Dzachau Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 I'm new to flight sims and IL*2. I bought the Fighterstick USB joystick and am getting started with the game. I have been going through the tutorials on taxiing and taking off. I have learned about the importance to pull the rudder to the left to offset the engine torque so the plane does not go in circles on the ground. Trouble is I can't figure out how to control the rudder with my new joystick, or with the keyboard. Can someone let me know how to obtain rudder control with my Fighterstick? Thanks, Dave
Yogiflight Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 The stick should be turnable around its vertical axis, that is what normally is used for rudder.
BlitzPig_EL Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 The CH Fighterstick USB does not have twist rudder control, or any other provision for rudders. It is meant to be used with a set of rudder pedals. 1
SharpeXB Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 CH makes excellent gear. Get a set of the Pro Pedals to go with your stick. Mine have been going strong for six years.
Sokol1 Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) ... with "1999 electronics". Dzachau If you bough only the joystick, for now need use rudder on keyboard - awkward, only incremental option is available, is need press and hold until the desired rudder amount - but will help in taxi, takeoff - not for gunnery, or maybe try set rudder control in one of joystick HAT's: HAT left - increase rudder for left HAT right - increase rudder for right HAT up (or down) - reset rudder for center position If you bough CH Fighterstick and PRO throttle can use the "mini-stick" on PRO Throttle as rudder control, as this use axis and have spring to always return to center. Of buy a set of rudder pedal (from 90$ to ~600$ in USA), is not necessary be the same brand, modern flight games accept several controllers. Here I did a resume rudder pedal options in the market (in the quote). http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/22748-good-joystick/?do=findComment&comment=363088 Edited July 13, 2016 by Sokol1
1Sascha Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) CH makes excellent gear. Get a set of the Pro Pedals to go with your stick. Mine have been going strong for six years. I'm still using my gameport-CH Pro Pedals (on a GP to USB converter) and they work great. Yeah.. they're a bit spike-y now (I don't dare to open them up to clean the pots ), but I find them much better than my back-up pedals (Saitek Pro Flight). And yes: The CH Fighterstick has no "twisty-grip". The design comes from a time when that feature didn't exist yet and CH are basically still producing the same designs they've been making since the early/mid 1990s. Which is a bit of a bummer, IMO. I love my Pro Throttle, but if that thing had a "trim-dial" on it, and a non-spiking sensor for the throttle-axis, it would be a lot better still .. To elaborate a bit further on Sokol's point about rudder-pedal options: Seeing how all pedals will set you back at least $100 - 130 (new) and what you're getting for that price (plastic construction, old-fashioned pots that will eventually spike on you), I would probably recommend either buying a good used set or holding off and saving up a bit of cash until you can afford some of the more high-end pedals out there. The VKB-ones are "only" $250 and they make the CH Pro Pedals look like a toy. All-metal construction and contact-less sensors will probably mean you'll never, ever have to worry about mechanical issues with those things. The only drawback that I can see with them is the (apparent) lack of toe-brakes. Or do they have toe brakes? Not sure. Whereas plastic-construction and old-fashioned pots are almost guaranteed to cause some sort of issues down the road. Heck: My Pro Throttle's throttle-sensor has been giving me spikes pretty much from day one - whereas the Hall-sensors in my Sidewinder FF2 are still working just as well as they did when that thing was new 13 years ago. And I've opened up both my Saitek pedals (to remove the terrible center detent) and my Logitech Momo Racing wheel's pedals (to fix an issue with a pot) and I've seen just how flimsy these things look on the inside. I'm actually amazed that my ancient Pro Pedals still hold together mechanically after nearly 20 years of life.. :D S. Edited July 13, 2016 by 1Sascha
MaxVonDayGlow Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) I'm new to flight sims and IL*2. I bought the Fighterstick USB joystick and am getting started with the game. I have been going through the tutorials on taxiing and taking off. I have learned about the importance to pull the rudder to the left to offset the engine torque so the plane does not go in circles on the ground. Trouble is I can't figure out how to control the rudder with my new joystick, or with the keyboard. Can someone let me know how to obtain rudder control with my Fighterstick? Thanks, Dave You can use the CH Control Manager software to do some pretty cool things. Here is a link to an example of adding rudder input to the X-axis (aileron) input for coordinated turning, take off and landing. http://www.ch-hangar.com/forum/index.php/topic/6469-coordinated-rudder-without-rudder-pedal-input/ I am sure the regulars at the CH Hangar can help you get it working with your Fighterstick. Edited July 13, 2016 by HooliganS3
Sokol1 Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) http://www.ch-hangar.com/forum/index.php/topic/6469-coordinated-rudder-without-rudder-pedal-input/ This remember that game have similar option, the "Rudder assist" in "Realism" options (Pilot assistance) - but with use limited to NORMAL and CUSTOM modes. The VKB-ones are "only" $250 and they make the CH Pro Pedals look like a toy. All-metal construction and contact-less sensors will probably mean you'll never, ever have to worry about mechanical issues with those things. The only drawback that I can see with them is the (apparent) lack of toe-brakes. Or do they have toe brakes? Not sure. Ah, the "toe brakes" - the most important feature in aircraft rudder pedals... No, VKB T-Rudder (metal construction, ball-bearings, MaRS (GMR) contactless sensors, USB Controller 14 bits, BTW - 64 times more than 8 bits used in "1999's" CH controllers) don't have "Toe Brakes"... like IRL planes like LaGG-3, YAK-1, La-5, IL-2, Mig-3, Pe-2, Mc-202... Spitfire, Hurricane, Blenheim, G.50, Br.20 (all in last IL-2 "incarnations") don't have, their rudder pedals controls only... surprise: the rudder. They brake though a lever in control column (in game this lever can be a key or joy button), and use rudder bar movement to act a valve for distribute the brake force for right or left wheel if needed. Surprise #2: in IL-2 BoS/BoM even planes that in RL have "toe brakes" - actually Luftwaffe and P-40 - can have brakes controlled in the same way that is done for the above planes - a smart game concession for people with "twist rudder" - and no "toe brakes" - joysticks, probable the majority in game target public. Edited July 13, 2016 by Sokol1
1Sascha Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 "1999's" CH controllers LOL.. I think you're being to generous here. My Pro Pedals are probably more like "1996", and even back then they had been around for a while .. Meh... just because the Russians and the Brits didn't use toe-brakes doesn't mean it's not a good idea to have them. IIRC, nearly all modern planes have toe brakes and are capable of differential braking. And hey.. I did say that it's the only drawback that I can see with those pedals. They look plenty sexy and very sturdy. $250 is either way too cheap for these things or the plastic pedals offered by Saitek or CH are way too expensive at $130 - 140. S.
Sokol1 Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 Well, will cost only ~35$ more to have "toe brakes" in "high end" pedals.
1Sascha Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 Well, will cost only ~35$ more to have "toe brakes" in "high end" pedals. Yeah.. those look great too. I'd love to upgrade all my HOTAS-stuff from plastic to metal. I've used a friend's Simpeds once and the difference to my "toy"-pedals was unbelievable. And while I'd usually swap my stick out first, I can't get myself to retire a perfectly good Sidewinder. So maybe it'll be new pedals before the Gladiator Pro or the Gunfighter..
Dzachau Posted July 14, 2016 Author Posted July 14, 2016 Thanks to everyone for the feedback! I will be trying to get off the ground with the help of all your input!! Dave
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