G940 R1 and R2D2 Fixed

[HagarTheHorrible]

I've had a 940 since it came out.  Along with many others the R1 and R2 rotaries spiked and eventually failed altogether.  The first fix was to take out the cable restraining screw, that worked for a short time, then the spiking returned, however only at the fully forward throw of the throttles, so I simply attached a plastic block to stop the throttles going fully forward and recalibrated.  That resolved the problem for several months more however that also eventually failed.  The G940 was now out of warranty so I took the throttle apart but TBH I felt a little intimidated so I left well alone, put the throttle base back on and simply used other rotaries instead.

 

That was fine for a sim like RoF that didn't have too many control inputs but with BoS just around the corner I felt it was worth taking another look.  I'm glad I did because, after a little fiddling I now have the R1 and R2 rotaries working again.

 

The fix was relatively easy , a couple of simple tools, a dish for the screws and just observing how it came apart, so it could be reassembled.  Fortunately there were no nasty surprises or tricky bits.

 

The problem that needed fixing was a break in the thin black wire going up the handle to the rotaries and buttons (if anyone else has tried this fix it would be interesting to know if it is always the same wire, which presumably it is) I simply stripped off part of the black rubber cable protector to locate the break and then spliced in a short replacement section (taken from an old Ethernet cable) and wrapped it in insulation tape. All in all it probably took about 45 minutes, not rushing just taking my time.

 

So if your using a G940 that has duff R1 and R2 rotaries and you feel reasonable happy about taking apart the throttle and splicing in a small piece of wire then I highly recommend it, all the normal disclaimers not withstanding.

[SeaW0lf]

Thanks for the input. I have a G940 and I just did what you did, to place a plastic block and recalibrate. I was going to take out the restraining screw, but I heard that it might be a short term solution. If everything else fails, I'll try to fix the cable break.

 

Cheers,

[Pudfark]

Thanx HTH...much appreciated.

 

I too, have had the 940 since day one.....spiking made me shelve it after a month of use.

Time to blow the dust off.....try your repair.....and give it a whirl.

 

[ST_ami7b5]

I simply stopped to use those throttle rotaries, bought Saitek Pro Flight Quadrant

for radiator, mixture & prop pitch + 6 key mappings...

Edited November 5, 2013 by ST_ami7b5

[ImPeRaToR]

I simply stopped to use those throttle rotaries, bought Saitek Pro Flight Quadrant

for radiator, mixture & prop pitch + 6 key mappings...

that thing is shit too though, you will get spiking after a few months.

[ST_ami7b5]

Have it over 1 year and for rad, mix, prop its still ok

[ImPeRaToR]

mine did exactly as described, as did several others used by les hellequins pilots so maybe you are lucky, or they improved the quality of the pots.

[Matt]

Well, they have a two year warranty.

 

I just bought one of those Saitek Throttle Quadrants, because i guess i'll need more than the three axis of my Warthog throttle. Atleast for the Soviet planes.

 

I only hope that it will get spikes during the warranty, but from experience, that will most certainly happen.

[Venturi]

Simple fix, assuming wires are not broken yet:

 

1. Take the base off by removing the 4 rubber pads and the 12 screws

2. Gently remove upper from lower but keep all wires attached

3. Rotate throttle levers forward and note how little slack is in the wires leading to R1 and R2 (and other buttons) for this motion

4. Note how the wires coming immediately out of the main white plug are looped AWAY from the proper direction, IE not towards the base of the throttle levers

5. Bend these wires gently immediately as they come out of the white plug, so that the loop is gone, you will notice that this gives approximately 3/4" more travel for the wire as it enters the pivot point for the throttle levers

6. Enjoy spike free G940

 

If your wires are broken already because of the repeated stretching they undergo, you may need to simply replace them, or splice at the point of break. You can do this by scavenging an old ethernet cable and utilizing soldering/shrink wrapping skills. Or, you can disassemble the whole unit and just unsolder the original wires and replace. I did not have to do this, and my unit seems to have some use on it.

 

It's the best force feedback system out there, and it is worth the bit of extra effort. Don't be scared off, it took me exactly 30 minutes to fix it with a small phillips screwdriver and a little thinking.

 

PS - I don't always edit, but when I do, it's because I left out a simple conjunction.

Edited March 7, 2014 by Venturi

[Mars27]

Did the rewiring with a length of ethernet cable trick here about 6 months ago. Worked flawlessly up until I dropped the throttle just before X'mas. Just had to take the bottom off and put the wire that had worked loose back. Not difficult if you have a bit patience.

 

I was going to type a list of what each of the wires map to but I remembered I put the list in the bottom of the throttle for safe keeping....

[Soarfeat]

Hey all,

MasterTec at Sim HQ did a great tutorial pertaining to issues with the G940 throttle, shows some great wiring diagrams that should help. I completly rewired my G940 throttle quad using some old floppy disk ribbon--worked great, however I have migrated over to the CH stuff for now--still have the G940 and may revisit it  ------ Here is the link-------http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3323724/1

cheers---sf---

[Sokol1]

In short, a definitive fix for G-940 Throttle need:

 

A dedicated USB controller for axis (Teensy 2.0 is inexpensive) - a good idea is hook stick rotaries in this controller too, for the same reasons, idem rudder.

- Leave throttle/buttons and HAT on original controller for programming via Logitech software.

New wires for pot's > controller.

And eventually new potentiometer's.

 

Sokol1

Edited March 13, 2014 by Sokol1

[Venturi]

Another easy fix for rudder pedal spiking - the three metal slip-on type connectors on the rudder potentiometer can move, making intermittent contact. Easy fix.

 

To access, simply take off the bottom panel with a small philips screwdriver, removing all 10 or so little screws from the bottom only. This gives you complete access. Then, simply solder the slip on connectors together. Presto, no more spiking. You can always unsolder them at a later date if needed.

 

The problems with this unit seem to stem mostly from minor wiring issues, and not from software or serious hardware flaws......

[cjreyrey]

Hello Forum!

 

I am selling an extension cable for the throttle´s short one!! I made it in China and they made me produce 50!!! So I just want to recover my investment. See:

 

http://www.ebay.es/itm/221586157017?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

 

Sorry if this is forbidden at the forum, if i am deleted, i fully understand!

 

Kind regards!

[sektorao]

Any way to contact u/cjreyrey and see if he has any of those cables left for sale?