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What does one need to know and what skills & tools does one need to build a physical switch which maps to some cockpit function in ROF/BOS?


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FlyingNutcase
Posted

Hi Folks,

 

I'm interested in taking the first step towards a basic simpit - not a replica cockpit or anything hardcore like that - just a box with a bunch of switches which can map to ROF (so presumably BOS) cockpit functionality.

 

I don't have much of a background in electronics, just a latent interest; neither do I have a lot of spare time.

 

Your thoughts are welcome...

Posted

I think a good way to start would be to dismantle a keyboard. Once you got the "working parts" which detect all the keys hit, you should be able to replace that by other switches or buttons and Voila.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

A very basic knowledge of hand tools- to cut holes etc.

A very basic idea of electricity is helpful- not totally essential

The ability to solder is useful.

 

Tools, a drill, file and a hacksaw are probably the minimum, and I would add a soldering iron, some wire snips and maybe some kind of small vise as being food things to have. Quite honestly most should be around the house somewhere,

If you own a cheap multimeter/continuity tester then that would be a bonus.

Probably the most important is an area to work in where any 'significant other' won't throw a hissy fit WHEN you make a little mess :biggrin:

 

You would be well advised to get one of these boards

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=180

As it involves no soldering at board end. and is  simple regarding plugging up.

You could always use an old joystick board- soldering and trial and error here :P

 

While some of the guys here go 'a bit ' further it might be worth scanning through

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=81&page=1

 

Seriously almost anyone with opposable thumbs should be able to get a simple switch working and fitted in a plastic 'project box'

 

 

  • Upvote 2
Posted

+1 for the bodnar product, Made mine three or four years ago and haven't looked back.

hotas003sm.jpg

 

I've also got my trim on a separate box using a 10 turn pot for elevator and a vernier dial, it works quite well. Although I'm using the older system that needed a matrix board soldered up the new ones are just plug in the wires.

 

Cheers!

Posted

+1 for the bodnar product, Made mine three or four years ago and haven't looked back.

hotas003sm.jpg

 

I've also got my trim on a separate box using a 10 turn pot for elevator and a vernier dial, it works quite well. Although I'm using the older system that needed a matrix board soldered up the new ones are just plug in the wires.

 

Cheers!

 

Wow, Skoshi_Tiger, that's a great piece of kit!

Posted

If you want to program the buttons to give keystrokes you can use Joy2Key. I use xpadder http://xpadder.com/ it is quite versatile and cheap.

Posted (edited)

Besides the cited JoyToKey and Xpadder you can use SVmapper  -  his "mapped key on press" and "mapped key on release" functions for the same button allow make a toggle switch (ON/OFF) act (in game) like a real one, ie switch up = lights ON, switch down = lights OFF.

HIDmacros do the same.

 

Alternative for USB controller: DSO boards.

 

http://simrace.hgsitebuilder.com/circuits

 

If you dont plan use axis, DSD 32 button controller is a good for start, no diode is need, an cost less than BU0836X (similar features, but handle 8 axis too) and have free shipping.

 

Sokol1

Edited by Sokol1
LLv34_Flanker
Posted

S!

 

Lot of nice info, thanks a lot! Been planning to use a Bodnar circuit so could make my CH ProPedals use USB instead of gameport. Those dongles "gameport to to USB" do not work well enough.

Posted

+1 for the bodnar product, Made mine three or four years ago and haven't looked back.

hotas003sm.jpg

 

I've also got my trim on a separate box using a 10 turn pot for elevator and a vernier dial, it works quite well. Although I'm using the older system that needed a matrix board soldered up the new ones are just plug in the wires.

 

Cheers!

That looks great, good job!

Posted (edited)

S!

 

Lot of nice info, thanks a lot! Been planning to use a Bodnar circuit so could make my CH ProPedals use USB instead of gameport. Those dongles "gameport to to USB" do not work well enough.

 

I've got an old set of Thrustmaster Elite game port rudder pedals that I've hooked up to the Bodnar board. It works great for a set of pedals I bought to run Jane's US Navy Fighters!  I ran a new cable down to the pedals (I was keeping the original in case I wanted to get the pedals back to original). 

 

On my board, each axis connector has three pins, a signal, ground and reference (I assume it will be the same on the newer board). These were wired to the three connectors on the pot. the order of the signal and the reference determines weather you will need to invert the axis of the pedals when you are configuring your controllers in game. (If you don't want to have to invert, you just have to swap the signal and reference pins over - if that makes sense) Because you have the reference line, the pedals don't need to be configured for full left/right when your setting up the controller. 

 

I'm not sure how the toe breaks on the CH pedals works, They may just be momentary switches in which case you'd just wire them up as buttons or if they use a pot then you'd have to wire them up as separate axis. That would take three axis in total for the rudder and each toe brake. ( My thrustmaster pedals don't have toe brakes :(  )

 

It'd be good to hear how you go with the conversion.

 

Cheers!

Edited by Skoshi_Tiger
  • Upvote 1
LLv34_Flanker
Posted

S! 

 

 Skoshi, thanks for the input. Much appreciated! :) The CH ProPedals should have pots on toe brakes as they can be used in either flight or driving mode. Will take a look when the soldering and destroying my stuff....ehum..modifying them :D

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