Yak and LA5 engine cowl/shutters

[SEE1947]

Oil and Rad I understand but I see two other 'engine cowl shutters' assignments available and associated wth several ac types in brackets. Are these the same as the oil and water cowling assignments or are they something different?

 

How can you tell how open or closed the oil and water cowls are in expert mode (I have both assigned to rotaries so assume half way is 50% but thats a bit too much of an assumption for me)?

 

I would like to go into MP full realism at some point but experience tells me that complete control of engine management is essential.

 

Fully familiar wth the CSP and keeping RPM within specs but any tips regards keeping the Yak1 and LA5 engines from overheating would be welcome, thanks.

would be welcome, thanks.

[OrLoK]

Sorry to hop on this but id also like to know how to know optimal mixture as in expert one cant see the exhaust colours as well as OPs questions.

 

I too am trying to grapple with CEM.

[Inkophile]

The inlet and outlet cowl shutters are separate things. For example La-5 has both an oil radiator, and inlet and outlet cowl shutters. I'd recommend keeping the controls separate from the oil and water radiators to cover for all eventualities. The controls are listed as "Engines inlet cowl shutters (I-16, La-5, Ju 52)" and "Engines outlet cowl shutters (La-5, Ju 88, P-40)".

 

In the La-5 there is no cockpit indication of how open they are.(unlike the oil radiator, which is indicated by the black-handled stick on the left of the pilot's seat). They are controlled by the two wheels on the right side of the pilot's seat which you can see move, but they have no indication. However the outlet cowl shutters are easy to see from the cockpit even without moving the head.

 

On the La-5 you should always leave the inlet shutters fully open unless going into long dives because of the risk to overcool the engine. In those long dives you should fully close it, and in cold weather you might want to fly with it just partially open. Adjust cylinder head temperature primarily by use of the outlet cowl shutters. If going into combat and you need short-term speed you can close all shutters and the oil radiator, but you need to watch your temps so you don't cook the engine. The inlet shutters produce very little drag though, so the gain from closing them isn't great. It's the outlet shutters that are the big drag-bandits.

 

On the I-16 you adjust the cylinder head temperature with the inlet cowling only, but it reacts a bit faster than the La-5 to throttle and speed changes, so got to keep your eyes on it.

 

Can't remember off the top of my head how to set them for the P-40, and not a clue about the Ju 88 or Ju 52.

[SEE1947]

Thanks,  forgot the LA5 is aircooled and not familiar with it.       I discovered in my first MP sortie that enabling the HUD gave updates on various aspects of the engine management, cowl positions, etc.   But I have no idea wether this is because of server settings and wether  it was a full real server .   Anyway, apart from having no idea where the action was and spending an hour just sightseeing at 6000m, my engine (Yak1b) lasted fine........

[Maple_X]

Sorry to hop on this but id also like to know how to know optimal mixture as in expert one cant see the exhaust colours as well as OPs questions.

 

I too am trying to grapple with CEM.

 

For LaGG-3, Yak-1 (and Pe-2 I suppose) , M-105 engine mixture is about below.

 

Blue exhaust color at 2700RPM:

altitude  summer winter (stalingrad map 12:00)

0m          75-85  95-100

1000m  75-85  95-100

2000m  75-85  95-100

3000m  75-85  95-100

4000m  70-80  80-85

5000m  55-65  60-70

6000m  45-55  45-55

*at 2200RPM and higher than 3000m, -20 is blue exhaust mixture.

 

I think mixture should be -10~+20% of above value.  My simple mixture setting is below.

altitude summer winter

0-3000m  80-100  90-100

4000m  70-90  80-100

5000m  60-80  65-85

6000m  50-70  50-70

*at 2200RPM and higher than 3000m, set -20.

[OrLoK]

Thank you!