Weathering Help

[Tyberan]

I was wondering if anyone can help me. I like skinning and would like to get better at it, i used to make my own skins for the original game and delved into RoF as well. I usually take advantage of templates because frankly I'm a lazy sod and just like to colour in and love doing the weathering (used to do scale models now do RC aircraft instead).

 

Anyway I've gone through a few of the templates provided by Jason from the dev team. First off they are great but I'm scratching my head at some of the affects that have been made in regards to paint chips. 

 

For instance on the Lagg template paint chipping is achieved by two different layers, light and heavy chipping. This is self explanatory and easy to do myself.

 

But on the most of the german planes such as the Stuka and the FW190, the paint chipping is achieved by I'm assuming erasing the camo layers down to the base metal layer. There in lies the question, how the hell did the original skinners making the template get two different camo layers with the exact same chipping positions.

 

I would prefer to use the base metal layer for the chipping colours, and erase multiple camo layers but have the chipping in the same positions for each layer. Is this done through masks?

 

I'm trying to achieve some well weathered Stukas by using grime layers etc.

 

[Yakdriver]

your assumption is quite off...

 

play around with the layers, switching them on and off.

 

you will see that the paint chipping layer(s?) contain grey colors.

 

there is no base metal layer towards which the eraser function is working, erasing the colors top to bottom - quite the opposite.

There is a base layer of grey, and on top of that come the camouflage layers, and on top of that a Grey "chipping" layer

 

but of course nothing keeps you from doing it the other way around - creating a base layer of metal/steel/aluminium, then painting that, then applying the weathering and the panel lines, and then removing the paint (paint only) to get the metal/aluminium/steel layers to show.

 

How you reach your target is up to the individual artist.

[Jaegermeister]

Also if you duplicate a layer that already has "chipping" over a base metal layer, you can use the magic wand selection tool and then the fill bucket tool with the new color. It will fill around the existing chips. Then you can go back and clean up the feathered edges.

[TG-55Panthercules]

 

 

there is no base metal layer towards which the eraser function is working, erasing the colors top to bottom - quite the opposite.

There is a base layer of grey, and on top of that come the camouflage layers, and on top of that a Grey "chipping" layer

 

Actually, the Stuka template (for example) does have a base layer called "bare metal" on which everything else is overlaid, indicating that some level of erasure of areas of the upper levels may be involved in achieving a chipped paint over bare metal look..

 

But yes, there are several other layers involved in the way the templates achieve the chipping effect, and there are a number of ways for the users to play around with them to achieve similar effects.

[Tyberan]

I might just do the easiest solution and create a chipping layer, using various greys and brushes to get the desired effect. 

 

Thanks guys, I will definitely use the wand tool though for other things.

[Yakdriver]

Actually, the Stuka template (for example) does have a base layer called "bare metal" on which everything else is overlaid, indicating that some level of erasure of areas of the upper levels may be involved in achieving a chipped paint over bare metal look..

 

But yes, there are several other layers involved in the way the templates achieve the chipping effect, and there are a number of ways for the users to play around with them to achieve similar effects.

 

ah! the stuka! i won't touch that PSD with a ten foot keyboard extension cord!

surprises me though - lagg does not have that, nor does the 109 or the yak.

*checks*

Hmm, yea - sort of bare metal.