Latest Box download not allowing Controllers to be set up

[pilotpierre]

At my wits end guys. Have a fresh down load on a new install of windows 10 on a new SSD. It will not allow all CH Combatstick, quadrant, Pro throttle and rudder pedals to be assigned in settings. It will accept some buttons but no axis. In addition the keyboard use in the game is spasmodic.

 

I received a reply from IL Support to delete the input folder and Updates folder and update the game. Have done this several times to no avail. 

 

I don't use CH Control Manager. The 4 controllers appear in the list of devices and disappear when I unplug them and reappear when I reconnect them.

 

Additionally in the Track ir settings I keep having to set up a button on the Joystick to center the view. This works for a while then reverts to the default F12 even though the joystick appears in the settings.

 

Would welcome all or any suggestions of what the problem might be and possible solutions.

 

I have been playing IL2 since the original was released many years ago and have never experience anything like this before.

 

I was using Windows 7 prior to the new SSD so I have now had 2 days experience with windows 10 so maybe my ignorance with it may be part of the problem.

[Thad]

The order in which windows lists the controllers may be a factor. I have a HOTAS system and my joystick seemed to have to be listed first, then the throttle.

 

Try getting one thing working correctly.... then add another and ensure it works. etc. Then again the order enabled may be a factor or the usb port(s) being used. Good luck. 

[pilotpierre]

Thanks for the response Thad. I disconnected all 4 controller then just reconnected the Joystick so it was the only one on the list. No joy unfortunately.

 

Now I can’t even get the the usual Joystick button to centre track ir. 

[pilotpierre]

Wahoo, you were partly right Thad. I unplugged all 4 controllers and pot them in different ports and all is well.

 

Muchos grassy arse. Now to go and assign everything.

 

Later, well managed to assign everything. Calibrated all the controllers but still got several buttons that don’t work. However after spending most of the day buggerising around trying to get it back to what it was. Ergo I will tackle it again tomorrow.

 

All 4 controllers are around 10 years old so maybe they are not 100% compatible with Windows 10??????

Edited August 30, 2019 by pilotpierre

[EAF19_Marsh]

12 hours ago, pilotpierre said:

All 4 controllers are around 10 years old so maybe they are not 100% compatible with Windows 10??????

 

I have a G940 about a decade old, so not sure if this was also an issue - I had to re-map a fair few things but not the primary control axes.

[pilotpierre]

Well now I have to unplug the 4 controllers and then reconnect them each time I start the PC. If I don’t all the axis work but the buttons don’t. (They all do in the calibration test, just not on BoX) until I unplug/replug.

 

Additionally a lot of the keyboard keys won’t work in the game and unplugging that and reconnecting doesn’t fix the problem.

 

I am tossing up whether or not to get cordless keyboard to see if that would be any better.

 

All I can say is #$&%*(“.

[Thad]

I concur #$&%*(“.  ?

[pilotpierre]

A friend has just suggested that because all 4 controllers, the key board and the mouse (as I found out after inputting the tank settings) work after everything is disconnected then reconnected that:

 

It may be that a file that saves settings is not doing it’s job. He suggested uninstalling the game and reinstalling MAY fix the problem.

He further opined that this may have been caused by replacing the input file with the one from my old sys 7 game immediately after installation?

 

Any thoughts on the above para by any of you computer gurus?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[unreasonable]

Feel for you - using a new (USB 3.00) powered hub for the controller (G940+pedals), rather than sticking them straight into the PC, has made my HOTAS function much more reliably.

 

They are not especially expensive, so that might be worth a try.    

[Dakpilot]

This thread may give some ideas

 

Not had time to look for proper answer, sorry

 

Cheers, Dakpilot 

[pilotpierre]

Thanks Dak. I will try that later. Right now I am fed up with the game after 2 whole days buggerising around with it. I Input all the settings again yesterday so need a break otherwise I may get sloppy and bugger it up again. This after deleting the complete Input folder and updating the game.

 

The other oddity I noticed is that the "current map" in the input folder is in Adobe Acrobat format. I am fairly sure that's is not right. If someone could check their Input folder and if their "current map" is not in the Adobe format I would really appreciate getting a copy.

 

 

[Hartsblade]

I had similar issues after 1st upgrading to Win 10. It has been awhile since that upgrade, but here are a few things I remember helping out.

 

1) It appears Win 10 have some issues with legacy (read older) hardware if they are plugged into USB 3 ports. Try plugging your legacy controllers into USB 2 ports. If you are limited in the number USB 2 ports try adding a hub and grouping them together.

 

2) Win 10 has a sleep setting for USB ports, and it is on by default. Try disabling USB sleep mode: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-prevent-windows-10-turning-usb-devices

 

3) If you find you get your controllers working, but still find yourself having to unplug/plug your hardware after each reboot, look into a switchable USB hub. That way you just toggle the hardware on/off easily. 

 

Just an example, not an endorsement ? https://www.amazon.com/USB-Hub-Charging-Individual-Switches/dp/B00VK9C24M/ref=asc_df_B00VK9C24M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309818716690&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6108654070419730705&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003677&hvtargid=aud-799727667774:pla-571687196075&psc=1

[pilotpierre]

Thanks for the response Hartsblade. I have an Antec Dark Fleet Gaming case that is 8 years old. I am not sure how to ibentify USB 2 Nd 3 ports but I assume it is the colour coding. It has 6 Black, 2 yellow and 2 blue. I assume because of its age the (majority) black are the USB 2 ports. 

 

Will try your no 1 first.

 

I have all but 2 plugged into black and 2 into blue, one of which is the quadrant. I will put that into an empty black on and let you know the outcome.

 

Edit. No 1 didn't work.

          No 2 buggered up everything, screen resolution and set everything back to default. Joy of joys

 

In fact it went right back to the original problem where settings would not accept inputs.

 

 

Edited August 31, 2019 by pilotpierre

[Hartsblade]

Sorry neither one of those worked for you. I'm also very surprised that changing the USB sleep setting had such an adverse result. 

 

Are you having these issues with other games as well? Have you run Windows Update since the original install? If not try it with your devices attached. Finally have to verified the Win 10 install to be sure there are no corrupt files? 

 

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4026529/windows-10-using-system-file-checker

 

And, have you looked for new drivers from the OEM website. After Win 10 launched most manufacturers posted new drivers for Win 10.

 

I hope you get it all sorted soon.

[pilotpierre]

I had the new SSD and Windows 10 installed in a computer repair shop. He updated everything including drivers . (CH products are plug and play, no drivers)

 

I don’t have any other games, however now Track ir won’t work until I pull the USB and reinsert it.

 

Additionally now Google Chrome won’t open.

 

I will ask the repair guy to come around tomorrow to have a look and see if he can come up with anything.

 

I am not going to try anything else now myself until I get a response from the Il2 support desk.

 

As previously stated I am right back to where this shit fight started after installing the game on windows 10, i.e. cannot input into key settings at all.

 

I am just about ready to uninstall and walk away from it. At 73 I don’t need the stress.

 

 

 

[Thad]

Below is the content of my input folder.

 

input.zip

Edited September 1, 2019 by Thad

[pilotpierre]

Unfortunately Thad in trying various suggestion I have lost the use of Google Chrome on the Pc now and I can’t open your file on my IPad.

 

But from what I see it is definitely not an Adobe Acrobat file but a map MAP file. I just did a restart after deleting the input file and it has still come come back as an Adobe file?

 

[pilotpierre]

Unfortunately Thad in trying various suggestion I have lost the use of Google Chrome on the Pc now and I can’t open your file on my IPad.

 

But from what I see it is definitely not an Adobe Acrobat file but a map MAP file. I just did a restart after deleting the input file and it has still come come back as an Adobe file?

 

Well the enigma continues. After disconnecting and reconnecting all the controllers again, it will now let me input, but no matter what controller I assign to something to it comes up As joystick 0. Ergo no controllers work in the game.

[pilotpierre]

It got the better of me Thad, I just opened rebooted the PC and opened up your input folder and that also has the current map in Adobe format. Is there any way to change it to the MAP format?

[Thad]

You have something changing the files on your computer. ?

[kendo]

From what you say the actual file extension of your current MAP file is still .MAP, so everything should be alright as far as the game sees the file.

 

(Windows does seem to have associated Adobe Reader as the programme to open .MAP files to read them. So anytime it sees a .MAP file it now expects Adobe to be the programme to open it for reading, which is why the fresh file from Thad shows under Adobe as well. But I don't think that is the cause of your issue, and it can be changed. The important thing from the game point of view is that .MAP is still the file extension.  )

 

I am using CH Combatstick and Throttle and had a strange issue about a year ago, after a Win 10 update, where nothing was being recognised at all. It turned out to be an obscure Win 10 security setting. I'm doubtful that this is your issue, but it's worth a try just to rule it out.

 

1. Open  Win 10 Settings panel (click on Windows symbol bottom left corner of your screen, then on the little gear symbol that should be second one up)

2. Click on 'Update and Security'

3. Click 'Windows Security' in the left hand menu

4. Then click 'Device Security' from the right hand area.

5. Click on 'Core Isolation Details'

6. For 'Memory Integrity' check that the selector is Off. It it is on, switch it to off.

 

See if that makes a difference. It's a long-shot and I don't want to get your hopes up, but this was the problem on my PC.

 

If it makes no difference for you, then set it back to what it was previously.

Edited September 1, 2019 by kendo

[pilotpierre]

I uninstalled Adobe, that fixed the current map problem, the extension is back to MAP.

 

I checked the Memory Integrity and that is off.

 

Just spoke to the tech who installed the new SSD and Windows 10 but is not game savvy and can’t help with the problem. He has offered to reinstall Windows 10 and put in a different SSD, however I don’t think that will fix the problem BoX is having recognising the CH products and having to unplug and reconnect all the devices including the mouse (that only has problems in BoX when assigning and using it to rotate the turret in Tanks.

 

 

[pilotpierre]

I just checked "devices.txt  in the input file and it has:

 

configId,guid,model|

0,%22946fd960-c9c1-11e9-0000545345440380%22,CH%20PRO%20THROTTLE%20USB|

1,%22946fd960-c9c1-11e9-0000545345440180%22,CH%20THROTTLE%20QUADRANT|

2,%22946fd960-c9c1-11e9-0000545345440480%22,CH%20PRO%20PEDALS%20USB|

3,%22946fd960-c9c1-11e9-0000545345440280%22,CH%20COMBATSTICK%20USB

 

yet the current.devices only has this:

 

ffEnabled=1&ffShaking=1&mouseAcceleration=0&ffForce=1&mouseSensitivity=4&mouseInvertYAxis=0&joystickFilter=0

 

 

 

 

[pilotpierre]

Finally got all the settings applied, however:

 

1.  Still have to disconnect and reconnect all 4 CH products USB's after turning PC off,

 

2..Even though the current maps ext has reverted back to .MAP after uninstalling Adobe I cant bring the maps up when flying.

 

Devs hoping you can assist with these as it is going to be a right pain every time I flash the PC up for No1 and its a real challenge navigating without a map for No.2

[unreasonable]

On 9/1/2019 at 8:08 AM, pilotpierre said:

Just spoke to the tech who installed the new SSD and Windows 10 but is not game savvy and can’t help with the problem. 

 

You have already paid him, I expect.....  "My" tech is games savvy and is on Win 10. I have asked him to take a quick look at this thread - he is travelling ATM. His comment was that the first thing you have to find out is whether you have a controller + Win 10 issue or a PC + Win 10 issue.  The best way to find out is by taking your controller and plugging into another PC which is Win 10, then see if it works.

 

I would just add that you could also download another game that uses controllers - there must be hundreds free to play (Rise of Flight) - and see if the problem is general or Il-2 specific.

 

 

Edited September 2, 2019 by unreasonable

[pilotpierre]

Hi Unreasonable,

 

I have now got all the controllers working. The bug bear now is every time I turn off the PC I have to unplug then reconnect all 4 controllers and the mouse USB’s before they will work in the game after restart and opening the game.

 

Reading through past threads a lot of people had controller problems in BoX when updating from W7 to W10. There were various work around used to get them going, none of Erich worked for me.

 

In my case I now realise the problem was not unplugging and reconnecting the USB’s prior to inputting the key mapping and then again every time the PC was started.

 

Many thanks for getting your friend to try and figure it out. If he can come up with a possible cause and solution I would be over the moon.

 

The other problem remaining is not being able to access the maps when flying because of the Adobe problem in the posts above. Adobe has since been uninstalled.

 

Would you be willing to send me a copy of your “current map” file from your Input file. Thad posted one for me but it got reverted to an Adobe file as soon as I opened it.

 

Thanks again for your input.

[unreasonable]

Untech sent me another one liner from his phone - "So many moving parts involved in this issue he just has to go through a process of elimination. His tech just needs to bring a Win10 laptop and USB hub to help him troubleshoot on site."   So I do not think he has an off the shelf solution, sadly.  Try this input.map....

 

 input.zip 

 

 

[pilotpierre]

Thanks, will give it the map a try later this arvo. We are off os Thursday so if the Support Devs haven’t come up with any ideas by then the Laptop and hub with a tech visit will be the go when we get back at the end of the month.

 

Will let you know how the map goes as soon as I try it.

 

There is nothing wrong with the devices themselves as they all test ok for axis and buttons in Windows

[pilotpierre]

Unfortunately the map still doesn’t display after extracting yours to my input folder.

[-332FG-Gordon200]

1 hour ago, pilotpierre said:

Unfortunately the map still doesn’t display after extracting yours to my input folder.

Click on the file folder to highlight it then right click and select Open With>Note Pad.

Have you checked the power management settings for your USB ports? Win10 'manages' USB ports for priority and optimization. You can do this in Device Manager.

[pilotpierre]

I thought I had posted this earlier but obviously not:

 

"I only have today and tomorrow before we head off os for three weeks. If I still havent heard back from the Support section (sent to them last Friday) by tomorrow morning I will try one more thing. However before doing so I would like some advice:

 

Backup the current "input" folder to the desktop.

Update the game

Replace everything in the updated game Input folder except the "Current Map.MAP" from the back up copy.

 

If I do the 3 steps above so am I likely to end up having to input all the key mapping for the 4th time in 5 days, or even worse end up back where this shit fight began?"

 

Gordon200, thanks for your response.

 

I had opened the current maps folder with Notepad, the contents are all there. I can only assume it’s not working now because it has been extracted from unreasonables zip file rather than part of an update direct from 1c.

 

If I check the power management settings as you suggest what will that do for me? All the device USB’s are in SATA2 ports.please Excuse my ignorance.

 

What are your thought on the above 3 steps I am contemplating tomorrow?

 

[Thad]

Try this: edit your default/current power plan and disable selective suspend.

 

Power Options->Advanced Settings->USB Settings->USB Selective suspend setting.

 

 

[Hartsblade]

6 minutes ago, Thad said:

Try this: edit your default/current power plan and disable selective suspend.

 

Power Options->Advanced Settings->USB Settings->USB Selective suspend setting.

 

 

I made that same suggestion way back at the beginning of this thread. I think he had some issues with it.

[pilotpierre]

Well I just removed the Input file and the contents of the updates folder and updated the game.

 

Lo and be hold, the Controllers now work and retain their setting and use after a restart. They didnt the first 2 times I did this several days ago??????

 

However:

 

1. The map still cannot be accessed

2. Now if I access settings prior to starting a QM the complete menu is there, but after starting a QM if I return to settings to do some tweaks the Video Settings do not appear in the menu. I have to restart the game to access them again.

 

So my take on the sorry week long saga is, my current copy of BoX is corrupted.

 

We are going os for 3 weeks tomorrow and I am running out of time to buggerise around with it anymore before we go. Besides which I am heartily sick of it. Ergo I will leave it until we return then uninstall it and start from scratch.

 

EDIT

NOPE SPOKE TOO SOON. All the axis inputs stay, buttons not until unplug etc with the exception of the Quadrant.

 

I remember now when I first installed BoX (on the New SSD with the windows upgrade to W10) and went to settings I got as pop up along the lines "new controllers are recognised, do you want to keep old settings". Because I was going from W7 to W10 I thought that was probably not a good idea. However I think I OK'ed it far the Quadrant that was first on the list but not the others. Maybe this is the root cause of the problem as the quadrant is the only one that does retain its settings. 

 

Hopefully I will bet the same pop up after reinstalling?????

Edited September 4, 2019 by pilotpierre

[XQ_Lothar29]

 

[pilotpierre]

I am pleased to report after 3 week os I returned, uninstalled BoX, reinstalled and all is working as it should. Obviously something was very wrong with the previous install. Now just the onerous task fine tuning all the settings to get it how I had it on Win7.

 

Thanks for all who gave advice on possible fixes.

[pilotpierre]

Well it appears all my troubles may have been 2 different causes. On top of a corrupt download the following:

 

When I turned the PC on today no USB ports were working. With a sinking heart I hit the restart button and Lo and behold they all worked. Turned the PC off  several times and back on again. Each time no Working USB ports, hit restart button and they were back.

 

Googled the problem on my IPad after shutting the PC down for the day and found it is a not uncommon problem when updating to Win 10. One of the solutions is to open up each hub in the Device Manager and uncheck (for each hub) the line “Allow the PC to turn off to save power.” It does this but doesn’t turn it back on when the PC is turned on again, except for restarts seemingly.

 

Will try  tomorrow and see if it works.

 

Any one else experienced this?

 

 

[jollyjack]

On 8/30/2019 at 7:28 AM, pilotpierre said:

Wahoo, you were partly right Thad. I unplugged all 4 controllers and pot them in different ports and all is well.

 

Muchos grassy arse. Now to go and assign everything.

 

Later, well managed to assign everything. Calibrated all the controllers but still got several buttons that don’t work. However after spending most of the day buggerising around trying to get it back to what it was. Ergo I will tackle it again tomorrow.

 

All 4 controllers are around 10 years old so maybe they are not 100% compatible with Windows 10??????

 

I used two tools in similar circumstances:

 

USBdeview to delete all unused USB drivers, and JoyID to change the USB controller IDs to what ID was used before, saves time IMO.

 

 

Edited September 28, 2019 by jollyjack
added pics

[pilotpierre]

Finally got it sorted thanks Jollyjack. Unchecking Quick Startup solved all the problems.