, dive planes molded in. Two other tail fins needed to be added, along with the conning tower, which was five pieces, and the propeller, which in this case was about five pieces. This particular model only needed a little bit of putty to smooth over the hull joint line. Only two paint colors, just what I was looking for to get re-engaged in model building.

[KiwiMcG]

Polikapov I-16 Work in progress, its been 80% complete for the last few months now. The kit instructions say gray, other sources say silver. The finish is actually an aluminium powder varnish (on actual aircraft). The paint mix I used was Mr Color Laquers,  40% gray and 60% aluminium giving a really interesting finish in natural light and a custom paint jar for future use. Oil staining applied but yet to be weathered, detailed and given a variation between gloss and flat finish.

[BornToBattle]

On 6/25/2022 at 4:10 PM, AKA_Big10 said:

Finished up another Eduard P-51D Mustang. This time a Korean War Mustang. 

Love the subtle panel lines on this! Especially when it comes to a bare metal finish it’s hard to get that “just right effect” I would imagine. Sometimes panel lines I’ve seen online strike me as waaaaay overdone. I have yet to do a bare metal model yet. How did you accentuate your panel lines with this particular one? Very well done.

[BornToBattle]

I’m calling this one done. Wasting too much time on it. 1/35 of 1917 Ford Model T modified for US Army and shown during heavy field testing. The rear tires had blocked that were lashed to the wheels in order to act as sprockets for the flexible treads. I used Liquitex and Tamiya acrylics.

 

Edited July 23, 2022 by BornToBattle

[Vishnu]

First model in 45 years.   Be gentle.  Still working on the platform. 

Edited July 20, 2022 by Vishnu

[No_85_Gramps]

Very nice! Weathering looks great!

[Vishnu]

[Hoots]

9 minutes ago, Vishnu said:

First model in 45 years.   Be gentle.  Still working on the platform. 

 

Be gentle? It looks bloody amazing!

[ZachariasX]

6 hours ago, Vishnu said:

First model in 45 years.   Be gentle.  Still working on the platform. 

Nice! That really looks great.

[KiwiMcG]

All stars... finished I-16 from ICM 1/32 and I-153 included as well. Great builds to try a variety of techniques. Learnt alot about them in process.

[40plus]

Well done. Love the Chaika!!!