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voncrapenhauser

Plastic Modelers in the IL-2 Community

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On 7/29/2020 at 2:31 AM, RAAF492SQNOz_Steve said:

 

Just picked up a Heng Long Early Tiger Tank, in the last week,  so far have been very impressed by it.  Has been on my to-do list for quite awhile and the Covid 19 lockdown pushed me into picking one up. Pleased to say that it is fully operational and I am already looking at upgrade options or a FPV camera. 

 

I purchased the Pro version with steel tracks and wheels and it certainly has a lot of weight to carry around.

 

The wife and Schnauzer are somewhat less enthusiastic about it all .......... 

How do you like your new Tiger? I just got a Challenger2 Pro version and received my new Ultimate Gearbox for my T-90 and Steel Gearbox for my Leopard 2. Unfortunately my M1A2 looks like it has a main board that needs replacing. I'll see if I can upgrade to the newer 6.0 versions.

 

I'd really like to get some WW2 stuff, but space is an issue.

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On 8/2/2020 at 10:45 PM, STN said:

Grumman J2F-2A ''Duck''
VMS-3
BuNo 1198
Bourne Field
Virgin Islands
1940

1:72 Valom

du10.JPG

 

Interesting plane the Duck! 

 

 

Duck 1.png

Duck 2.png

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That looks fantastic STN.  A job well done and the satisfaction of a very good save.  I wonder what you will do next. 

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Hesitate to post after STN's excellent duck but now onto weathering, it's trial and error but I like this bit :)

Any tips for weathering? Less is more seems to be the main theme...

 

IMG_0835.thumb.jpg.c9bf37dabd09726db7db618469836234.jpgIMG_0834.thumb.jpg.576430ab454673ed40638ecef1b7b9c6.jpg

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12 minutes ago, Feathered_IV said:

I reckon you nailed it. ;)

 

Cheers Feathered! :)

 

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Anyone who manages to successfully finish a 4 engine bomber deserves a medal. And god knows Revell kits are not that easy.

 

3 hours ago, Feathered_IV said:

That looks fantastic STN.  A job well done and the satisfaction of a very good save.  I wonder what you will do next. 

 

The next subject is already on the table and am cleaning the flash from parts. It is an italian beauty. It took me one year to find my balls and man up to start this one.

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Well folks, here is the new project. 

np00.JPG

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Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, Feathered_IV said:

I reckon you nailed it. ;)

Ditto .....Nice!

 

Interesting STN.....Hmmm??, looks like an Italian design possibly a Cant?

Edited by voncrapenhauser

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It is a Savoia Marchetti. Looks like one of the weird things pirates from "Porco Rosso" flew :)

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You always choose such excellent subjects.  Your collection must really be a sight to see.

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The collection is stored in airtight plastic containers until I find a place for a proper vitrine.

 

P.S: To be honest I chose this one because it is easier. I have chickened out of a Roden Gotha V. Looked at all the rigging an the parts in the box, took a deep breath and.... no... not yet...

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Nice!  The Gotha is high on my list for scratchbuilding. I’m keen to look into that once the Fe2b is out of the way. 

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Got mail from Japan yesterday, Y-Wing and Tie-Advanced. Spent a couple of hours to assemble the Y-Wing (it has around 40 small plastic tubes for the rear fuselage, apart from that it's quick and easy). Ready for painting now. Definately way more detailed than the X-Wing, which is currently on hold (not too impressed with the X-Wing kit, but then it's one of their cheapest kits).

 

IMG_1071.thumb.JPG.dba1c6f20474db4555591873ed65ed50.JPG

 

I ran into some trouble with the Snowspeeder. The enamel thinner used for the final wash reacted with some parts of the model that were not perfectly covered by the clear coat. That caused some stress cracks. Seems to be a common problem with Bandai kits, so i'll be more careful in the future or avoid enamel washes. I'll need some time to fix that.

 

I also decided to buy some Gunze acrylic colors, because i'm a bit fed up with the Vallejo colors clogging so easily. I think the Vallejos dry way too quickly, even when using their retarder. I read that Gunze colors take much longer to dry (which some might consider a disadvantage, but i don't) and they should work better for me.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Matt said:

Got mail from Japan yesterday, Y-Wing and Tie-Advanced. Spent a couple of hours to assemble the Y-Wing (it has around 40 small plastic tubes for the rear fuselage, apart from that it's quick and easy). Ready for painting now. Definately way more detailed than the X-Wing, which is currently on hold (not too impressed with the X-Wing kit, but then it's one of their cheapest kits).

 

IMG_1071.thumb.JPG.dba1c6f20474db4555591873ed65ed50.JPG

 

I ran into some trouble with the Snowspeeder. The enamel thinner used for the final wash reacted with some parts of the model that were not perfectly covered by the clear coat. That caused some stress cracks. Seems to be a common problem with Bandai kits, so i'll be more careful in the future or avoid enamel washes. I'll need some time to fix that.

 

I also decided to buy some Gunze acrylic colors, because i'm a bit fed up with the Vallejo colors clogging so easily. I think the Vallejos dry way too quickly, even when using their retarder. I read that Gunze colors take much longer to dry (which some might consider a disadvantage, but i don't) and they should work better for me.

Wow! Yes I steer well clear of mixing enamel and acrylics,...had my fair share of screw ups too, hope you can save it Matt.

 

I use Florey models washes as they are clay based and need nothing more than a wet finger or tissue to clean up, once dry they just need a matt or satin coat to seal in, just remember to seal any decals first and bobs your uncle. (as easy as pie I mean for any one but the Brits).

 

I love the Y wing design hoping to build a 1/18th scale one to go with The De Agostini X wing I am building(not started that one yet).

Edited by voncrapenhauser
Spelling as usual.

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On 7/26/2020 at 9:53 AM, voncrapenhauser said:

 

 

I find Vallejo acrylic matt finish spray over decals tone them down a treat.

Its strange stuff though ,when sprayed it appears to bead up on the surface and you think you have ruined your model.

But not the case it allways dries perfectly as long as you dont spray to much.

 

Anyone else used this stuff?

I use it always m8 but ive had it bead up on me before but that was because i bought an older batch , ive been using vallejo for years , you have to be careful with which batch you get , buy the new formula version or the older stuff gives you beading i find. i mix 80 vallejo 20 tamiya thinner..

Great work everyone , love the duck , been looking at the 1/48 version. Always liked the duck when i first saw it in the film Murphy's war.

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Posted (edited)
On 8/6/2020 at 11:11 PM, Buglord said:

I use it always m8 but ive had it bead up on me before but that was because i bought an older batch , ive been using vallejo for years , you have to be careful with which batch you get , buy the new formula version or the older stuff gives you beading i find. i mix 80 vallejo 20 tamiya thinner..

Great work everyone , love the duck , been looking at the 1/48 version. Always liked the duck when i first saw it in the film Murphy's war.

I always use the aerosol canned Vajelo now and it goes a long way IE the cans are always full unlike some products I could mention, I have had no disasters since🤪

 

It only appears to bead up to me but when it dries its really smooth.

I guess we all use the stuff we have had most success with I suppose.

Edited by voncrapenhauser
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Got the top colours on.  Thank goodness no peeling, ridges or bleed through after unmasking.

 

nKRXZe9.jpg

 

AiKOizE.jpg

 

EhWLbTg.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Some Y-Wing progress. Pretty happy with the chipping this time. Rear fuselage will get a brighter coat. Didn't do much to the cockpit, only painted some instruments and applied generous dry brushing. It will be almost hidden anyway.

IMG_10722.thumb.jpg.ee5f145f41bfd5c6ea50f870a9401e70.jpg

Next main tasks are painting the pilot (not sure which one i'll use) and masking and painting the canopy. 

 

Except for the yellow which is from Vallejo, i only used my new Gunze colors. They are a dream to spray with 50-70% leveling thinner. But it's a nightmare to clean the airbrush afterwards. But i ordered a couple more Gunze colors and coincidentaly, the shop which sells those just had the B-Wing on sale...

But then i'll atleast have the entire bunch of the fighters of the original trilogy.

 

  

On 8/6/2020 at 6:46 PM, voncrapenhauser said:

I use Florey models washes as they are clay based and need nothing more than a wet finger or tissue to clean up, once dry they just need a matt or satin coat to seal in, just remember to seal any decals first and bobs your uncle. (as easy as pie I mean for any one but the Brits).

Thanks, i couldn't really find those washes anywhere though. I think i'll probably just use the enamel washes very carefully and only do pin washes with those. Then i'll create other washes from my acrylic colors and will use that for bigger areas.

Edited by Matt
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Got back to the hobby after 16 years, with a 1/48 tamiya A6M3:

 

 

SllSgbg.jpg

 

painting using brushes has been challenging when it comes to getting crisp lines (spent an ungodly amount of time masking lol). These yellow strips on the leading edge have been challenging.

I'm probably half way done by now, it's getting along nicely

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Welcome back to the madness that is scale modeling lol.

 

,look forward to seeing the end result.

Edited by voncrapenhauser
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After fixing the cracks on the Snowspeeder and finishing the base (used some glass dust to simulate the snow), i somehow managed to lose the clear glass part of the canopy. Maybe it will turn up again or i'll order some acrylic glass panels. I also plan to replace the black stands of all models, while keeping the base plates. Not sure if that will work.

 

IMG_1093.thumb.jpg.88abb13794aa4c3330f5d7f81e997509.jpgIMG_1094.thumb.jpg.d60b2dc875767f425d8db4bdc3d9993f.jpgIMG_1095.thumb.jpg.cf7bb6200e0fcb247c7bce406fe6e32d.jpgIMG_1097.thumb.jpg.739fc36a87c84a0d749739ea26a7c241.jpg

 

I fixed the slightly bend left cannon after taking the photos.

 

 

Edited by Matt
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Thanks alot guys, i appreciate it.:thank_you:

 

Some more progress on the Y-Wing. Just losely assembled, it's basically just a test how the different colors work. I put a white mist coat on the white-grey parts to make them a bit brighter becaused they were a bit too dark. That also toned down the chipping, but i think it's still OK. I also repainted the yellow parts, i wanted a slighty darker and more golden-orange color. I think the canopy needs some blue. So i guess i have to remask again.

 

Will also need to apply some chipping to everything except for the white parts.. The struts on the engines need more white-grey and i'm not sure about the grey of the rear fuselage. And the actual engine exhausts are not painted yet, i'm still checking some references for that.

 

IMG_1098.thumb.JPG.ccfc74e9d1e8127dee70080cec62ad48.JPG

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13 hours ago, Matt said:

Thanks alot guys, i appreciate it.:thank_you:

 

Some more progress on the Y-Wing. Just losely assembled, it's basically just a test how the different colors work. I put a white mist coat on the white-grey parts to make them a bit brighter becaused they were a bit too dark. That also toned down the chipping, but i think it's still OK. I also repainted the yellow parts, i wanted a slighty darker and more golden-orange color. I think the canopy needs some blue. So i guess i have to remask again.

 

Will also need to apply some chipping to everything except for the white parts.. The struts on the engines need more white-grey and i'm not sure about the grey of the rear fuselage. And the actual engine exhausts are not painted yet, i'm still checking some references for that.

 

IMG_1098.thumb.JPG.ccfc74e9d1e8127dee70080cec62ad48.JPG

 

An artist at work :)

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Hey guys, what clear coat do you recommend? The model is painted with Tamiya acrylics, I also don't have an airbrush so I'm looking at spray cans.

 

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Tamiya do small spray cans of clear that work very well.  I used to use them quite frequently and was always pleased with the drying time and level of finish.  

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Looks a bit weird at the moment with a glossy finish and no shading or transparencies.  Managing to get on top of the decals though.   The roundels are made by stacking disks of prepainted blank decal film that have been cut with compasses and homemade die punches.  
 

8AD2A612-9B04-4430-9C3E-CE6F52C0B173.thumb.jpeg.0d134d5ce8fc1288f3a97a7386a043c4.jpeg

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9 hours ago, Feathered_IV said:

Looks a bit weird at the moment with a glossy finish and no shading or transparencies.  Managing to get on top of the decals though.   The roundels are made by stacking disks of prepainted blank decal film that have been cut with compasses and homemade die punches.  
 

8AD2A612-9B04-4430-9C3E-CE6F52C0B173.thumb.jpeg.0d134d5ce8fc1288f3a97a7386a043c4.jpeg

The red dot in the side roundel must only be a couple of mm across?.....Simply stunning mate.

 

Edited by voncrapenhauser

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I get the shakes just by looking at that. That is tiny.

  

18 hours ago, Birdman said:

Hey guys, what clear coat do you recommend? The model is painted with Tamiya acrylics, I also don't have an airbrush so I'm looking at spray cans.

 

I use Tamiya spray coats. Gloss clear TS-13 before applying decals and washing or other weathering and then Flat clear TS-80 as final coat. Works perfectly fine for me. Just make sure to not start spraying right on top of the model (to avoid thick splats of coat hitting the model) and move the can swiftly over the model to create thin layers. I use a distance of ca. 20 cm between can and model. They are dry to the touch after 10-15 minutes or so, but i would probably wait a bit longer just to make sure they are completely dry. 

 

They also offer satin finish i think, but i'm not using that (yet). 

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