Logitech 3D sticks now junk. Thrustmaster T-16000 stick- can't recommend this enough

[Boaty-McBoatface]

Hey gents,

 

After 2 Logitech 3d pros crapping out with spiking in just a few months, I feel obliged to get word out there that the quality of these sticks from Logitech have gone down the drain. Had one of these sticks for a good few years before with no issues, as have many other users- however Logitech has now changed the circuit board and wiring inside to increase profits and the change has rendered these sticks pure rubbish now.

 

I just got a thrustmaster T-16000m and what can I say- I can't believe how much more you get for just playing a fraction more. No deadzone, scalpel precision and excellent feel. The level of control from the magnetic sensors and no deadzone is just night and day, and controlling the airplane is immediately so much easier- just make sure to set your deadzones on all axes to zero. I almost couldn't believe it myself, no deadzones whatsoever. A real pleasure.

 

Logitech will have you spiking all over the place with almost uncontrollable rudder and massive deadzone- I don't know how I put up with it, looking back. Pure junk the new Logitech 3D sticks; I had it apart several dozen times to clean the potentiometers and make adjustments but the problems keep coming back and getting ever worse, it's not worth the headaches.

 

Thrustmaster t-16000m, best low price stick ever. 4900JPY for the Logitech, 5900JPY for the Thrustmaster.

 

Regards,

 

McBoat

Edited January 8, 2018 by boaty_McBoatface

[Boaty-McBoatface]

Would like to ask the thrustmaster t16k users out there- what exactly should we use to oil or regrease the ball joint? I can see that socket may need it some time in the future

Edited January 8, 2018 by boaty_McBoatface

[Sokol1]

Just don't use any product (oil, grease...) based on petrol, this can damage plastic. 

 

The "best" product is Nyogel 767A - a dampening grease, but is difficult to find and a bit expensive.

 

But T.16000M came with plenty "red grease" on gimbal, probable will last more than the joystick.

 

Anyway for correct apply another product implicates in disassemble the base (with associated risks) and remove the existing grease, a "sticky" job. 

[Boaty-McBoatface]

Ok sokol1 thanks for that. I was just looking at the top of the ball joint that is readily visible and assumed something could be put directly down that top opening.

 

Good to hear, sounds like it won't be necessary to add anything.

Edited January 8, 2018 by boaty_McBoatface