Birdman Posted November 26, 2017 Posted November 26, 2017 Hey guys, I've got a question regarding the 190. In one of my past games in MP I had to run from a mig-3 (I know, don't laugh. He had quite a few mates coming after me too). I had some alt so I dove away hoping to leave the mig behind. After watching the replay I barely put any distance in the dive (I dove at 50ish degree down, combat power) but when we both leveled out he started to gain and ultimately got a critical hit. The ball was centered the whole time. I thought the FW190 could out run most early Russian planes. What is a good defense in the 190 ? My opponent was still too far to start scissors, I think I would have ended up without any energy had I tried that. To give some context, I successfully b'n'z a bomber arriving above friendly tamks and in retrospective the critical mistake I made is turning towards the possible position of the enemy instead of extending away after my dive and go towards friendlier skies to rebuild energy. That would have put way too distance between me and the fighters to make an interesting prey. Another painful experience in the long journey towards being half decent at sky fighting.
Barnacles Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 Hey guys, I've got a question regarding the 190. In one of my past games in MP I had to run from a mig-3 (I know, don't laugh. He had quite a few mates coming after me too). I had some alt so I dove away hoping to leave the mig behind. After watching the replay I barely put any distance in the dive (I dove at 50ish degree down, combat power) but when we both leveled out he started to gain and ultimately got a critical hit. The ball was centered the whole time. I thought the FW190 could out run most early Russian planes. What is a good defense in the 190 ? My opponent was still too far to start scissors, I think I would have ended up without any energy had I tried that. To give some context, I successfully b'n'z a bomber arriving above friendly tamks and in retrospective the critical mistake I made is turning towards the possible position of the enemy instead of extending away after my dive and go towards friendlier skies to rebuild energy. That would have put way too distance between me and the fighters to make an interesting prey. Another painful experience in the long journey towards being half decent at sky fighting. Odd. I would have thought you'd have been fine. Possible reasons are the MiG had higher initial speed. They are quite fast with radiators shut going full boost but a 190 should outrun them all things being equal. If you were in an a5 not shutting your outlet cowls could slow you down, as well as if you accidentally left manual prop pitch on and were bogging down the engine at low revs. 100 power is a 3min limit on the 190, so use it.
Wester Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 What is a good defense in the 190 ? Flying with a wingman. On another note, here is a wall of text from mission4today pertaining to FW-190 usage: FW Tactics: Quick Tips General Tactics by Hunde_3.JG51 (Kyrule) Full-switch servers benefit the Focke Wulf, the 190 is a great plane to bounce others in because it has good speed, high speed handling, and firepower. The 190 also has great all-around visibility, use this to stalk your opponent. Gain altitude whenever you can. Engage with an advantage, disengage if you lose it or get jumped. Split-s works great as climbing will get you shot and other planes will out-turn you. Keep the fight at high speed where your plane handles as good as anyone's, if not better. Learn high speed gunnery, it is much different that TnB gunnery. Learn to anticipate more while your opponent is manoeuvring rather than following. I recommend setting up a QMB with a couple A-5's against a bunch of Hurricanes. This will teach you about gunnery at high speed against a slower opponent. Use rudder corrections alot, it is part of high speed gunnery. If your opponent changes direction at the last moment you can kick your rudder at the last second and get a burst on him. This takes practice but with time it will be done unconsciously and will make you a much better shooter. And after awhile you will not even notice "the bar," I swear. Find your opponent first and stalk him. Don't fly straight at him as soon as you see him. Try to determine where he is heading and sneak in on him. Try to imagine what he sees and where his blind spots are. When diving in on him get as low as possible to stay out of sight, but don't sacrifice your speed advantage. Use wingman and friendlies, I can't emphasize this enough. The 190 is not a lone wolf plane but is an excellent 4 vs. 4 plane. Often you can simply out-run pursuers and let your buddies pick them off of you. As long as energy is equal or to your advantage, speed and high speed handling will keep you alive. If you don't have advantage, work to at least even it out then disengage. Don't use "auto" prop-pitch, use between 80-100% manual. 100% in level flight and climb, 80% in dive (or just ease up on throttle). Know other planes strengths, where they are faster and where you are faster. For example, drag a Mustang to the deck or up to 5,000m or so, in between 1,000m and 4,000m (and above 6,500m) he will be stronger. Knowing where planes are stronger takes alot of time and testing, but it is very useful if you want to employ tactics properly, especially if you want to disengage. I like to trim the nose down a good bit from start, I fly the 190 at high speed more often than not and I don't need the nose pulling up on me, this can really effect your gunnery if not accounted for, especially flying at 600-700km/h. Fire at very close range, don't fire from far off and alert your opponent prematurely during your attack run. In some, more manoeuvrable planes you want to scare them and force them to manoeuvre, not in the 190. Be accurate. Use high yo-yo's when making high speed attacks at slower opponents. Make your attack, pull up sharply, flip over on your back, look straight up (down at your opponent), wait until he flies beneath you, then dive down on him again. When attacking an opponent do not follow unless they are making gentle turns. If you are lining him up and he banks hard, simply break off and climb away. He has now lost energy and you have increased your advantage. Try to force him to evade and bleed energy. Not great for Hollywood movies but very effective at gaining an advantage. Always keep in mind that almost every plane will out-turn you in sustained turns, and almost every plane will out-climb you in sustained climbs. Never think you can out-turn someone, unless flying at very high speeds but this is more for defensive than offensive value. Never rely on climb either, with the Dora it is more acceptable. If you do try to climb away, do so at higher speeds than in most planes. The 190A likes to climb at around 350 or so km/h, don't climb below that speed. Remember also that above 2,000m your climb will start to fall off even more, though speed will increase. The 190 seems to like it around 1,500m and below, and between 4,500m and 6,000m. Head-ons are acceptable in the FW-190A, maybe the only plane in the game where this is the case. You should come out the victor in a head-on attack because of your excellent firepower and engine durability. More importantly your opponent often will be less than willing to go head-on and will take evasive action, so you simply climb up and use his manoeuvre against him. When going head-on I usually aim slightly high because the bullets/rounds will drop and because I want to force him down or to the side. This is one case where it is good to fire from farther out, don't worry about wasting ammo you have plenty. Evasive manoeuvres can be very effective at high speed. You should be going fast anyway, but if not dive, jink, and gain speed. Severe manoeuvres when an opponent is behind you, even to the point of blackout as long as you are aware of angle the blackout is induced at, can be effective because if he wants to follow chances are he will blackout also. Try to ride the edge and not black-out, this takes experience. If blacked-out make subtle manoeuvres because you will often still have minor control of your aircraft. FW-190 has more range than say, a 109. Don't take 100% fuel if you don't have too. On most online maps 50% is enough. I prefer to set convergence for cannons at 500m, the rounds/bullets leave your aircraft at a much flatter angle than say at 200m, keeping them more level in your gunsight and making deflection shooting easier. At 200m your rounds actually leave the aircraft at a slight downward angle, you don't need four cannons to hit in the same spot anyway. 500m also gives you a bigger hitbox, or more "spread." Look for the 109's. Focke Wulfs and 109's compliment each-other well. These two planes have different fighting styles and strengths and combining the two can only make both of you more effective. Don't fly around at 110% throttle when stalking for opponents. Again, no need for unnecessary heat. 100% throttle with WEP and radiator closed allows for very high cruise speed in danger areas without overheat except in extended climbs. Otherwise back it down a little but not too much, you need to stay fast, always. From another post I made awhile back:The only thing I would add is that when I see tracers I immediately apply full negative elevator (fully press forward on the stick). The 190 has good elevator response and this is usually enough to throw off your attackers aim long enough for you to perform your half-roll and dive. I like to very gently turn/jink during my dives just in case he is following close. The dive followed by a reversal (another half-roll and pull-out) is effective. Your only concern with this manoeuvre is that you have sufficient altitude and that you don't perform your reversal so late as to build speed past your critical limit.Another manoeuvre that can be effective when you don't have as much altitude and speed but have clouds nearby is a steep diving, fairly tight corkscrew. It is extremely difficult for anyone to hit you when performing this manoeuvre but you have to be careful with the stick. Again, this is effective when clouds are nearby, when you pull out of the corkscrew you may be vulnerable but the idea is to finish the manoeuvre in a cloud or very close to one.Also, if you have a plane that you cannot shake that handles as well as yours at most speeds (P-51, P-47, etc), even after you performed other manoeuvres, you can try a harsh, desperate manoeuvre that induces blackout. Just remember that even when blacked out you often still have minor control on your plane so don't just sit there, use gentle inputs on the stick to keep from being a static target. Also, be very aware of the angle that you induce blackout and where this will lead, you don't want to blackout when descending at anything but the slightest of angle. This is dangerous and you need alot of speed but if someone is stuck to you then it might be enough to save you or buy you time as they simply cannot follow without blacking out themselves. It sounds desperate, and it is, but it should not be ignored as this has saved me numerous times.From another post I made awhile back:As for diving in on opponent I prefer a fast, fairly sharp dive to a point slightly above and directly behind my opponent, from there I use a shallow dive to attack point. I dive sharply at the beginning so I can get down and out of sight. If you use a shallow dive and remain high above him you will likely be spotted.As for convergence I am one of the few that uses 500m in all 190's and 109's except for the 109E (I use 200m). This keeps your bullets/rounds much more level in the gunsight, they don't drop as quickly. The 190 has enough cannons that you don't need for them to hit all in the same spot. In the 109 it only effects vertical trajectory. I find deflection shooting easier at 500m because as I said the bullets/rounds are fired at a more level trajectory. In planes like the 109E, P-40, P-51, etc I set convergence at 200m because the concentrated firepower is needed more. I usually start shooting at 250m or under.Just wanted to clarify that diving sharply and then going into shallow dive is only used on unsuspecting opponents. Any time you are engaged with someone using slashing attacks you must "guess" where they will be, exactly as you said. Trying to get directly behind your opponent could cause you to take some very bad angles and lose precious energy. Also, another reason for using shallower dive at the end is that you will arrive at a slightly slower speed but at a better position, and this can help keep the 109's elevator from stiffening up as much if you need to make last minute corrections.It is best to shoot then climb/extend away. Don't follow him into turns unless they are very gentle. P-47 pilots often adhered to the rule that any turn greater than 90 degrees was unacceptable, and this holds true for the 190 as well IMO. I find a straight zoom climb followed by a Hammerhead preferable to a gentle combat/climbing turn unless there are others about who you do not hold a significant energy advantage over. In this case a longer extension/climb followed by a combat turn is probably your best bet.For the reasons I mentioned above it is easy to see why the 190 is an excellent plane to use when you have a wingman or wingmen, but it is not the best 1 vs. 1 plane unless you have a decent altitude/energy advantage. The utilisation of the hammerhead can be useful in low combatant encounters as well. If all else fails the 190 has excellent escapability with its great high speed handling, roll-rate, and speed at sea-level. If jumped by an opponent with a severe advantage a split-s into a dive works well as he will bleed his energy turning around (or require a much larger area/radius to perform his split-s), and if he is stuck to your 6 o'clock a split-s, into a jinking high speed dive, followed by another split-s (or variations of it) can be helpful in eliminating his advantage and supplying you with the needed space to simply out-run your opponent. Never simply fly straight in these manoeuvres, keep moving but do it gently so you do not bleed speed while performing them but rather you build it. Don't be predictable. If someone is behind you, the last thing you want to do is climb (presenting an easy target), and most planes will out-turn you, so your best bet is to dive/split-s and build speed quickly where you can use your high speed handling, roll-rate, and level speed to your advantage.More:In short the FW-190D is a better 1 vs. 1 fighter and allows for better "e" fighting due to its better speed, acceleration, and climb. Still, the FW-190A-9 is the best aircraft on full real servers IMO. It lets you hit, kill, and move on, increasing situational awareness. When I see a P-47 when I am in a Dora I cringe because I know it will take me awhile to finish him off and in the process making myself more vulnerable as I lose altitude and manoeuvre to kill him. The A-9 usually only needs one opening and spends less time focusing on his opponent. Also, the A-9 absorbs damage better then the Ta-152 and FW-190D, and it is a slightly smaller target. The A-9 is also more versatile, it is fast and is modelled with a bomb-rack. Therefore you can load up a 1,100.lb bomb, drop it, and have the same performance as if you never carried one. No other plane can be an effective ground attack plane with the speed to escape almost any plane, act as an extremely effective attack/bomber interceptor, and hold its own as a fighter in one package with a single loadout IMHO.Against Spitfires, Yaks, Laggs, P-39's, etc., simply use hit and run tactics below 7,000m and you are almost invulnerable. They are simply too slow to catch, you have a good speed advantage below 7,000m (or more). Often they will become impatient and break off, then I am the hunter. I often stay at the fringe of a fight or at the edge of my spotted opponents visual radius while gaining the needed altitude advantage. Then I attack. Do not get slow or use sustained climbs when Spitfires are in the area.Against La-7, you must stay high. Below 3,500m he is faster, turns better, climbs better, and retains energy better. You can lose an La-7 with a high speed dive and reversal if you ride to your plane's limit. Above 3,500m you have slight speed advantage and climb is more similar. At about 6,000+m speed evens out again. Do whatever it takes to get above your opponent and kill him, use team-mates when La-7's are around.Against P-51 you are faster up to about 1,000m and between 5,000 and 6,500m (using 100% prop-pitch). Do not stay at 2,000-4,000m with Mustang, his performance advantage is huge. Again proper setup is the key, find him first and get higher, don't engage otherwise. If in trouble get down low and leave him. Use escape methods mentioned above if in trouble, if you have the advantage it should just be a matter of avoiding the pieces.Hope this helps, there was more but I lost it. Sorry if anything is broken or it doesn't flow well as I put pieces together quickly.Oh, btw, maybe change the title to include FW-190 tactics so more can see.Good luck and good hunting! Hunde_3.JG51 (formerly kyrule) Comparative Tactics V P-51, P-47, Spitfire quote:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Originally posted by MOhz:what I also really like to see is a list of weak points of aircrafts, because for example a lot of aircrafts can be killed hitting the engine but then again there are exceptions.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------I'll throw in a couple I picked up over the years.P-51 - Rake the belly or the engine very good chance of stopping the propP-47 - rear from about 5 or 7 o'clock, aim for just below the canopy. You can usually Kill the pilot. If you're using the MK108s you can hit the wing root and the splash damage has a good chance too.Spitfire - Ailerons, blow them off the plane it becomes useless.For any plane the cockpit and engine will take them down pretty quick. Never attack from dead 6, always from some angle (above, below or side).I usually aim for the wingroots, you have a pretty good chance of killing the pilot, engine or taking a wing off. This is how I found out the P-47's Achilles heal. diomedes33 FW 190 Tactics by VW-Icefire FW190 tactics....let me tell you that I love this plane. My favorites are still the Spitfire and the Tempest is where it will be at for me when that arrives...but the FW190 is a great plane to learn.Here's a few tips:1) The roll rate of the FW190 gives it an impressive offensive and defensive ability. Don't use it for barrel rolls...use it to reverse direction quickly and put your guns on the enemy or to engage in a high speed maunder and quickly snap to the other side and away from the pursuer.2) Firepower is good to excellent. You need to learn how to shoot with this bird but once you do and you start landing hits from oblique angles its all over for the enemy. Shooting is made easier in PF due to the fact that the target is no longer obscured during firing.3) Stay fast. The FW190 hates being at 300 kph and trying to turn...if you are there you shouldn't be. Stay straight, stay fast, and try and be higher than your opponent. Do not get into turn fights...the longest you should hold a turn is 90 degrees or so. Generally do this with energy advantage...you'll expend energy and possibly position yourself for a killer shot. If not...break out, get speed, climb and try for it again.That's all I have to say. Generally these things work for Antons and Doras. They all have their quirks...just learn them and work at it. FW 190 Tactics by faustnik One thing that has been touched on by many is the 190As ability as a team fighter. The Wulf hunts best in a pack. While always sticking to B&Z tactics if possible, a four ship of 190As can hang with any other type of plane in a low altitude DF. The big advantages are roll rate and elevator authority. The 190 can't sustain a turn but, turns very quickly through 45 degrees. This gives the 190 the ability to change directions very quickly to engage a target. A pack of 190s performing scissors type manoeuvres is very difficult for an enemy group to deal with. Both sides will only be presented with short deflection shots but, the 190 with it's firepower and toughness has a big advantage.To get the most out of this type of fighting, you have to gain confidence in shooting at targets that you can't see. Most of the time, the target will be under your nose as you fire. This just takes practice but, eventually you will make these shots without thinking. Practice pulling the nose of the 190 through the target as you are firing. Don't be shy about wasting ammo, you've got a lot of rounds.As for the 190A's:Fw190A4: The easiest handling of all the 190s. Climb at 80% to 100% prop pitch. You can own Spit Vbs if you keep your speed up.Fw190A5: Gets a big boost in speed with NE boost. Looses a little manoeuvrability but, is more stable. Climb at 78% to 88% prop pitch.Fw190A6: Same as the A5 but added firepower. The SpitIX vs. Fw190A6 match is a great one!Fw190A8: This model gets better MGs and more armor, but, pays a heavy price in manoeuvrability. Climb at 78% prop pitch. Stick to BnZ only in the A8. Use long full throttle extensions to escape.Fw190A9: The A9 is heavy like the A8 but, climbs a little better and has a little more speed. You can mix a little more E-fighting in with your B&Z if you like risk taking. faustnik
Birdman Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 Odd. I would have thought you'd have been fine. Possible reasons are the MiG had higher initial speed. They are quite fast with radiators shut going full boost but a 190 should outrun them all things being equal. If you were in an a5 not shutting your outlet cowls could slow you down, as well as if you accidentally left manual prop pitch on and were bogging down the engine at low revs. 100 power is a 3min limit on the 190, so use it. I'm a rookie coming from the 109 and I didnt dare use the max power too long. I did a couple test runs on Berloga and was able to leave behind Russians quite ok with the a5. I need to try with the a3. Flying with a wingman. On another note, here is a wall of text from mission4today pertaining to FW-190 usage: FW Tactics: Quick Tips General Tactics by Hunde_3.JG51 (Kyrule) Full-switch servers benefit the Focke Wulf, the 190 is a great plane to bounce others in because it has good speed, high speed handling, and firepower. The 190 also has great all-around visibility, use this to stalk your opponent. Gain altitude whenever you can. Engage with an advantage, disengage if you lose it or get jumped. Split-s works great as climbing will get you shot and other planes will out-turn you. Keep the fight at high speed where your plane handles as good as anyone's, if not better. Learn high speed gunnery, it is much different that TnB gunnery. Learn to anticipate more while your opponent is manoeuvring rather than following. I recommend setting up a QMB with a couple A-5's against a bunch of Hurricanes. This will teach you about gunnery at high speed against a slower opponent. Use rudder corrections alot, it is part of high speed gunnery. If your opponent changes direction at the last moment you can kick your rudder at the last second and get a burst on him. This takes practice but with time it will be done unconsciously and will make you a much better shooter. And after awhile you will not even notice "the bar," I swear. Find your opponent first and stalk him. Don't fly straight at him as soon as you see him. Try to determine where he is heading and sneak in on him. Try to imagine what he sees and where his blind spots are. When diving in on him get as low as possible to stay out of sight, but don't sacrifice your speed advantage. Use wingman and friendlies, I can't emphasize this enough. The 190 is not a lone wolf plane but is an excellent 4 vs. 4 plane. Often you can simply out-run pursuers and let your buddies pick them off of you. As long as energy is equal or to your advantage, speed and high speed handling will keep you alive. If you don't have advantage, work to at least even it out then disengage. Don't use "auto" prop-pitch, use between 80-100% manual. 100% in level flight and climb, 80% in dive (or just ease up on throttle). Know other planes strengths, where they are faster and where you are faster. For example, drag a Mustang to the deck or up to 5,000m or so, in between 1,000m and 4,000m (and above 6,500m) he will be stronger. Knowing where planes are stronger takes alot of time and testing, but it is very useful if you want to employ tactics properly, especially if you want to disengage. I like to trim the nose down a good bit from start, I fly the 190 at high speed more often than not and I don't need the nose pulling up on me, this can really effect your gunnery if not accounted for, especially flying at 600-700km/h. Fire at very close range, don't fire from far off and alert your opponent prematurely during your attack run. In some, more manoeuvrable planes you want to scare them and force them to manoeuvre, not in the 190. Be accurate. Use high yo-yo's when making high speed attacks at slower opponents. Make your attack, pull up sharply, flip over on your back, look straight up (down at your opponent), wait until he flies beneath you, then dive down on him again. When attacking an opponent do not follow unless they are making gentle turns. If you are lining him up and he banks hard, simply break off and climb away. He has now lost energy and you have increased your advantage. Try to force him to evade and bleed energy. Not great for Hollywood movies but very effective at gaining an advantage. Always keep in mind that almost every plane will out-turn you in sustained turns, and almost every plane will out-climb you in sustained climbs. Never think you can out-turn someone, unless flying at very high speeds but this is more for defensive than offensive value. Never rely on climb either, with the Dora it is more acceptable. If you do try to climb away, do so at higher speeds than in most planes. The 190A likes to climb at around 350 or so km/h, don't climb below that speed. Remember also that above 2,000m your climb will start to fall off even more, though speed will increase. The 190 seems to like it around 1,500m and below, and between 4,500m and 6,000m. Head-ons are acceptable in the FW-190A, maybe the only plane in the game where this is the case. You should come out the victor in a head-on attack because of your excellent firepower and engine durability. More importantly your opponent often will be less than willing to go head-on and will take evasive action, so you simply climb up and use his manoeuvre against him. When going head-on I usually aim slightly high because the bullets/rounds will drop and because I want to force him down or to the side. This is one case where it is good to fire from farther out, don't worry about wasting ammo you have plenty. Evasive manoeuvres can be very effective at high speed. You should be going fast anyway, but if not dive, jink, and gain speed. Severe manoeuvres when an opponent is behind you, even to the point of blackout as long as you are aware of angle the blackout is induced at, can be effective because if he wants to follow chances are he will blackout also. Try to ride the edge and not black-out, this takes experience. If blacked-out make subtle manoeuvres because you will often still have minor control of your aircraft. FW-190 has more range than say, a 109. Don't take 100% fuel if you don't have too. On most online maps 50% is enough. I prefer to set convergence for cannons at 500m, the rounds/bullets leave your aircraft at a much flatter angle than say at 200m, keeping them more level in your gunsight and making deflection shooting easier. At 200m your rounds actually leave the aircraft at a slight downward angle, you don't need four cannons to hit in the same spot anyway. 500m also gives you a bigger hitbox, or more "spread." Look for the 109's. Focke Wulfs and 109's compliment each-other well. These two planes have different fighting styles and strengths and combining the two can only make both of you more effective. Don't fly around at 110% throttle when stalking for opponents. Again, no need for unnecessary heat. 100% throttle with WEP and radiator closed allows for very high cruise speed in danger areas without overheat except in extended climbs. Otherwise back it down a little but not too much, you need to stay fast, always. From another post I made awhile back:The only thing I would add is that when I see tracers I immediately apply full negative elevator (fully press forward on the stick). The 190 has good elevator response and this is usually enough to throw off your attackers aim long enough for you to perform your half-roll and dive. I like to very gently turn/jink during my dives just in case he is following close. The dive followed by a reversal (another half-roll and pull-out) is effective. Your only concern with this manoeuvre is that you have sufficient altitude and that you don't perform your reversal so late as to build speed past your critical limit. Another manoeuvre that can be effective when you don't have as much altitude and speed but have clouds nearby is a steep diving, fairly tight corkscrew. It is extremely difficult for anyone to hit you when performing this manoeuvre but you have to be careful with the stick. Again, this is effective when clouds are nearby, when you pull out of the corkscrew you may be vulnerable but the idea is to finish the manoeuvre in a cloud or very close to one. Also, if you have a plane that you cannot shake that handles as well as yours at most speeds (P-51, P-47, etc), even after you performed other manoeuvres, you can try a harsh, desperate manoeuvre that induces blackout. Just remember that even when blacked out you often still have minor control on your plane so don't just sit there, use gentle inputs on the stick to keep from being a static target. Also, be very aware of the angle that you induce blackout and where this will lead, you don't want to blackout when descending at anything but the slightest of angle. This is dangerous and you need alot of speed but if someone is stuck to you then it might be enough to save you or buy you time as they simply cannot follow without blacking out themselves. It sounds desperate, and it is, but it should not be ignored as this has saved me numerous times. From another post I made awhile back: As for diving in on opponent I prefer a fast, fairly sharp dive to a point slightly above and directly behind my opponent, from there I use a shallow dive to attack point. I dive sharply at the beginning so I can get down and out of sight. If you use a shallow dive and remain high above him you will likely be spotted. As for convergence I am one of the few that uses 500m in all 190's and 109's except for the 109E (I use 200m). This keeps your bullets/rounds much more level in the gunsight, they don't drop as quickly. The 190 has enough cannons that you don't need for them to hit all in the same spot. In the 109 it only effects vertical trajectory. I find deflection shooting easier at 500m because as I said the bullets/rounds are fired at a more level trajectory. In planes like the 109E, P-40, P-51, etc I set convergence at 200m because the concentrated firepower is needed more. I usually start shooting at 250m or under. Just wanted to clarify that diving sharply and then going into shallow dive is only used on unsuspecting opponents. Any time you are engaged with someone using slashing attacks you must "guess" where they will be, exactly as you said. Trying to get directly behind your opponent could cause you to take some very bad angles and lose precious energy. Also, another reason for using shallower dive at the end is that you will arrive at a slightly slower speed but at a better position, and this can help keep the 109's elevator from stiffening up as much if you need to make last minute corrections. It is best to shoot then climb/extend away. Don't follow him into turns unless they are very gentle. P-47 pilots often adhered to the rule that any turn greater than 90 degrees was unacceptable, and this holds true for the 190 as well IMO. I find a straight zoom climb followed by a Hammerhead preferable to a gentle combat/climbing turn unless there are others about who you do not hold a significant energy advantage over. In this case a longer extension/climb followed by a combat turn is probably your best bet. For the reasons I mentioned above it is easy to see why the 190 is an excellent plane to use when you have a wingman or wingmen, but it is not the best 1 vs. 1 plane unless you have a decent altitude/energy advantage. The utilisation of the hammerhead can be useful in low combatant encounters as well. If all else fails the 190 has excellent escapability with its great high speed handling, roll-rate, and speed at sea-level. If jumped by an opponent with a severe advantage a split-s into a dive works well as he will bleed his energy turning around (or require a much larger area/radius to perform his split-s), and if he is stuck to your 6 o'clock a split-s, into a jinking high speed dive, followed by another split-s (or variations of it) can be helpful in eliminating his advantage and supplying you with the needed space to simply out-run your opponent. Never simply fly straight in these manoeuvres, keep moving but do it gently so you do not bleed speed while performing them but rather you build it. Don't be predictable. If someone is behind you, the last thing you want to do is climb (presenting an easy target), and most planes will out-turn you, so your best bet is to dive/split-s and build speed quickly where you can use your high speed handling, roll-rate, and level speed to your advantage. More: In short the FW-190D is a better 1 vs. 1 fighter and allows for better "e" fighting due to its better speed, acceleration, and climb. Still, the FW-190A-9 is the best aircraft on full real servers IMO. It lets you hit, kill, and move on, increasing situational awareness. When I see a P-47 when I am in a Dora I cringe because I know it will take me awhile to finish him off and in the process making myself more vulnerable as I lose altitude and manoeuvre to kill him. The A-9 usually only needs one opening and spends less time focusing on his opponent. Also, the A-9 absorbs damage better then the Ta-152 and FW-190D, and it is a slightly smaller target. The A-9 is also more versatile, it is fast and is modelled with a bomb-rack. Therefore you can load up a 1,100.lb bomb, drop it, and have the same performance as if you never carried one. No other plane can be an effective ground attack plane with the speed to escape almost any plane, act as an extremely effective attack/bomber interceptor, and hold its own as a fighter in one package with a single loadout IMHO. Against Spitfires, Yaks, Laggs, P-39's, etc., simply use hit and run tactics below 7,000m and you are almost invulnerable. They are simply too slow to catch, you have a good speed advantage below 7,000m (or more). Often they will become impatient and break off, then I am the hunter. I often stay at the fringe of a fight or at the edge of my spotted opponents visual radius while gaining the needed altitude advantage. Then I attack. Do not get slow or use sustained climbs when Spitfires are in the area. Against La-7, you must stay high. Below 3,500m he is faster, turns better, climbs better, and retains energy better. You can lose an La-7 with a high speed dive and reversal if you ride to your plane's limit. Above 3,500m you have slight speed advantage and climb is more similar. At about 6,000+m speed evens out again. Do whatever it takes to get above your opponent and kill him, use team-mates when La-7's are around. Against P-51 you are faster up to about 1,000m and between 5,000 and 6,500m (using 100% prop-pitch). Do not stay at 2,000-4,000m with Mustang, his performance advantage is huge. Again proper setup is the key, find him first and get higher, don't engage otherwise. If in trouble get down low and leave him. Use escape methods mentioned above if in trouble, if you have the advantage it should just be a matter of avoiding the pieces. Hope this helps, there was more but I lost it. Sorry if anything is broken or it doesn't flow well as I put pieces together quickly. Oh, btw, maybe change the title to include FW-190 tactics so more can see. Good luck and good hunting! Hunde_3.JG51 (formerly kyrule) Comparative Tactics V P-51, P-47, Spitfire quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by MOhz: what I also really like to see is a list of weak points of aircrafts, because for example a lot of aircrafts can be killed hitting the engine but then again there are exceptions. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll throw in a couple I picked up over the years. P-51 - Rake the belly or the engine very good chance of stopping the prop P-47 - rear from about 5 or 7 o'clock, aim for just below the canopy. You can usually Kill the pilot. If you're using the MK108s you can hit the wing root and the splash damage has a good chance too. Spitfire - Ailerons, blow them off the plane it becomes useless. For any plane the cockpit and engine will take them down pretty quick. Never attack from dead 6, always from some angle (above, below or side). I usually aim for the wingroots, you have a pretty good chance of killing the pilot, engine or taking a wing off. This is how I found out the P-47's Achilles heal. diomedes33 FW 190 Tactics by VW-Icefire FW190 tactics....let me tell you that I love this plane. My favorites are still the Spitfire and the Tempest is where it will be at for me when that arrives...but the FW190 is a great plane to learn. Here's a few tips: 1) The roll rate of the FW190 gives it an impressive offensive and defensive ability. Don't use it for barrel rolls...use it to reverse direction quickly and put your guns on the enemy or to engage in a high speed maunder and quickly snap to the other side and away from the pursuer. 2) Firepower is good to excellent. You need to learn how to shoot with this bird but once you do and you start landing hits from oblique angles its all over for the enemy. Shooting is made easier in PF due to the fact that the target is no longer obscured during firing. 3) Stay fast. The FW190 hates being at 300 kph and trying to turn...if you are there you shouldn't be. Stay straight, stay fast, and try and be higher than your opponent. Do not get into turn fights...the longest you should hold a turn is 90 degrees or so. Generally do this with energy advantage...you'll expend energy and possibly position yourself for a killer shot. If not...break out, get speed, climb and try for it again. That's all I have to say. Generally these things work for Antons and Doras. They all have their quirks...just learn them and work at it. FW 190 Tactics by faustnik One thing that has been touched on by many is the 190As ability as a team fighter. The Wulf hunts best in a pack. While always sticking to B&Z tactics if possible, a four ship of 190As can hang with any other type of plane in a low altitude DF. The big advantages are roll rate and elevator authority. The 190 can't sustain a turn but, turns very quickly through 45 degrees. This gives the 190 the ability to change directions very quickly to engage a target. A pack of 190s performing scissors type manoeuvres is very difficult for an enemy group to deal with. Both sides will only be presented with short deflection shots but, the 190 with it's firepower and toughness has a big advantage. To get the most out of this type of fighting, you have to gain confidence in shooting at targets that you can't see. Most of the time, the target will be under your nose as you fire. This just takes practice but, eventually you will make these shots without thinking. Practice pulling the nose of the 190 through the target as you are firing. Don't be shy about wasting ammo, you've got a lot of rounds. As for the 190A's: Fw190A4: The easiest handling of all the 190s. Climb at 80% to 100% prop pitch. You can own Spit Vbs if you keep your speed up. Fw190A5: Gets a big boost in speed with NE boost. Looses a little manoeuvrability but, is more stable. Climb at 78% to 88% prop pitch. Fw190A6: Same as the A5 but added firepower. The SpitIX vs. Fw190A6 match is a great one! Fw190A8: This model gets better MGs and more armor, but, pays a heavy price in manoeuvrability. Climb at 78% prop pitch. Stick to BnZ only in the A8. Use long full throttle extensions to escape. Fw190A9: The A9 is heavy like the A8 but, climbs a little better and has a little more speed. You can mix a little more E-fighting in with your B&Z if you like risk taking. faustnik Thanks for that! I'll have a good read
=EXPEND=Dendro Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 Be careful not to dive too steep (although 50 degrees seems ok) .... I was able to haul in 190's if I stayed slightly high and then dove when they tried to climb again. The problem with a 190 is there is not much you can do if you get jumped other than to scissor the bandit.... easier said than done. The Russian lasers are also a death sentence because they can snipe you from wayyyy back. Once you have a bit of damage you are pretty much done.
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