CH Pro Throttle spiking

[1Sascha]

I guess I'll just try to pick this community's collective "brains" as well. Already posted about the issue on the CH Hangar, but I didn't get a lot of responses.

 

I bought the Pro Throttle new roughly 2 years ago and its throttle axis has pretty much been "spike-y" since day one. Not a big issue in some games I play where you can simply reduce the throttle axis' sensitivity to remove spiking.

 

But both in BoS and DCS, I can't for the life of me get the in-game throttles to rest at most power-settings. In DCS, the in-game throttle in the cockpit is constantly "jittering" around for example and in BoS I can't reliably set my throttle to the top values of, say, continuous or combat/climb-power. It will nearly always alternate between two values, jumping back and forth between 74 and 75% for example.

 

The thing is that I've already set upper and lower deadbands in the keymapper to compensate a bit and to make sure I get "throttle off" and "full throttle" settings in the game. And in the keymapper, the control-surface thingy is jittery as well. The orange line indicating actual axis-input jumps around just as much as the white control surface. And once I'm in the cockpit, I can't get stable power-settings  at certain points, especially in the upper third of the throttle's range of travel where precision would be helpful to set the engine precisely to stay just within continuous or combat settings..

 

It has been suggested that this could either be down to loose wiring inside the throttle, so I've opened it up and found that it looked pretty much perfect in there. The wires looked ok and there were no moving parts "pushing" against the wires or the pot when I pushed the throttle through its full range of motion.

 

Another suggestion was that I might be getting too little power on my USB-ports, so I tried all of the six connectors my MoBo has (Asus Z87 Plus, they're all USB 3.0, BTW). Didn't change a thing. Plus the two axis for the mini-stick seem to work as they should ... if the device was getting too little power, shouldn't *all* axis have similar issues (not just the throttle-axis?).

 

Anyway: I've just recorded the throttle's behavior in DXTweak so you can see what's going on:

 

 

 

X and Y are the mini-stick, Z-axis is the throttle. And that's just me pushing the throttle-lever to different settings, then taking my hand off the device to let it jitter away.. :D

 

 

DCS: In-Cockpit-Throttle behavior visible starting around 1:30

 

BoS-Keymapper behavior

 

 

 

 

S.

Edited July 13, 2016 by 1Sascha

[Sokol1]

Ideally, replace the potentiometer, CH used to sold then for ~10$ (in the past, don't know actually), is easy, basically "PnP", no solder involved, and only require a small Phillips screwdriver as tool.

 

http://www.ch-hangar.com/forum/index.php/topic/7609-replacement-pots/

 

No software solution (deadzones, filters...) will cure a hardware defect properly.

 

Meanwhile you can: clean the potentiometer inside, use some cleanup electronic spray, and press the tabs that plug the wires in pot terminals with pliers, or apply solder in then, maybe have a bad contact there.

[MaxVonDayGlow]

Some people have resolved the issue with a powered USB hub. That would eliminate the USB ports on your motherboard from being the cause.

[1Sascha]

Well.. I guess then I really did get a faulty potentiometer in a brand new throttle?

 

 

 

I might open it up again first and re-check the connections. Taking out the pot would be another option if it's as easy as you say. Soldering is a no-no for me. Don't have a soldering iron and never did it before in my life, anyway.. :D

 

I think I'll also try calling CH support on this one. Don't think I still have the invoice, but trying can't hurt.. bought it off amazon, so perhaps they still have electronic proof of the purchase.. :/

 

 

 

 

Some people have resolved the issue with a powered USB hub. That would eliminate the USB ports on your motherboard from being the cause.

 

Yeah, that's what they told me on the CH Hangar as well. I just threw away an old powered USB-hub I still had lying around.. silly me.. :D

 

But like I said: Shouldn't all axis be affected by an unstable power-supply to the USB-port? The mini-stick works fine... it's just the throttle that's been spiking since the day one.

 

 

S.

Edited July 13, 2016 by 1Sascha

[MaxVonDayGlow]

Well.. I guess then I really did get a faulty potentiometer in a brand new throttle?

 

 

 

I might open it up again first and re-check the connections. Taking out the pot would be another option if it's as easy as you say. Soldering is a no-no for me. Don't have a soldering iron and never did it before in my life, anyway.. :D

 

I think I'll also try calling CH support on this one. Don't think I still have the invoice, but trying can't hurt.. bought it off amazon, so perhaps they still have electronic proof of the purchase.. :/

 

 

 

Yeah, that's what they told me on the CH Hangar as well. I just threw away an old powered USB-hub I still had lying around.. silly me.. :D

 

But like I said: Shouldn't all axis be affected by an unstable power-supply to the USB-port? The mini-stick works fine... it's just the throttle that's been spiking since the day one.

 

 

S.

 

 

The mini-stick is a lot smaller than the pot being used by the throttle axis. They are not identical in size or construction, so I think you are comparing apples to oranges with regards to power requirements between the axi.

 

A powered hub (that you can return to the store if it doesn't resolve it) is an easy test/fix if you don't mind a trip or two to the store.

[Lensman1945]

Have you tried giving the spade connectors to the pot a squeeze with some pliers to tighten them up?

 

That cured a similar problem I had with mine a couple of years ago.

[1Sascha]

The mini-stick is a lot smaller than the pot being used by the throttle axis. They are not identical in size or construction, so I think you are comparing apples to oranges with regards to power requirements between the axi.

 

A powered hub (that you can return to the store if it doesn't resolve it) is an easy test/fix if you don't mind a trip or two to the store.

Oh, I don't mind that ... I just have my doubts that it can be this easy.. :D

 

I just shot CH's support an email.. let's see what they have to say on the matter. But a powered USB-hub would definitely be preferable to going into the bowels of the throttle again.

 

 

 

 

Have you tried giving the spade connectors to the pot a squeeze with some pliers to tighten them up?

 

That cured a similar problem I had with mine a couple of years ago.

 

Another good tip. They looked pretty much flawless when I inspected them (as did the entire interior, pot was looking all shiny and brand-spanking new), so I held off on the pliers.. maybe I shouldn't have... :/

Edited July 13, 2016 by 1Sascha

[Sokol1]

Well.. I guess then I really did get a faulty potentiometer in a brand new throttle?

 

Will be not the first case...

[1Sascha]

Customer support already answered and I had to write another lengthy mail to describe what exactly was going on because the guy couldn't access the three YT-videos I sent him in my first mail..lol.

 

Said they don't repair outside of warranty but immediately offered to send me a replacement pot free of charge. Nice!

 

Of course: I still don't know if the pot really is the issue here, but there's not much more a company located half a world away can do to help at the moment.

 

 

 

S.

[1Sascha]

Got another email back from support and the guy said that he doubts it's a matter of the throttle not getting enough juice from the USB-port. He said that since it's only the throttle axis acting up (while the mini-stick seems fine) he suspects it's a bad pot. I guess I'm going to have to take that free replacement pot and hope that I'll be able to swap it out.

 

Does anyone know if I need any sort of special tools for that procedure?

 

 

S.

[Soarfeat]

Hey Sascha,

 

You will need a phillips head screw driver for the four screws under the rubber pads at the bottom of the throttle base. Once open you can use either a small fine flat head screw driver or a pair of needle nose pliers to remove and replace the wires for the potentiometer. As always be careful with pulling on the connectors,the wires are pretty thin. For me I had just added a small bit of solder to the connectors and this resolved my problem. 

Cheers--sf 

[Sokol1]

.... small bit of solder to the connectors and this resolved my problem.

 

Yes, if he don't have tool/skill to make solder, take the joystick to some electronics shop or car audio install shop and ask to do this, is very simple and will cost little.

Edited July 14, 2016 by Sokol1

[LLv34_Vellu]

I have also this kind of problem with my CH's Pro pedals. I replace a potentiometer and after that pedals works again.

My pedals is almost ten years old that I think that the potentiometer of yours throttle is broken wery quickly.

[coconut]

Il2 BOS and BOM have a filter option that reduces jitteriness. It worked for my throttles.

[1Sascha]

Il2 BOS and BOM have a filter option that reduces jitteriness. It worked for my throttles.

Interesting.. so that option will affect all controllers, not just the stick?

 

Is there any way to set it individually for different devices? I don't want my stick (which has HALL-sensors and works great) to become too unresponsive by increasing the filter for all devices...

 

 

 

Yes, if he don't have tool/skill to make solder, take the joystick to some electronics shop or car audio install shop and ask to do this, is very simple and will cost little.

 

I'll definitely look into that too. Don't know anyone with soldering skills, but how hard can it be to find an electronics-store? :D

 

How about electrically conductive paste or glue instead of soldering? Like "Wire Glue"?

 

Edited July 18, 2016 by 1Sascha

[Sokol1]

This "glue" can be a good solution. The in game "noise filter" is just a workaround for a fault hardware and can't be set for a individual controller. Better fix the hardware.

 

But, if CH will send a new pot' for you don't use the glue/solder now, because will be a problem for remove the old potentiometer latter.

[KG200_Volker]

If you like check this and the next post that explains

 

http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/22017-ch-quadrant/?p=360381

 

http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/22017-ch-quadrant/?p=361067

 

http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/20548-vjoy-personal-joystick-curves-setup-ffb2-and-others/?p=323520

[MaxVonDayGlow]

A CH user on reddit (Pure_Awesomeness) wrote a CMS script that averages the input from an analog axis and sends a jitter free signal to games.

 

Reddit Thread

https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/4wl1ii/remove_all_jitter_from_your_ch_products_with_this/

 

CMS Files and instructions

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bxolnix8ukgRb1IyLVU3eGFTSXc

 

I tested the code with both my Pro Throttle and Throttle Quadrant, and it cleans up the jitter. Using the script I no longer see the controls "jiggle" in the cockpit and I can fine tune the percentages when changing pitch, rad, oil, mixture, etc.

[1Sascha]

A CH user on reddit (Pure_Awesomeness) wrote a CMS script that averages the input from an analog axis and sends a jitter free signal to games.

 

Reddit Thread

https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/4wl1ii/remove_all_jitter_from_your_ch_products_with_this/

 

CMS Files and instructions

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bxolnix8ukgRb1IyLVU3eGFTSXc

 

I tested the code with both my Pro Throttle and Throttle Quadrant, and it cleans up the jitter. Using the script I no longer see the controls "jiggle" in the cockpit and I can fine tune the percentages when changing pitch, rad, oil, mixture, etc.

 

 

Oh... my... God..

 

You, sir, are a saviour..

 

I just tried this solution and it actually *works*.

 

Since the "jitters" were worst for me in DCS, I've made a little before/after video in the Dora-9 to demonstrate the effect the script has on my throttle:

 

 

Thanks again for posting the link! I don't have a reddit account so sadly I can't thank the guy who wrote the script.

[Sokol1]

You "fix" - temporarily - the problem, but not the cause... 

 

CH will not send a replacement pot for your free of cost?

[1Sascha]

You "fix" - temporarily - the problem, but not the cause... 

 

CH will not send a replacement pot for your free of cost?

Yeah.. they will. But I don't trust my ability to replace the pot. I'd rather not take the whole thing apart as long as I can use a "software-solution" ..