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Here's mine. Base made of 1.5 inch pvc pipe, 0.75 inch plywood, covered with vinyl film and an ikea seat:)

 

Stick and rudder pedals are from Baur. Thinking of replacing Warthog throttle with one of these nice consoles:

http://kanttorinkone.com/consoles.html

 

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post-125062-0-51392300-1509140571_thumb.jpg

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This is my setup - some kind of prototype. Some things need to be changed / modified.

 

Cheers

 

 

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Thanks, guys. I guess the more photos we have in this thread the easier it would be for others to create their own pits based on the ideas here:)

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Lol I'm running out of gas (motivation) lately.

 

You are too good pilot (all of us Trolls are ofc.) to give up.

That pit looks very good, don't let it collect dust... 

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Here's the MoachPit:

 

tumblr_p0las6saok1smy77xo1_1280.jpg

 

Items description beloiw:

tumblr_p0las6saok1smy77xo2_r1_1280.jpg

Edited by 19//Moach
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It seems that you are a connaisseur and amazed fanatic of duck tape...  ;)

 

Seeing your cockpit setup it reminds me a bit of McGyver and Dr. Emmett Brown. :biggrin:

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Mine's a pretty basic setup, Obutto R3Volution Gaming Cockpit, includes seat, monitor stand, keyboard tray and 2 swing out acryillic stands, MFG Crosswind Rudder Pedals ser no.0150, Thrustmaster Warthog Throttle,VKB Gunfighter Pro Mk1., Sennheiser PC 350 headphones, main monitor is a 32" BENQ BL3200 and the secondary monitor mounted on the right swing out arm is a 22" Dell SP2208WFP.
 

post-830-0-08916400-1512795759_thumb.jpg

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Hi Moak!

only a question 'bout the rudder pedals.....

what you mean for "....rebuild by Moah" ?

I'm going to do something like (I think) you have done,replacing the fragile rails, the rudder pots with a DIY hall sensor and a better brakes mechanical arrangement.

would you, please ,explain what have you mod on the Saitek (too much) plastic product ?

Thanks!!!

...and

 

 Good Luck!!!

Edited by ITAF_Caster

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the roller tracks inside had broken in multiple places long ago, so flimsy was the plastic....  The pedals would snag and jam against these broken openings, so they had to be fixed.

 

 

That actually happened multiple times, with several patches and repairs and new failures,   until eventually I had to have them almost completely rebuilt, using scraps of vinyl staircase riser paneling material, (about 3mm thick) which my roommate conveniently left around when he redid our stairs.

 

There were numerous broken sections of those little track "walls", so for the most extensively damages ones, I completely removed them. Then I scraped the baseplate clear of barbs and jags before replacing them with strips of this material I had laying around.  Superglue holds everything in place.

 

In other less severe areas, I just filled in the broken gaps with that same stuff (or whatever else I could find which would fit), making sure to leave a smooth inner surface so the roller wheels couldn't snag and trip over any seams.

 

Also, I added another set of strips of this stuff inside of the inner wheel tracks, just under the space where the pedal "trucks" connect with the steering bar. These serve to support the pivot mounts against longitudinal twisting caused by stepping inboard of the trucks wheelbase.  

 

The baseplate there was found to have severe gouging going almost through to the floor, caused by how these inboard flanges of the trucks get pushed down due to such twisting (possible because the plastic is too thin and flexible, and bends enough to allow parts grinding together where they shouldn't)

 

These supporting strips sit just between the innermost roller track railings and the crescent-shaped steering arm guides.   The steering joint flanges slide over them.  They seem to be holding out, so far...

 

 

 

More recently, I also built up an extra "sidewall" running parallel on the outside of the pedal "trucks". 

 

I made these from that same vinyl material, gluing carefully sized strips of it in place between the outermost track railings and the screw sockets on the sides of the casing.  I used smaller strips of that stuff to pack in the gaps between the screw "towers".  Three layers total, set like little bricks such that the sidewalls are supported by the actual sides of the pedal casing interior.

 

 

This new sidewall stands flush with the flat outboard sides of the pedal trucks, preventing them from twisting out of alignment with the tracks. (which is how the damage first started) I have not had the trucks "derail" again ever since installing these.

 

 

I also removed the dust cover plates from the top of the pedal trucks, since they wouldn't stay aligned and often caused snags and jams.  Dirt doesn't get inside as easily as I had though, since the trucks close up the open slots completely when the pedals are centered.

 

 

But just earlier today, I had the left pedal column (the thing that goes up from the truck through the slot to the part you step on) simply tear open and collapse back from the pressure put onto it.   The plastic is so inadequate it could not take the shear forces it receives during a dogfight scenario.

 

Like a cheap plastic toy, it ripped apart and gaped open on the front side, (facing me) where the base of the column meets the top of the truck, flexing precariously against the rear part of the shaft which hung dangling like the lid of an open tin can.

 

I immediately stopped everything and glued the hole shut.  It broke again in less than a minute of testing with increasingly relaxed feet action.  I then resorted to another approach, using alternating  layers of duct tape and superglue, which (in theory) should solidify into a "composite" similar to something not completely unlike carbon fiber or fiberglass.   This seems to have worked better than glue alone, I reckon due to how the tensile strength of the tape reinforces the glue kinda like concrete and rebar. 

 

The whole thing fuses into a solid mass which I expect should be about as strong as the original shitty plastic. (if not, I'll make it thicker until it holds)

 

 

TL;DR:    Saitek = Shit

Edited by 19//Moach

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Thanks for the accurate explanations you gave us.

I'm going to do a similar job you have made

I have found the same rollers track issues,  patched at the moment, with few plastic rods cyano glued  as shoulder to the very thin rail walls, but,  in a near future, they will be replaced for the whole lenght with a hard and heavy plastic foil, cutted and glued as needed.

 

'bout  this not cheap Saitek product, yes I totally agree

 

Bye  ...and

 

 Good Luck!

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Hi everybody,

Just getting into combat sims. Been flying GA stuff for a few years.

 

I decided to build a sim chair since combat is much more demanding. Let me know what you think.

 

Stef267577417_Mysimchair.thumb.jpg.8fd3179753229d74f675e8f25843e7ba.jpg

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17 minutes ago, stefew1966 said:

Hi everybody,

Just getting into combat sims. Been flying GA stuff for a few years.

 

I decided to build a sim chair since combat is much more demanding. Let me know what you think.

 

Stef


that's a cool looking setup. Where did you get the actual cushion for the seat? It seems as it came off an actual seat somewhere. The cut out for the joystick is too perfect. :)

 

Also, isn't the joystick too high? I.e. it seems it's almost at your chest level.. I thought it's supposed to be much lower..

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8 minutes ago, moosya said:


that's a cool looking setup. Where did you get the actual cushion for the seat? It seems as it came off an actual seat somewhere. The cut out for the joystick is too perfect. :)

 

Also, isn't the joystick too high? I.e. it seems it's almost at your chest level.. I thought it's supposed to be much lower..

I made the seat cushions myself. I like to dabble in upholstery and leather working. I have an industrial sewing machine.

 

The cutout was a challenge. I didn't know how wide and deep I should make it. So I decided on 8" by 8". It worked out.

 

The stick is higher than most. But I like it that way. It looks like it would be chest high but it's not. It's about belly height. The seat back is lower than it looks. I did that so I can mount my TrackIR behind. So my head needed to clear the seat back.

 

Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated.

Stef

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16 minutes ago, stefew1966 said:

I made the seat cushions myself. I like to dabble in upholstery and leather working. I have an industrial sewing machine.

 

The cutout was a challenge. I didn't know how wide and deep I should make it. So I decided on 8" by 8". It worked out.

 

The stick is higher than most. But I like it that way. It looks like it would be chest high but it's not. It's about belly height. The seat back is lower than it looks. I did that so I can mount my TrackIR behind. So my head needed to clear the seat back.

 

Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated.

Stef

 

ah, I see.. you've got some great skills if you could saw it up like that!! Perfect score! Five Stars! :)

cheerios. :)

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1 hour ago, moosya said:

 

ah, I see.. you've got some great skills if you could saw it up like that!! Perfect score! Five Stars! :)

cheerios. :)

It's actually not that hard. I also have a woodworking shop in the basement. So I have all the tools. 😉

 

 

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Those are some terrific setups you people have there!

 

I'm currently working on joining the club of "simpit" owners. Since WAF is paramount and space is pretty limited, everything will have to fit into a kind of wooden chest in the end. This one serves as model. It'll have to be a dual setup though, accomodating both racing and flying hardware. The prototype currently looks like this:

 

IMG_20180713_121823.thumb.jpg.2cc8d9fe6c37f7926735ce5c9f2e05ac.jpgIMG_20180713_122059.thumb.jpg.a4d5a375e289b994368bce3a8caa03f0.jpg

 

There's a ton of work still to be done. The joystick will be clamped to the central horizontal bar with a Monstertech mount copy. The CH throttle will be accompanied by a CH throttle quadrant. Both need to fold in/out. The monitor will be eventually mounted to an arm in the inside of the chest's lid. The pedals are exchangable.

 

Edit: Aluminium extrusions (8020/ITEM etc.) are fantastic for constructions like this. Expensive, but extremely configurable and stable.

Edited by SnntgsflgrBurny
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My mostly DIY set up MFG Crosswinds, VKB Gunfighter Pro with DIY center mount, DIY throttle with GVL224 components and diy desk mount, two tactile transducers one under the seat and one under the flight stick mount, and of course Oculus Rift

20180725_180952.jpg

Edited by [TWB]kmac31
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Some shots of my "workspace" 🙂

Includes: MFG Crosswind pedal, VKB Gunfighter joystick, custom throttle quadrant made by Vitalij, TrackIR 5, 2K WQHD LCD (ASUS ROG Swift PG278QR), an old BMW seat and a few custom-made iron mountings and fittings. The frame is made form Haberkorn mounting system. To gather all parts together was a two-year endeavour.

 

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Edited by Tapi
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Here is the current iteration of my simpit.  I have got to figure out my cable management, I obviously need a much larger monitor, and I need a chair that doesn't roll around on the hardwood.

 

C74-BFF0-E-D4-E1-4226-86-F8-8-D25-ED1536

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Looks nice and functional, except that lever quadrant. It should be on the left side. You could put the whole setup a little off center, to have room for the lever quadrant on the left side of the desk. Or put a small support for it on your left side of your chair.

 

-------

 

For the rolling chair problem, you could replace the wheels with a thing like this. Or with wheel with brakes.

 

Or there are some small discs with a grove in which the wheel sits, which you put under each wheel, so it stops rolling. Or some plastic lids, of adequate diameter.

 

-------

 

The joystick extensions seems to be 100mm + 50mm.

 

Which cams and springs are you using?

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I had a stand that I put the throttle quadrant on, but it was cumbersome, and since most of my commands are assigned to the Warthog throttle, it's not too much a pain to do a few things with the quad on the right hand side.

 

I HAVE to look into those wheel replacements, as that might be the best bet to not screw up the hardwood.  Had to compromise with the C-in-C on some stuff. 😉

 

I believe you are correct on the joystick extensions, and I'm using the cams/springs that came pre-installed on the Virpil base.  I lowered the friction on the X and Y axis, so that it comes back to center, but moves with hardly any pressure at all.

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I picked up those wheel replacements, and it makes a world of difference.  Thanks for the advice on those!  I also mounted my throttle quadrant on top of the VPC throttle mount, and it's working out quite nicely.

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13 hours ago, WWChunk said:

I picked up those wheel replacements, and it makes a world of difference.  Thanks for the advice on those!  I also mounted my throttle quadrant on top of the VPC throttle mount, and it's working out quite nicely.

 

Can you post a picture? I have a VPC mount for my throttle (crappy X52 throttle) and a Saitek quadrant, but I can't really picture how you would mount it. I have the two side-to-side which is okay but not great.

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On 11/13/2018 at 10:20 PM, WWChunk said:

Here is the current iteration of my simpit.  I have got to figure out my cable management, I obviously need a much larger monitor, and I need a chair that doesn't roll around on the hardwood.

 

 

 

hey, man, great setup!

 

by the way, what is that double decker model you have on top of the shelf?  Looks awesome!  I need to know the name, I love RC and models ! 

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1 hour ago, moosya said:

 

hey, man, great setup!

 

by the way, what is that double decker model you have on top of the shelf?  Looks awesome!  I need to know the name, I love RC and models ! 

 

Double decker = LEGO toy plane. Bought one some years ago for my son.

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2 minutes ago, -IRRE-Therion said:

 

Double decker = LEGO toy plane. Bought one some years ago for my son.

 

ohh.. 😄  yeah, I can see it now, the prop is full of those bumps, coudln't see it at first.  Thanks for letting me know!

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On 12/13/2018 at 7:36 AM, Alonzo said:

 

Can you post a picture? I have a VPC mount for my throttle (crappy X52 throttle) and a Saitek quadrant, but I can't really picture how you would mount it. I have the two side-to-side which is okay but not great.

 

 I can, but I'm out of town until after Christmas.

21 hours ago, moosya said:

 

ohh.. 😄  yeah, I can see it now, the prop is full of those bumps, coudln't see it at first.  Thanks for letting me know!

 

Yep, the LEGO Sopwith Camel.  Fun build.  :) 

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The wife having a go in my converted playseat from my racing rig. Basic thrustmaster set up scored for $150 on black Friday

 I have an aura bass shaker under the rudder pedal mount and seat for some teeth rattling fun.  (Wife seems to enjoy vibrations at 2150 rpm in the spit specifically 🤔)

 

 

20181202_195344.jpg

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My setup is simple and compact, yet ergonomic. I place my monitor close and game with dimmed lights to maximize immersion (also to that end "tech chat" and even text-messages are off in the game).

 

I box my chair into the desk so my TrackIR keeps tracking consistently during the game (I also will buy " compression casters" for my chair to keep it even more immobile, I suggest looking it up if you have a problem with your swivel-chair moving).

 

I rest my elbow on a well-padded armrest during gaming, the joystick is to the left and its grip is twisted accordingly to align perfectly with my hand. This setup is similar to what modern fighter jets use, I figured if it is good enough for a Rafale pilot, it should be good enough for me😀 In any case I can fly for hours without my arm/hand feeling fatigued.

 

I also use VKB rudders (shown in the 2nd pic) which are notched on the old motherboard boxes I placed them on. This is to prevent them from sliding forward.

1.jpg

2.jpg

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My set up is simple but I want to share a couple things I did to alter my VKB throttle and pedals.

741919668_Simplesim.JPG.a3be6918bbf9e67f799daaadebfe4a35.JPG

 

On 12/26/2018 at 2:56 PM, WheelwrightPL said:

I also use VKB rudders which are notched on the old motherboard boxes I placed them on. This is to prevent them from sliding forward.

My approach was a little different but to the same end. I used an old cabinet door from a recent kitchen remodel. I'm too cheap to throw anything away.

Used 1 1/2" conduit brackets to keep them in place and foam plumbing insulation for padding.

Shown propped up on the chair leg for viewing.

2004891713_VKBpedals.JPG.bd7a206a7af1d8637d925430471c1856.JPG

 

 

To keep the joystick firmly planted on the desktop I used two pieces of 1" aluminum 90 deg stock screwed together and mounted on the base using existing holes (6" center) and glued a few pieces of the foam plumbing insulation to keep it from scratching the desk any more than it is.

 

 

I also found 4" wheels for my office chair on Amazon to give me a 1" lift and better positions the joystick for my tastes.

Edited by Gordon200
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