Need help with Precision Flight Controls jumpy potentiometers

[Norman]

Hello all, 

 

I got myself a PFC Throttle Quadrant Console (https://flypfc.com/shop/flight-consoles/throttle-quadrant-console/) a few years back and love the action and build quality of the console, but have been having problematic potentiometer issues after about a year of use. They will usually start becoming jumpy and lose their linearity, making the throttle essentially useless.

 

I had the potentiometer PCB replaced under warranty but now after about a year it is exhibiting the same issue again. Now, i am thinking of doing some upgrading myself and I'm looking for help on this forum as my electronics knowledge and skills are limited. 

 

One option I can think of is to remove the potentiometers from the PCB and solder new higher quality ones in. I guess they have to have the exact dimensions as the old ones. Does anyone have recommendations of where I can get those potentiometers online that ships to Singapore? I learnt that the ohmage of the original pots are 100k. Must I get the pots of the same ohmage or can I also use 50k or 10k? I heard that there are industrial pots that are a lot more long lasting than normal ones.

 

Another option is for me to get new set of pots and forgo the PFC PCB and controller and swap them out with a Leo Bordnar. It will involve a little more work but may pan out better in the long run.

 

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

[Harfang]

Just get yourself a quality electronic cleaner and clean them. Spray them and slide them to clean them up.

[Sokol1]

This sliding pot is easy to find - 30/60 degrees "joy'pot" is that is really difficult or "impossible".

 

If this controller is USB could use 10-100k, linear (don't confuse with their sliding type) taper B.

 

- High the K value more subject to noise.

- Lower the K value more amperage is consumed from USB.

 

Look for pot from quality brands, e.g. Spectrol, Bourns, Alps... And to keep the  geometry of controls pot with similar physical size.

Edited December 1, 2017 by Sokol1

[Norman]

Thanks Harfang, for your suggestion. Yes tried that. Sprayed the potentiometers judiciously with cleaners but they have no effect.

 

Thank you for the info, Sokol. I managed to find some potentiometers with the exact dimensions on Mouser Electronics. I read the specifications sheet and they indicate that they are only rated to 15,000 cycles. Hopefully they will last. They are rated at 50k and not 100k. I'll wait till they arrive and will update on how they work. 

[sphinix]

do you per chance have a picture of the board in the radio stack ?, i am converting mine to USB; mmjoy2 or as any HID device. my original board has some Chips fryed and i would like to repair it to be able to understand the logic so that i can port it  

[Ltdan626]

Can you please link the exact potentiometer you used?  I am trying to find parts to convert an older PFC yoke and some rudder pedals using the Leo Bodnar board.  Lots of people have stated that this worked for them, however, I cannot find any specifics about which EXACT potentiometers they ordered.  I was thinking of trying to find a 100K ohm pot at 128mm long to replace the existing one.  However, all I can find is 10K ohm models.  I have read in other folks posts that these do not work very well and the higher resistance is better for this application.  Also I'm not sure whether to use a linear pot or not.  I know it needs to be 128mm long to match the existing slide pot.

 

I have never done this before, but I have a decent electronics knowledge and good soldering skills.  Any help from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

[Sokol1]

For wire in Leo Bodnar card you don't need only 100K potentiometer, can use 1 to 100K.

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/images/2BU0836A_06.jpg