Is there any better Joystick as the MS Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 ???

[Sandhill]

My MSFFB2 Force Feed back seems to have stopped working on the lateral axis (ailerons, roll control......not sure if that is the X or Y axis on a joystick).  Can anybody help?  Is there a good tutorial on disassembly and fixing this thing?

 

Have you tested it to the point of being really sure that it IS your stick?

 

Extreme_One pointed this out in another thread

 

http://www.fs-force.com/support.htm#ForceTest

 

ForceTest does a pretty nice job of scrubbing down to the issue...

Edited April 24, 2014 by Arnaud_Amaury

[Matt]

So why on Earth is no other producer capable to create a similar well done FFB stick?

 

I think most of them would be capable. But it's just a niche product for a niche genre.

 

The G940 was not a big success i guess (otherwise Logitech wouldn't have stopped producing it without a sucessor in sight), so the competition probably doesn't think that it's a very good idea to make any investments in that area (i don't blame them).

 

Thrustmaster is sticking to high price (Warthog) or low price range (T.Flight, T.16000M, i wouldn't be surprised if they would face out the T.Flight soon). A FFB Hotas would most probably compete with their own Warthog.

 

Microsoft of course stopped completely, Logitech is down to one very low end stick.

 

CH is sticking to their proven sticks and those still seem to sell well enough.

 

Saitek is the only mainstream producer which i would have expected a new FFB stick from, but after their X-65F experiment (i can't possibly imagine that that was a success) and their new X-55, i highly doubt they will create something new that soon.

[sturmkraehe]

I've followed the development since it was first being mention.   I absolutely hate the look of the final design, and dismissed it on that alone, but the hydraulic forcefeedback could feel very good.   That said, I thought I'd take another look, and was floored by the price.  It was initially expected to sell in the high hundreds, not thousands, lol.  

 

2250 € ! That's insane! I think it looks good however apart from the price I fear that the feel of cold metal is not so pleasant when playing for longer times ... 

[Sokol1]

So why on Earth is no other producer capable to create a similar well done FFB stick?

 

Market...

 

Sokol1

[Sokol1]

Thrustmaster is sticking to high price (Warthog) or low price range (T.Flight, T.16000M, i wouldn't be surprised if they would face out the T.Flight soon). A FFB Hotas would most probably compete with their own Warthog.

 

Microsoft of course stopped completely, Logitech is down to one very low end stick.

 

CH is sticking to their proven sticks and those still seem to sell well enough.

 

Saitek is the only mainstream producer which i would have expected a new FFB stick from, but after their X-65F experiment (i can't possibly imagine that that was a success) and their new X-55, i highly doubt they will create something new that soon.

 

 

 

And recently Saitek survey indicates that they looking more for consoles, tablets and smartphones.

 

Not to mention that it seems ignore that exist  simulator's "WW II"...

 

Sokol1

[wtornado]

I bought a Logitech Extreme 3d Pro joystick due to the trouble I was having in Cliffs of Dover and the new patch.

 

For 32$ Canadian at Futureshop.ca with a 3 year warranty it is a steal with 12 buttons a hat.

 

The stick blew me away with the 5.10 logitech profiler and the 15 mins setup time.

 

I put my old MSFF2 in a box and selfed it.Could not get it to work right anymore being too soft

crappy damping,less gun,bomb release etc affects.

 

Since I installed my Win 7 64bit I can't use my Sidewinder 4.0 installation disk to be able to profile games

and calibrate the stick force wise etc to the game i am playing.I got sick of the plug and pray installation with my  MSFF2

joystick.Will it work the next patch?It stopped working right now it is not like it used to be etc.   

[wtornado]

If BOS fully supports it and it works well I like my MSFFB2 very much but if it will run

like it runs in Clod then it will be utterly useless in FR settings with the stick barely

reacting at all with little to no force and no way to say you are centered unless you

 use Fedit and dumb down the stick and use it just as a standard joystick that centers

itself with no FF effects. 

[wtornado]

They said MSFFB2 works well in Clod too.

 

But it doesn't. Not even close to operating levels

like in 1946.

 

Thanks to Microsoft and my Win 7 that does

not support the stick at all anymore and no way

of installing the apps Microsoft SW 4.0 disk

to create game files and damping,forces and buttons

it is far from working ok. 

 

Best joystick ever made and you can't get it to work perfectly

like it used to work and was meant to work.

[oneeyeddog]

My MSFFB2 works for Bos, although the forces are not as strong as they are for CLoD or RoF.  My OS is Win7.

[Bando]

No problems here either.

[DumKopf]

My Logitech Force 3d Pro which I've enjoyed for about 8 years now started spiking. I took it apart to check out if it was dust, or pots, or whatever.

 

I had it fully disassembled but plugged all the components in so I could check to see how the pots were responding through the joystick calibration screen. Both the pots seemed to be doing the right thing, so I thought I'd put it back together to see if it just needed a bit of fresh air. Then I accidentally put one of the motors down onto the circuit board and instantly shorted the whole thing. There goes that plan, luckily didn't nuke my PC.

 

So thanks to the advice on this thread, I just bought a "brand new" MS FF2 from ebay. Box is a bit ragged looking, but apparently the stick has never been used. Looks like a black trigger version, so it's older. But looked to be pretty lucky to get a near new one these days.

 

Edited June 1, 2014 by DumKopf

[361fundahl]

Looks like I need to pick up one as well....

[GP*]

I just bought a MSFFB2 stick off ebay as well, after years of reading how good they are in threads like these.

 

I currently have a full CH setup, and while I love the quality of their products, I just can't stand the lack of resistance. The stick especially is just way too soft, and, unlike many others, I do not like the long throw it has.

 

I got the MS stick mostly because people rave about how great FFB is -- I'm really hoping it'll help to "feel" the aircraft. Not just shooting and getting shot, which I don't care much about, but the various buffet levels ranging from energy sustaining turns to energy depleting ones.

 

But what I really want is more resistance in a stick, without spending so much coin on a Warthog when I already have somewhat-pricey CH stuff. Any input from others on this?

[=LD=Penshoon]

I just bought a MSFFB2 stick off ebay as well, after years of reading how good they are in threads like these.

 

I currently have a full CH setup, and while I love the quality of their products, I just can't stand the lack of resistance. The stick especially is just way too soft, and, unlike many others, I do not like the long throw it has.

 

I got the MS stick mostly because people rave about how great FFB is -- I'm really hoping it'll help to "feel" the aircraft. Not just shooting and getting shot, which I don't care much about, but the various buffet levels ranging from energy sustaining turns to energy depleting ones.

 

But what I really want is more resistance in a stick, without spending so much coin on a Warthog when I already have somewhat-pricey CH stuff. Any input from others on this?

You won't exactly get more resistance with the MSFFB2, in fact you'll get no centering/resistance at all unless your at sufficient speed. Elevators center as soon as you apply takeoff power and I think the ailerons center at around 100 kph airspeed depending on plane model. 

 

The main draw FFB has for me is that you will always get a feel for how fast you are flying and how much more AOA you can pull. Just remember to keep the proximity sensors covered (I taped over mine) so you won't loose FFB if you shift your grip.

[GP*]

You won't exactly get more resistance with the MSFFB2, in fact you'll get no centering/resistance at all unless your at sufficient speed. Elevators center as soon as you apply takeoff power and I think the ailerons center at around 100 kph airspeed depending on plane model. 

 

The main draw FFB has for me is that you will always get a feel for how fast you are flying and how much more AOA you can pull. Just remember to keep the proximity sensors covered (I taped over mine) so you won't loose FFB if you shift your grip.

You won't exactly get more resistance with the MSFFB2, in fact you'll get no centering/resistance at all unless your at sufficient speed. Elevators center as soon as you apply takeoff power and I think the ailerons center at around 100 kph airspeed depending on plane model. 

 

The main draw FFB has for me is that you will always get a feel for how fast you are flying and how much more AOA you can pull. Just remember to keep the proximity sensors covered (I taped over mine) so you won't loose FFB if you shift your grip.

Thanks for the reply! That works for me...the CH gear is of great quality, but the resistance of the stick is far too light.

[Crump]

Have you tested it to the point of being really sure that it IS your stick?

 

Extreme_One pointed this out in another thread

 

http://www.fs-force.com/support.htm#ForceTest

 

ForceTest does a pretty nice job of scrubbing down to the issue...

 

Thanks for the help.

 

I tried it and it was not picking anything up on the lateral axis from the stick.  I shelved the MSFFB2 and bought a 568 Combatstick from CH products.  

 

http://www.pilotmall.com/product/CH-Combatstick-568-USB-Joystick/flight-simulation

 

If I can find a fix for MSFFB2 then I will revive it.  I Really like the FFB.  Yeah it is cheesy compared to reality, it is much cheaper than a Level D simulator!  At least it gives you something to gauge the envelope by feel.  Wish somebody would make a reasonably priced FFB stick. 

 

I hate sim rides at work because they have no feel which is an important part of my flying, it becomes a scan exercise without it.  Playing a game without the FFB also becomes a scan exercise. 

 

I got CH products pedals and throttle too, so it all matches at least. 

[doveman]

I don't know about the CH Fighterstick, but the Thrustmaster F-16, F-22, Cougar, and Warthog use three 8-bit shift registers to cut the grip wiring down to five conductors. An old SNES controller uses the exact same principle. To read any of these sticks you need to give it +5V, ground, a clock source, a data line, and a select line. It's completely compatible with SPI (serial peripheral interface). On the old F-16 I identified the brown wire as +5V, green as ground, orange as clock, red as enable, and yellow as serial data out.

 

I think the cheapest project board with SPI is a Teensy 2.0, for $16. It's programmable with the Arduino IDE and comes with a USB joystick profile ready-built, so it could hardly be easier. brown and green go to the +5V and GND pins, orange goes to SCLK (pin 1), red goes to SS (pin 0), and yellow goes to MISO (pin 3).

 

Then I used this very simple code:

 

After reading your post recently, I bought myself a cheap S/H F-16 FLCS stick with the intention of modding it onto my MS FFB2 but for now I've decided to just convert it to a USB stick and keep them separate. I was going to try using a Pro Micro I have but that was too complicated for me so I bought a Teensy 3.1 and although the pinout is different to the Teensy 2.0, that's straightforward https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_SPI.html There's no code in your sketch for the X and Y axis though, so do I just need to add a couple of lines, so the end looks like this?

 

// read analog inputs and set X-Y position
 Joystick.X(analogRead(0));
 Joystick.Y(analogRead(1));
 
 // Because setup configured the Joystick manual send,
 // the computer does not see any of the changes yet.
 // This send_now() transmits everything all at once.
 Joystick.send_now();
}

The guides all seem to say to select USB - Joystick in Arduino but I don't have that, only "Keyboard + Mouse + Joystick" or "Serial + Keyboard + Mouse + Joystick", so will either of those work just as well?

 

Then how do I wire up the pots? The analog inputs on the Teensy 3.1 only tolerate +3.3v https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensy31.html so I don't think I can feed +5v into the pots, so should I use the "3.3v (100 ma max)" or the 3.3v pin at the opposite end of the board to the USB connector? I presume I'd connect +ve to one side of the pot, GND to the other and the middle pin to A0 or A1?

[Bearcat]

The thing with the MSFFB2 in BoS is that the forces don't kick in until the sim loads and you start to move. At least that is how it is in mine.

[doveman]

Well I thought I'd test the buttons before I tackle the pots. Using this code:

/* USB FLCS Grip
   You must select Joystick from the "Tools > USB Type" menu
*/

// Buttons are muxed into shift registers, use the SPI protocol to read them
#include <SPI.h>

const int slaveSelectPin = 10;

unsigned int buttonInputs1;   // data read from SPI
unsigned int buttonInputs2;
unsigned int buttonInputs3;

// Use some macros to clean things up
#define S3   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x80)    /* Pinky Switch */
#define TG1  !(buttonInputs1 & 0x40)    /* Trigger 1 */
#define TG2  !(buttonInputs1 & 0x20)    /* Trigger 2 */
#define S1   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x10)    /* Nose Wheel Steering */
#define S4   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x08)    /* Paddle Switch */
#define S2   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x04)    /* Pickle */

#define H1D  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x80)    /* Trim */
#define H1R  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x40)
#define H1U  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x20)
#define H1L  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x10)
#define H4U  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x08)    /* CMS */
#define H4L  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x04)
#define H4D  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x02)
#define H4R  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x01)

#define H3D  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x80)    /* DMS */
#define H3R  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x40)
#define H3U  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x20)
#define H3L  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x10)
#define H2D  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x08)    /* TMS */
#define H2R  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x04)
#define H2U  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x02)
#define H2L  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x01)

// setup() runs once on boot
void setup() {
  // set the slaveSelectPin as an output:
  pinMode (slaveSelectPin, OUTPUT);
  // start the SPI library:
  SPI.begin();
  // configure the joystick to manual send mode.  This gives precise
  // control over when the computer receives updates, but it does
  // require you to manually call Joystick.send_now().
  Joystick.useManualSend(true);
}


// loop() runs for as long as power is applied
void loop() {
  // take the SS pin low to select the chip
  digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,LOW);
  // send a value of 0 to read the SPI bytes
  buttonInputs1 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
  buttonInputs2 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
  buttonInputs3 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
  // take the SS pin high to de-select the chip:
  digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,HIGH); 

  // Write to joystick buttons
  Joystick.button(1,  TG1);
  Joystick.button(2,  S2);
  Joystick.button(3,  S3);
  Joystick.button(4,  S4);
  Joystick.button(5,  S1);
  Joystick.button(6,  TG2);
  Joystick.button(7,  H2U);
  Joystick.button(8,  H2R);
  Joystick.button(9,  H2D);
  Joystick.button(10, H2L);
  Joystick.button(11, H3U);
  Joystick.button(12, H3R);
  Joystick.button(13, H3D);
  Joystick.button(14, H3L);
  Joystick.button(15, H4U);
  Joystick.button(16, H4R);
  Joystick.button(17, H4D);
  Joystick.button(18, H4L);
  //Joystick.button(19, H1U);
  //Joystick.button(20, H1R);
  //Joystick.button(21, H1D);
  //Joystick.button(22, H1L);
  
  // Determine Joystick Hat Position
  int angle = -1;

  if (H1U) {
    if (H1R) {
      angle = 45;
    } else if (H1L) {
      angle = 315;
    } else {
      angle = 0;
    }
  } else if (H1D) {
    if (H1R) {
      angle = 135;
    } else if (H1L) {
      angle = 225;
    } else {
      angle = 180;
    }
  } else if (H1R) {
    angle = 90;
  } else if (H1L) {
    angle = 270;
  }
  Joystick.hat(angle);
  
  // read analog inputs and set X-Y position
  Joystick.X(analogRead(0));
  Joystick.Y(analogRead(1));
  
  // Because setup configured the Joystick manual send,
  // the computer does not see any of the changes yet.
  // This send_now() transmits everything all at once.
  Joystick.send_now();
}

and with Brown connected to Vin, Green to GND, Orange to SCK (Pin 13), Red to SS (Pin 10) and Yellow to DIN/MISO (12).

 

Unfortunately, that doesn't work. Obviously the X and Y axis is floating so is jittering all over the place but the buttons done work either and the only one that does anything is the red pinky button at the base of the stick, which triggers on all buttons 1-18 and upper-right diagonal on the hat as well!

 

I tried removing the lines I added at the end of the code to read the pots, just in case I'd messed it up but still the same result with the buttons.

 

Can anyone please advise me where I went wrong?

[Solmyr]

Well, this topic reminds me how many times I thought about buying a brand new joystick, ...and how many times I thought it won't make me as happy as my good old MS FFB2

Edited October 26, 2014 by Solmyr

[e345spd]

Ahha, I see the ffb2 modders are indeed still alive.

 

 

Anyways, I (and at least one other user who made a specific topic) have an issue with BoS and MSFFB2 force feedback axis reversal.  Currently, when resting at the airfield and applying throttle, my ailerons tighten rather than the elevator. I'm sure other forces are reversed, however I haven't put in enough flight time in BoS to get a clear reading on the FFB effects. Currently, the only other flight-based game that exhibits this problem for me is warthunder. All other il-2 titles assign the axis correctly, as does P3D, FSX (naturally), RoF, DCS...etc.

 

According to the other guy who created the specific topic (and received no replies), the issue stems from the device sometimes being reported as a generic x-button/y-axis device, rather than an msffb2 specifically. According to his post, if the device is presented properly, BoS will indeed automatically apply the FFB axis switch correctly. Currently, I do not know of a way to change how the device is presented to the device manager, as the generic driver is assigning the naming afaik.

 

 

So... a setting exposed in some sort of configuration file seems to be in order, a UI FFB reverse option really isn't strictly necessary, I would rather have the manual fix available sooner.  

 

Anyways, if any of you have found a solution to this issue, please let me know.

 

 

As for adjustment of FFB effects for the msffb2 in modern OSes, simffb (can be found on the DCS forums, along with source) can indeed adjust your forces, IF the end software doesn't completely override when directinput reinitializes. I haven't tested with BoS yet and I'm slightly reluctant to do too much messing about as I currently have the constant centering force disabled in WT and it can be rather difficult to get it disabled in the first place....To much messing about will often restore the hateful constant centering and I'm not entirely ready to abandon WT (yet).

 

 

Anyways, I'm enjoying BoS so far but I'm also a little annoyed at the rather 'closed' nature of the UI (specifically rendering settings) and a rather lacking manual config without properly exposed options...

 

 

 

All in good time I suppose...However, less options and control over my hardware are not desirable features in my book.  

[e345spd]

Well, since I can't edit my previous post, I shall just make a new one.

 

Looks as though this should be the correct area to begin resolving this problem.... However...

[default] //real default hardcoded, this is only description

[const_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
pad_mode=false;
[end]


[condition_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]

[end]


[microsoft]

[const_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[condition_force]
axis_map="1","0","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]

[end]

[sidewinder]

[const_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[condition_force]
axis_map="1","0","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]

[end]

[Logitech G940 Joystick]

[const_force]
axis_map="-0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="-0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
amp_scale=1.1;
[end]


[condition_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="-0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="mixed";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]

[end]

[Logitech Force 3D Pro USB]

[const_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[condition_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=9500;
min_offset=-9500;
[end]

[end]

[Game Pad]

[const_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
pad_mode=true;
amp_scale=15;
[end]


[condition_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=9500;
min_offset=-9500;
[end]

[end]

[Saitek P480 Rumble Pad]

[const_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
pad_mode=true;
amp_scale=10;
[end]


[condition_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=9500;
min_offset=-9500;
[end]

[end]

[Saitek Dual Analog Rumble Pad]

[const_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
pad_mode=true;
amp_scale=10;
[end]


[condition_force]
//id_map=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8;
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=9500;
min_offset=-9500;
[end]

[end]

[Logitech Cordless RumblePad 2 USB]

[const_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="single";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]


[pereodic_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
pad_mode=false;
amp_scale=10;
[end]


[condition_force]
axis_map="0","1","2","3","4","5","6","7","8";
axis_type="multi";
max_offset=10000;
min_offset=-10000;
[end]

[end]

'real default 'hard coded'' eh?

 

 

So this example config is not referenced at all, and I likely cannot resolve the issue myself without source access?

 

 

This is rather unfortunate structuring...

[e345spd]

It appears that I may just need one value changed from '0' to '1' under condition force for the generic device settings, though I'm mostly guessing here.

 

 

Having trouble re-naming the device through the registry (really just an annoying permissions conflict), however assigning the proper device name should be a decent end-user fix once I resolve the conflict. We shall see I suppose.

Edited October 29, 2014 by e345spd

[[CPC]Giledhil]

Hi guys,

I just bought a FFB2 stick, and the force feedback doesn't seem to be working.
At that point, when I plug the stick (usb+power cord), it is recognised by the computer, axes and buttons are ok, but no ffb.
The LED on the stick twinkles; does that mean something special?

[=LD=Penshoon]

Hi guys,

I just bought a FFB2 stick, and the force feedback doesn't seem to be working.

At that point, when I plug the stick (usb+power cord), it is recognised by the computer, axes and buttons are ok, but no ffb.

The LED on the stick twinkles; does that mean something special?

Mine flash whenever i pull the power cord out. The cord might be faulty? Edited November 5, 2014 by =LD=Penshoon

[[CPC]Giledhil]

I think I might have found the problem : the power block inside seems to be broken (the card is cracked). So I want to chang the whole power block, but I don't know what power should be delivered out of this. Any one knows about that?

[e345spd]

I think we should be able to provide specifications for the converter accurate enough to choose a functional replacement. Does anyone have an ffb2 currently disassembled that they can quickly grab readings from?

[AA_Engadin]

What about this ?

 

http://www.paccus.com/

 

I am afraid they are out of the sim business now. More involved in the medical sector for FFB surgical devices.

 

They have never handed a single Hawk to any of the 10 top reviewers out there to get a pro conclusion about it. Why? I can't guess the reason. Really.

 

AA_Engadin

[e345spd]

Your guess is probably right on the money...(guessing you're being a bit sarcastic here,  )

 

 

 

Unfortunately, there's very little legitimate choice for FFB flight stick devices.

Edited November 6, 2014 by e345spd

[indiaciki]

the saitek cyborg F.L.Y. Is really okay. 

[e345spd]

I have an older cyborg here, (planning to use it with BoS too, especially since I can switch the grip around).

 

 

It's actually a very decent stick and incredibly durable.

 

I still haven't solved the msffb axis switch...Registry device renaming did nothing.It looks like I may need to use JSGME to enable changes to the control parameters... There's also either a second file that I completely missed before, or they added a new file. Unfortunately, this 'joysffmap.cfg' doesn't seem to be changing the condition force after editing it either. Not sure what to try next, JSGME doesn't seem to be helping.

[HR_GYBARYAN]

Hi, can someone help me ?. I also have a MSFFB2, which you've added the grip of a CH, it works perfectly in others SIMS, but in the BOS, in level flight, as seen in the video, I suffer a continued pounding, only is corrected when I trim the pitch totally up.
Someone else suffers ?, and if not so, someone suspected cause? and what can be the solution?

 

[=LD=Penshoon]

Hi, can someone help me ?. I also have a MSFFB2, which you've added the grip of a CH, it works perfectly in others SIMS, but in the BOS, in level flight, as seen in the video, I suffer a continued pounding, only is corrected when I trim the pitch totally up.

Someone else suffers ?, and if not so, someone suspected cause? and what can be the solution?

 

Had the same symptoms on my MSFFB2. Tried switching USB ports as many had suggested but didn't help me. Only way to get it working was to keep alt-tabbing in and out of the game so the FFB resets, usually had to do it several times until I got the correct forces working on both axes again. Sometimes I could alt-tab for for ages with no success. Usually closing the game and plugging the stick in and out of the pc and starting over again got it working. 

[Dakpilot]

As said above, Changing to a USB 2 port (from usb3) solved my similar problems, have also read that using a powered USB2 hub can resolve the issue, I see that a few of the newer Motherboards ONLY have USB3 ports, and although meant to be backwards compatible, the fact that changing to USB2 sorts out the problem leads me to the idea that this is not always true in some instances

 

Cheers Dakpilot

[=LD=Penshoon]

As said above, Changing to a USB 2 port (from usb3) solved my similar problems, have also read that using a powered USB2 hub can resolve the issue, I see that a few of the newer Motherboards ONLY have USB3 ports, and although meant to be backwards compatible, the fact that changing to USB2 sorts out the problem leads me to the idea that this is not always true in some instances

 

Cheers Dakpilot

I tried every USB port I had on my motherboard (several 2.0 & 3.0 ones) but the issue stayed the same for me. I'm sure it wasn't the stick that was faulty as it worked flawlessly on my old PC. I suspect it was related to the new USB 3.0 drivers as my old PC didn't any of them. 

 

Anyway I could get it working usually after 30 sec of alt tabbing, if it didn't work after that I plugged it in and out and and retried and that usually fixed it for the session.  

[voncrapenhauser]

I have had Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 for many years now.

Its almost faultless still combined with CH pro pedals I find an excellent combination.

I set these to 100% to give maximum throw and smoothness whilst flying.

Hi, can someone help me ?. I also have a MSFFB2, which you've added the grip of a CH, it works perfectly in others SIMS, but in the BOS, in level flight, as seen in the video, I suffer a continued pounding, only is corrected when I trim the pitch totally up.
Someone else suffers ?, and if not so, someone suspected cause? and what can be the solution?

 

Never experienced these problems???? sorry

[=LD=Penshoon]

I have had Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 for many years now.

Its almost faultless still combined with CH pro pedals I find an excellent combination.

I set these to 100% to give maximum throw and smoothness whilst flying.

Never experienced these problems???? sorry

Question voncrapenhauser; What did you set to 100%? Joystick sensitivity/non-linearity? I will seriously recommend using a full linear sensitivity curve with an FFB stick. Otherwise you'll both loose axis sensitivity in the upper range and FFB effects in the lower range (as it gets enlarged).

[HR_GYBARYAN]

I tried all options and not solved. Do not know how to fix it. Working properly and suddenly I get this problem. I will continue investigating.
Thank You.

[doveman]

I finally got my F-16 FLCS stick working with the Teensy 3.1.

 

I found this sketch which was adapted from the original F-16 sketch and added the analogue axis https://github.com/gerryk/USBJoystick

I was only getting output from three buttons and they were each triggering loads of buttons when pressed. However, replacing the section below "void loop() {" with this:

SPISettings settingsA(1000000, MSBFIRST, SPI_MODE0);

SPI.beginTransaction(settingsA);
digitalWrite(ss,LOW);
// reading only, so data sent does not matter
buttonInputs1 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
buttonInputs2 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
buttonInputs3 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
digitalWrite(ss,HIGH);
SPI.endTransaction();

 

got it working and now each button/hat triggers correctly.

The explanation of why this was necessary (as provided by the person who kindly assisted me) is that the original Teensy SPI code emulated the slow arduino Uno performance by default. That has now been changed to 'default to as fast as possible' which in most cases is a good thing, since the SPI code is blocking (code pauses until bytes are received) so you want them complete as fast as possible. So with the updated SPI libraries we need to explicitly say 'run slow'.

 

Now I just need to hook up the axis pots and test them. I might replace them with hall sensors at some point though.

[J2_Trupobaw]

I tried all options and not solved. Do not know how to fix it. Working properly and suddenly I get this problem. I will continue investigating.

Thank You.

If you still didn't, the fastest solution I know is going to options->controls (options menu where you bind keys to the axes and buttons) then cancel and go back to sim. Leaving the controls menu resets the ffb software and it *may* restert without pulsing; if not, I repeat until successful.

 

I've tried it with two FFB2s by the way and had the problem with both, so problem is caused by PC / USB port / whatnot... not the stick being faulty.

 

How does the FFB2 work with CH grip? I was thinking of extending mine, but was afraid it will overwork the motors.