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Melonfish

Does anyone Use a USB HUB for IL2 controllers?

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I have a single USB socket left on my pc, but I want to add a couple of throttle quadrants, does anyone else use a USB hub at all and have they found any problems with it?

For those who do use a hub, are you using a standard USB powered one or the type with a separate power source?

Thanks so much!

Pete

 

 

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I have a 4 way usb hub which takes all my controller peripheries for my horrible frankenlaptop setup. Works fine. It's an unpowered one & I'm running with the TM16000m FCS & pedals.

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I have a powered USB hub, with 7 USB 3.0 ports. I have my Joystick, Throttle, Rudder pedals,keyboard (and printer) all connected to the hub with no problems at all.

I wouldn't try to run that many peripherals on an unpowered USB hub tho'  - that would be asking for trouble.

 

Kind regards,

MDS1

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I use a USB hub with individual switches so i can turn them off if I want to without unplugging anything. I had no problems so far.

The reason why i wanted to have a quick sqwitch is that some games (e.g. Hitman, Assassin's  Creed) will automatically detect a controller and you cannot use the keyboard and mouse.

 

Here is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

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Yup, I have one with 4 ports, unpowered. It works fine with all my controllers.

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35 minutes ago, Diggun said:

I have a 4 way usb hub which takes all my controller peripheries for my horrible frankenlaptop setup. Works fine. It's an unpowered one & I'm running with the TM16000m FCS & pedals.

Exactly the setup I have so that's fantastic news thank you.

 

And thank you everyone who replied, i'll head off and get a hub 😄

 

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Yes I use a powered USB2 hub for my controllers, have done so for a number of years now.

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Anyone found a powered, switchable, USB hub that works with 230V/50Hz? The ones I've seen seem to be from US suppliers, and presumably use a 110v/60Hz mains transformer.

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I use a powered hub. This is the one I bought a few years ago to replace a very old powered hub and it has been working fine for my usb flight controllers.

powered hub

cheers -sf-

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Powered USB 2.0 hub. Powered so it works for lots of devices, USB 2.0 so it's cheap. I tried putting a webcam through it, didn't work very well, but the hub is fine for low bandwidth peripherals like joystick, throttle, pedals, quadrant, mouse and keyboard.

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Two powered 10-port, USB3.0 with individual on/off switches.  I have all the controllers on one and they stay powered on all the time.  The other is for minor gadgets like lighting, PS3 camera, wireless dongles, etc. which get switched off when not in use.

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If you get an USB hub, make sure it's a powered one.

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Not so long ago I had a frankenlaptop setup and used an unpowered hub (4 slots) on USB 3.0 port with only some minor issues until the day it simply fried...

 

 

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On 3/4/2019 at 8:13 PM, AndyJWest said:

Anyone found a powered, switchable, USB hub that works with 230V/50Hz? The ones I've seen seem to be from US suppliers, and presumably use a 110v/60Hz mains transformer.

 A lot of power supplies these days are 100-240V 50/60 Hz or even more tolerant.  This is also a boon for manufacturers, as they only have to change the plug to use for a different power supply system.  A lot of them also have user-changeable plug heads, sort of like an inbuilt travel adapter.

Part of this is due to the fact the more efficient, smaller switching power supply (Wikipedia entry) is commonly used and does not depend on a specific input voltage.

 

Once you know the power supply is OK for your electrical network, there are 3 more parameters that will tell you if a power supply will be OK or not.

  1.  The voltage (V) must be identical, or bad things will happen.
  2. The amperes (A) must be identical or greater on the power supply.
    Think 'horse power', greater is no problem. The amount of electricity flowing (aka amperes) is determined by the voltage offered by the power supply and the resistance inside the appliance. All the power supply has to do is to offer at least that.
  3.  The output plug must match physically and electrically to what the to-be-powered system expects.
    E.g. with a round plug with central hole --- a very common low voltage power connector --- the positive end may be in the middle or outside on the sleeve.  Obviously that should be correct, usually a small graphic will tell you that e.g. + is in the middle and - on the outside.

Power Adapter.jpg

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powered and non-powered USB hub users, does the JS, throttle quadrant, pedals not be mixed every time you startup your PC? 

 

 

Edited by Dutch2

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2 minutes ago, Dutch2 said:

powered and non-powered USB hub users, does the JS, throttle quadrant, pedals not be mixed every time you startup your PC? 

 

@Dutch2 No, my powered USB has seven populated slots, so far they have never got "Mixed up" .... that's the JS, Throttles, Pedals, Keyboard, Printer, Wireless mouse dongle and Speakers.

Kind Regards,

MDS1

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