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The_Locksmith

second joystick

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Well you guys helped me before with my track ir question. Now I have one more. Would it be possible to have a second joystick for other controls for maybe flaps, landing gear, or even trim control for pitch? Thanks!!

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Wait, you have a Sidewinder FFB 2 running on Windows7 64bit? That's must be with customised drivers, right?

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If you're not already using a separate throttle then that's a great way to get some extra buttons. I just purchased a CH products pro throttle and between that and my Logitech 3d  pro I find I have just about enough buttons for everything I want. Next purchase will be CH pedals and combat stick so I can stop using a twist rudder. 

 

-Dave

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Ok, thanks for the advice, I will give it a try .. after I get my FFB stick back which I gave away when I learned there were no more driver updates coming :(

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I have the thrustmasters flight hostas x, and im very pleased with it. Just like anyone here, I hate having to memorize keyboard bindings. So a separate stick would be great for a button bay. Any suggestions on what would be a nice addition? Nothing to crazy expensive, I just ordered the trackir5 , which im very excited for! :D

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Hmm, i understand how that board works, but i cant visualize what plugs into those ports, and whats connected on the other end of the wire. 

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Hmm, i understand how that board works, but i cant visualize what plugs into those ports, and whats connected on the other end of the wire.

the analogue axis simply have 3 wires to each pot and the switch bay is arranged as a matrix of 6x6 which = 36 button inputs, they list 32 but the last 4 are assigned as a hat switch, the website actually gives instructions on how to build a switch matrix.

 

2BU0836A_04.jpg2BU0836A_06.jpg

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:salute:  Thanks!   I will be looking into this. \

 

by the way,I assume you have built one yourself. If you dont mind, maybe post a pic so I can have a better idea

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:salute:  Thanks!   I will be looking into this. \

 

by the way,I assume you have built one yourself. If you dont mind, maybe post a pic so I can have a better idea

 

I did, years ago, junked it when I bought a Logitech g940 but kept the board, sorry no pics, it's really straight forward though and there is a community forum.

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I use a TM Warthog HOTAS setup ( stick and throttle ) ,and also a CH Throttle Quadrant, to give me some more sliders. Works no problem.

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Sorry, they used to have a forum but on checking it seems they shut that down, you have to email for support.

 

 

Ah okay, I was looking at their website and couldn't find the forum. .. no wonder Haha

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Hi. I built my own box from an old joystick. I am currently converting it to a Leo Bodnar board as described above.

 

http://616sqn.tidesofwar.net/pics/consol.jpg

 

As you see it fits to the vertical surface of the saitek throttle quadrant, which I highly recommend.

 

I have added:

Two sliders left of the blue Rudder Trim

A new Aileron Trim on the end

Two switches to the left of the Aileron Trim

A lever to the right of the Aileron Trim for Flaps

A switch below the gear switch for the Fuel Cock

 

All this and there is still more planned. I just have to fit stuff in the box. It's getting a little tight!!!

 

The switches and Axis can do anything really I just like to mark them up in a white on black cockpit style.

 

I use this box for IL2:1046, IL2:CloD, DCS:P51, IL2:BoS and RoF. It's great to have everything just under your throttle hand.

 

Once I have the new layout sorted I'm planning on building more for squadron mates.

As you'd expect they take a while to build and getting the mechanics inside working well is tricky. The Trims are geared down 3:1 for better sensitivity, In IL2:1046 F6F4 the pitch trim movement happens to match the cockpit pitch trim graphic movement so I must be about right!!!

 

GosA

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Thanks for your interest, that's very complimentary. I really haven't costed it up properly yet. I still have to work on a better internal design. More robust, simpler and easy to calibrate etc.

I'm hoping to keep it down to about $80 or less. But this is off topic so better stop before I get told off by moderators again. (br)Gos

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I use a Saitek Three Lever Pro Throttle Quadrant for that purpose and it has 6 buttons.

 

I also use Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Pedals and a Logitech G940 joystick which has its own trim system.  And, I extended the joystick handle by 8 inches with a piece of copper pipe.  I am very happy with that combination.

   

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You could always try picking up a used Saitek Av8r and use the buttons on that (it also has 2 throttles). That's what I've been doing as an interim solution until I decide whether its worth buying a dedicated throttle quadrant. I happened to have an Av8r that I wasn't using ( as a stick I could never get on with it).

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...  And, I extended the joystick handle by 8 inches with a piece of copper pipe. ...

 

How did you do that Wizz?

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Locksmith,

 

As a data point.  I currently have the HOTAS X also.  I also run a Saitek Pro Flight Quadrant for throttle (and have the two other axis on it to use for radiators, or mixture, or prop pitch, or whatever I want on that Flight Quadrant) (actually have 2 Pro Flight Quadrants total...that I use in ROF for independent engine controls).

 

I also run Saitek combat pro rudder peddles for rudder input as I became tired of the wrist twisting while controlling pitch and bank.

 

I don't really touch the throttle on the HOTAS X but use some of the buttons for things like flaps, gears etc.

 

I'm not saying its perfect, or the best, but the stick sits well in my lap NOT taking the HOTAS throttle off...and I get the extra buttons on the HOTAS throttle right there...and I like the availability of the extra quadrants on the Pro Flight better than the single throttle quadrant on the HOTAS X.

 

When the twin engine planes are released for us my plan is to see if the 2x quadrants work as well for me in BOS as they do in ROF.

 

Pieced this together over time, as you might figure.... for 2-2.5 times the price of the HOTAS X and 2 quadrants you get into x65 price ranges .. but that only gives you 2 throttle quadrants to work with.

 

Happy Flying !!

 

s/f

AldoUSMC

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Works nice with my xbox pc controller... for trimming and engine management.

 

What I miss by nw is some kind of relative control for analog stick axis used for prop pitch or trimming... it is always resetting when the stick centers. Needs some kind of relative control like in WT. This would be nice here....

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How did you do that Wizz?

It was about 2 years ago. And, when I actually looked at the stick again, I saw that at some point I increased the extension to 12".

 

I found a few photos that I took then. I need to take a couple more to be able to post a tutorial.

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Locksmith,

 

As a data point.  I currently have the HOTAS X also.  I also run a Saitek Pro Flight Quadrant for throttle (and have the two other axis on it to use for radiators, or mixture, or prop pitch, or whatever I want on that Flight Quadrant) (actually have 2 Pro Flight Quadrants total...that I use in ROF for independent engine controls).

 

I also run Saitek combat pro rudder peddles for rudder input as I became tired of the wrist twisting while controlling pitch and bank.

 

I don't really touch the throttle on the HOTAS X but use some of the buttons for things like flaps, gears etc.

 

I'm not saying its perfect, or the best, but the stick sits well in my lap NOT taking the HOTAS throttle off...and I get the extra buttons on the HOTAS throttle right there...and I like the availability of the extra quadrants on the Pro Flight better than the single throttle quadrant on the HOTAS X.

 

When the twin engine planes are released for us my plan is to see if the 2x quadrants work as well for me in BOS as they do in ROF.

 

Pieced this together over time, as you might figure.... for 2-2.5 times the price of the HOTAS X and 2 quadrants you get into x65 price ranges .. but that only gives you 2 throttle quadrants to work with.

 

Happy Flying !!

 

s/f

AldoUSMC

 

 

hey thanks for the help and input!  your set up seems pretty good. 

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Thanks for asking. When I was doing the mod I kept thinking that I should do this kind of post in case someone else wanted to try it. You motivated me to actually do it. So...

 

 

How I Extended the Handle of a Logitech G940 Joystick.

I tried to make the mod reversible so there is no cutting or soldering involved. It has been about 2 years since I did this mod so I am a little fuzzy on some of the details. If something doesn't work as described that is why.

 

 

post-7156-0-90454800-1390372350_thumb.png
Photo 1 - The handle with the 5 screws removed, the bottom hooks released and the right half removed. The red arrow points to where the top of the 1/2" i.d. copper pipe goes in the handle. The bottom of the pipe will rest on the top of the shaft and the top couple of inches of the tube will take the place of the shaft inside the handle.
The green arrow points to the connector that will have a "jumper cable" added to the plug. These are only wires that run through the handle into the body of the joystick, so they are the only wires that need to be extended.

 

 

post-7156-0-29492200-1390372353_thumb.png
Photo 2 - A better view of the socket and plug with the little circuit boards moved out of the way.
 

 

post-7156-0-46378200-1390372355_thumb.png

Photo 3 - The plug with the original wires. I think that I had to lift a tab to pull out each of the wires.

 

 

post-7156-0-40759600-1390372724_thumb.jpg

Photo 4 - One of the 2 pairs of wires that I found to make my jumper cable. These connectors slipped out of their socket after prying up the tabs. I stuck one of these on the ends of each of the original wires and wrapped the connections with electrical tape then the other end went back into the corresponding hole in the white plug. There should be lots of alternate ways to extend the wires.

 

 

post-7156-0-95198300-1390372366_thumb.png

Photo 5 - The extension in place. The plastic tape wrapped around the end of the pipe is indented with the impression of the other half of the handle. That compression of the tape holds tightly enough that I didn't have to try to reproduce the tabs found on the original shaft.

 

 

post-7156-0-47689500-1390372372_thumb.png
Photo 6 - This is the clamp that I made to attach the extension pipe to the shaft of the joystick. It is an old piece of 1 X 2 that I cut in half, screwed the pieces together and drilled a hole down the center of the joint that is the same diameter as the shaft and pipe.

 

 

post-7156-0-91756100-1390372376_thumb.png
Photo 7 - This is the inside face of the clamp. I used a chisel and utility knife to cut the notches for the tabs on the shaft into both halves. The tape gives the pipe enough friction to keep it from sliding or twisting in the clamp, but I can twist it a little to line up the handle with the base.

 

 

post-7156-0-86240200-1390373272_thumb.jpg

Photo 8 - The whole thing assembled, mounted on a kitty litter bucket that is cut down to bring the handle to the most comfortable height for me and bungeed to the side of my chair for stability.  It is not pretty, but it works quite well.
    
The extension made an immediate improvement in my shooting. I feel like I have much finer control with it. It started as an 8" extension then increased to 12" just by changing the pipe. Fortunately, I started out with extra long wire just in case.

I keep the Force Feedback on full. I can definitely feel it but it doesn't seem to throw off my aim like I thought it did before the mod.

Edited by Wizzzard
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I went the Bodnar route.  There is a step-by-step guide here  :http://riseofflight.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=350&t=19182.  I had no previous experience of soldering electronic components, but it was pretty easy to do.  The hardest thing actually was cutting slots in the lid of the "project box" to accommodate the sliders.  I used sliders rather than rotary pots because they were easier to work out and also provide a visual clue as to your trim etc settings.  Rotaries would be more space efficient.

 

Anyway the point is that it works for BoS (and Rof, IL21946, CloD) and was cheap and straightforward to make.

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