Saitek vs CH rudder pedals

[=NVA=SunGirl]

Hello guys.

 

Which brand of rudder pedals would be better for IL-2?

I have heard that the Saitek pedals are not as good at the CH, But i've also heard that the CH is too close together.

What would be your recommendations?

[OrLoK]

I also had this problem last month, which to choose from two type which didnt overly impress.

 

I went a bit mad and ordered a pair of MFG crosswinds.

 

IMHO I'd rather pay more and have a bit of kit that will last a decade than a lot for something plasticy and not known to give all end users ultimate happiness.

 

YMMV

[Sokol1]

Saitek will present problems (QC build, spike in potentiometers, broken plastic pieces, and no replacement parts outside of warrant) years before than CH.

 

CH more common issue is eventual bad contact in potentiometers connections, since there is not used solder, but easy to fix.

 

Not that CH is "the best", but between the two is the more wise/durable option, despite their "vintage" look and outdated electronics. 

 

BTW - And with any of then don't try assign their pedal brakes for "Wheel brakes" for Russian planes, this will "bork" Luftwaffe/P-40, i-16 "tip-toe brakes".

Edited April 25, 2017 by Sokol1

[Retnek]

Saitek rudders are (were) ok imho - used mine often for over 5 y now. It's plastics, so one should be a bit careful with them, certainly they can't stand a choleric character. But they are robust enough for a 180-pound-user, the mechanics show a bit more tolerance now, but still far away from being worn out. Brakes did fine all the time, the detectors are ok, never had any trouble with spikes, growing dead zones etc. Yes, it's a budget product, but if you care for it a bit, you can expect a solid performance for less than 20 € a year.

I've used game-port-rudders before, better mechanics, but a lot more to care for dead zones, calibration etc.

Tested better pedals at my friends installations from time to time,too. Only once or twice a CH-rudder, neutral memories on these compared to the ones by Saitek. No question, there are much better full-metal rudders, if you can find some for 100 € ...

Edited April 25, 2017 by 216th_Retnek

[BeastyBaiter]

Can't comment on Saitek pedals, don't think I've ever actually seen a pair in person. I'm currently using CH Pro Pedals, had them about 2-3 years and they work well so far. The ruder pot is exposed inside the main plastic case, so once every few months I have to pull it apart and blow the pet fur off of it. Other than that minor issue, they've been satisfactory from a functional standpoint. I don't find the pedals too close together, but they are angled poorly for under desk usage (they are made for a low seat with legs stretched far ahead like a plane or car rather than sitting at a normal desk). I had to pull my desk about a foot out from the wall to get the pedals far enough forwards to use. The pedals themselves are also a bit clunky. Though the toe brakes are very smooth, the actual rudder axis is a bit rough and no amount of lubrication or wear seems likely to change that. It doesn't stick anywhere, it's just rough feeling. The whole thing feels cheaply made even though it's fairly robust and works well. I suppose that describes CH products as a whole, look and feel cheap but actually pretty well made.

 

I should note that I use a Saitek X-55 and have for the same 2-3 year time period as the pedals, no issues with it. I had an X-52 Pro for 8 years prior to that and it still worked well when I swapped for an X-55. Never had a bad experience with Saitek, just didn't buy their pedals since the CH ones were a whole lot cheaper.

[=EXPEND=Tripwire]

Replaced my Saitek pedals with MFG Crosswinds after QC issues in the Saiteks. 1 RMA and then a failed toe brake that I fixed myself.

 

Wish I had not wasted money on the Saiteks first time round.

[Sokol1]

 The ruder pot is exposed inside the main plastic case, so once every few months I have to pull it apart and blow the pet fur off of it. 

 

In the next cleanup put a tape over the opening in pot case - wheres the wires is plugged, no more fur inside.

[Bearfoot]

I initially had all Saitek gear: X-55 HOTAS throttle and stick, pro pedals, etc.

 

Now, I have no Saitek gear.

 

Every one of them developed problems within 8 months to a year. The throttle buttons died or spiked or became loose over time. The pedal wheel brake broke etc.

 

Fact is, while they were working, they worked pretty well. The ergonomics were not great ... but serviceable.

 

So I think if you see this as a (probable) short-term thing, get the Saiteks --- they are wider-spaced than the CH.

 

Otherwise CH, but yes, you have to live with the closer-spaced pedals.

 

Best of both worlds (and even better): MFG ...

[Sokol1]

Or - To stay in "entry level" price category, get Thrustmaster TFRP - is more cheap (~$80) than CH and Saitek, but more closer-spaced than CH, is like Cessna 172 pedals, ~ 2" apart.

Edited April 27, 2017 by Sokol1

[BlitzPig_Bill_Kelso]

I used a pair of CH rudder pedals for 15 years and they were reliable and did the job. They were still working when I gave them to a friend.

 

I upgraded to the crosswinds as others have mentioned and never looked back. Great piece of kit they are and well worth the money.

[THERION]

Hi folks,

 

I first started with first Thrustmaster Rudder - absolutely ugly, but sturdy and heavy. After 2 years of enjoyment the pots went erratic and finally stopped working.

 

Then I bought the Saitek Rudder. Feels a bit cheapy but worked for 2 years and broke. Tried to fix it and it worked again for another year. But finally broke definitely.

Just bought the same one last month and I'm happy with it - still feels cheapy, but they're inexpensive. Hope they will last a little bit longer, but the next one will be something

like Crosswind or VBK...

 

Cheers

Edited April 28, 2017 by Therion

[Ryanair_Walshie]

On 4/25/2017 at 1:51 PM, Sokol1 said:

Saitek will present problems (QC build, spike in potentiometers, broken plastic pieces, and no replacement parts outside of warrant) years before than CH.

 

CH more common issue is eventual bad contact in potentiometers connections, since there is not used solder, but easy to fix.

 

Not that CH is "the best", but between the two is the more wise/durable option, despite their "vintage" look and outdated electronics. 

 

BTW - And with any of then don't try assign their pedal brakes for "Wheel brakes" for Russian planes, this will "bork" Luftwaffe/P-40, i-16 "tip-toe brakes".

Do you know how to fix this “borking”. I have this exact issue.  Finally found something about it.  

[DD_Perfesser]

I started with CH pedals. We all talk about trashing some part of our rig but those CH pedals are the only thing of mine that actually flew out a 2nd story window. Internal short caused no end of mystery problems with my PC.

Had Saiteks for at least 5 years after that. Performed well but just as imprecise as the CH's. Sold to a friend, used for a year and sold to someone else.

Treated myself to Crosswinds a year ago. They are worth the money.

Edited February 16, 2021 by DD_Perfesser

[Sokol1]

16 hours ago, Walshie said:

Quote

BTW - And with any of then don't try assign their pedal brakes for "Wheel brakes" for Russian planes, this will "bork" Luftwaffe/P-40, i-16 "tip-toe brakes". 

Do you know how to fix this “borking”. I have this exact issue.  Finally found something about it.  

 

In IL-2:GB (Bo"X") you can't assign pedal brake pad (right or left) for "wheel brakes".

 

Why?

 

Because "differential brakes" - press "wheel brakes" and move rudder for brake right or left wheel is modeled for all planes of the game, no mater if an Spitfire or P-51, what is helpful for people with just "3-in-1" stick with twist rudder and don't have rudder pedals.

 

So if you assign an pedal brake pad, e.g. right for "wheel brakes", when flying a plane with "toe brakes", e.g. P-51, when try brake only right wheel, will brake both wheels. ?

 

In DCS you can use this brake "cheater" because "wheel brakes" work only for planes without "toe brakes", e.g. Spitfire, MiG-15, 21.

 

Só leave the "wheel brakes" in a joy or throttle button and brake pedals only for "right and left wheel brake".

 

Edited February 16, 2021 by Sokol1

[ST_Catchov]

5 hours ago, DD_Perfesser said:

We all talk about trashing some part of our rig but those CH pedals are the only thing of mine that actually flew out a 2nd story window.

 

Lol. We've all been there .... or seriously considered it.

 

My Saitek pedals are still working okay after much abuse and little care. And long periods of neglect and dust collecting. I have no idea how good or bad they are compared to the expensive stuff, but as a relatively casual player I'll say this, they are much better than a twist stick! 

[DD_Perfesser]

One thing about the Saiteks is they have to be on a solid surface. I they sit on carpet you can push hard enough to deflect the bottom plate and one of the sliders will jump out of the track.

Also the bottom plate is symmetrical that you can reverse to have the rollers bear on a new surface if you find they're developing a bump near the center spot. Just need to open up the wire feed hole a bit.

[Beazil]

I've owned both.  The Saiteks are better.  The CH's are bulletproof but narrow.  No issues with the Saiteks after 15 years or so.  I cannot comment on Thrusmaster's new entry level pedals, but it's really a preference thing.  Narrow for me is not my preference.

Stepping up from these options gets exponentially more expensive.  Vkb's or Virpil Ace pedals with one axis would be the next step up in terms of price/quality (by alot from what I understand, but haven't yet taken the plunge), then the mighty Crosswinds and up.  

[J2_Steve]

I currently run a set of Slaw's 109 pedals, one of the first sets he made. Rock solid after 7 years of hard use.

 

But if I was after new pedals and budget was a constraint, I'd be looking at Virpil's Warbirds. As a mainly WWI flier and Spit and Hurri pilot when I do occasionally delve into WWII, €199 is not a bad price and does all I would need.

 

Like I said I have had the Slaw's since 2014 and have never used the toe brakes