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Viktor_UHPK

MS FFB2 modded stick for you

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Dear fellow flight simmers,

In the last weeks I have been working on a MS Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 mod. I added a UH-1 / F-4 grip, rewired and programmed it with a teensy board, extended the stick with a carbon tube and soldered new resistors into the original FFB stick, to increase power. Finally I added a switch to the base, to be able to turn on/ off FFB power anytime.

I'm very happy with the result - in my eyes, this is a fantastic, while cheap DCS helicopter cyclic and a great general flight stick. Of course, any grip can be mounted. 
Getting there was not hard, but it took some time. Different mod instructions on flightsim forums helped me a lot. And now that I know exactly what is needed and what I have to do, I would like to give something back:
 

If you would like to have such a stick, write me a message. I don't want to earn money with this, but basically cover the expenses. So, I'm looking forward to your PMs!

 

Greetings,

Viktor

 

post-83167-0-77863800-1483641888_thumb.jpg

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Looks good.

To me you must be a wizard in electronics.

 

;)

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Thank you! To be honest, I don't know much about electronics either. The great thing is: Nowadays it's so simply to create own projects with the help of Teensy, Arduino etc. 

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This does look very interesting  :) and a generous offer

 

perhaps if you give indication of your location..EU/US/other/ this may be useful information 

 

Cheers Dakpilot

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Thank you guys!

I'm in Germany. Providing proper packaging I guess it's a matter of shipping costs. For those, interested in DIY, I can also supply a kit and instructions!

 

Greetings,

Viktor

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Hello

 

Very interesting mod to MSFFB2. I have flown with MSFFB2 almost 15 years and right now I have seven such joystics in a my collection.

On month ago I did this kind of repearing to one joystic.

post-13080-0-89558700-1483989124_thumb.jpg

 

post-13080-0-72376800-1483989139_thumb.jpg

 

post-13080-0-29199500-1483989155_thumb.jpg

 

So I am very interesting about our mod. If you have some information about this mod you can send PM for me.

Especially what kind of resitors you used to increase FFB power.

 

Greetings,

 

SFF_Vellu

 

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Hey Vellu!

Yes, the Sidewinder FFB2 is an amazing peace of Hardware. I'm just not so much a fan of the futuristic look - but that of course can be changed easily with a new grip. 

 

In order to increase FFB power, I used "1Ohm RC1206 0,25W 1R SMD" resistors. Soldering them on top of the existing ones (which are the same) will do the job. Here's a nice description: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=125281

 

If I can help in any way, let me know!

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Hey Viktor. Joystick is here and you did a great Job. Nice Contact, fast delivery and the Joystick is far better than before. Thank you very much for your effort. Will post a picture when iam at home.

Greets

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My new "cocpit is ready

 

Thanks to Viktor. He moded my circuit board and right now the joystik works very well.post-13080-0-39614800-1496601679_thumb.jpg

Edited by SFF_Vellu
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nice Setup.

After using Victors MSFFB Joystick a longer period now, i must say, this was the best buy i could made. Worth every Penny :)

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First test have done with the new version of MS FFB II.

I replaced original plastic gears with timing belt and feeling is absolutely different.

Right now in the joystic hasn't any gap and the feeling of gears is gone.

I attached few photos how I mod the joystic.

20181007_175233.jpg

20181007_175525.jpg

20190222_150743.jpg

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On 2/24/2019 at 11:54 AM, SFF_Vellu said:

First test have done with the new version of MS FFB II.

I replaced original plastic gears with timing belt and feeling is absolutely different.

Right now in the joystic hasn't any gap and the feeling of gears is gone.

 

Great idea with the belts! Will have to check into that myself. I see you're using my extension😁 how is it working for you?

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1 hour ago, SFF_Vellu said:

Your extension works very well with a moded circuit board by Viktor. 

I did that hack too. It really helps when extending it. Another nice hack i did is to solder the sensor wires together via a breaker switch. Then you can let go of the stick mid flight, and turn off the forces when not playing to spare the motors.

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On ‎3‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 12:24 PM, malexx74 said:

any plans on selling a modded Msffb2 ? :)

Sorry but I have't time to make a modded joystik to sell.

Other reason why I can't sell the modded joystik is that

I modded a 230V power source if I sell the modded joystik

responsibility for electrical safety would have mine.

Third reason is my wife. She thinks that I waste too much

time to this hobby...

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Hi, I tried to contact him to buy a second unit(the first still works like a charm) but he didn't answer, so .......

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On 10/11/2019 at 10:28 AM, SFF_Vellu said:

MXL from ebay

 


 

cant find big gear part :( found the rest. What’s the big gear part model/markings?

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I would be interested to know it too. That sounds like a wonderful upgragde and as far as I can tell it seems to be pretty straight forward, as long as you pick the right parts.

 

anyway, I gues that as long as you keep the ratio between the two pulley close to the original, it should not make a huge difference but I could be wrong in there

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I'm also interested, although it looks like custom milled parts to me. Also looks like more than just a part or two changed out.

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3 hours ago, Tazz said:

I'm also interested, although it looks like custom milled parts to me. Also looks like more than just a part or two changed out.

 

I mean, yeah sure he had to change more than a part.

 

beside that, from what I can see on the pics, and bare in mind that I have almost no idea of what I am talking about, I do not see that many changes.

 

So far, all we know is he used MXL timing belt, which is just a standard regarding the pitch of the belt. therefore we should be able to find some okay-ish part to mimic this.

 

The pulley/belt system being standard, we could for sure find some close match for these in any decent RS shop or anywhere you would find hobby parts. and It seems he just replaced the original gearing by the pulleys, so it seems kind of straight forward.

there seems to be tensionner to keep the belt in close contact with the pulleys but the fixture of the motors seems to be almost unchanged, despite holes for said tensioners. That is hopefull as I don't really have tools on hand to make a whole new mounting plate.

 

and of course the original shell has been replace to make space for the new system.

 

anyway, I am still super interested and I am currently closing a deal on a spare FFB2 as I don't want to butcher my good old one (things get sentimental with that kind of hardware). My plan is to do almost exactly what has been done here, whith a couple of twist to better suit my taste, but let's keep this topic on the road to share what we can grab

 

I think now is a good time to contact my local fablab to see what's up 🙂

 

 

 

 

Edited by OBT-Psycho
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11 hours ago, OBT-Psycho said:

 

I mean, yeah sure he had to change more than a part.

 

beside that, from what I can see on the pics, and bare in mind that I have almost no idea of what I am talking about, I do not see that many changes.

 

So far, all we know is he used MXL timing belt, which is just a standard regarding the pitch of the belt. therefore we should be able to find some okay-ish part to mimic this.

 

The pulley/belt system being standard, we could for sure find some close match for these in any decent RS shop or anywhere you would find hobby parts. and It seems he just replaced the original gearing by the pulleys, so it seems kind of straight forward.

there seems to be tensionner to keep the belt in close contact with the pulleys but the fixture of the motors seems to be almost unchanged, despite holes for said tensioners. That is hopefull as I don't really have tools on hand to make a whole new mounting plate.

 

and of course the original shell has been replace to make space for the new system.

 

anyway, I am still super interested and I am currently closing a deal on a spare FFB2 as I don't want to butcher my good old one (things get sentimental with that kind of hardware). My plan is to do almost exactly what has been done here, whith a couple of twist to better suit my taste, but let's keep this topic on the road to share what we can grab

 

I think now is a good time to contact my local fablab to see what's up 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

id be interested in purchasing 2 sets of needed fabricated parts (almost regardless of the price lol)

 

group order? but at least, share a blueprints, please

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Hello

 

I have got many Private messages about my mod. I added photo where is litle information about my od and also I did and added a sketch 

from big gear and it's bearing which is main component of mod.

I haven't exact measures because I did my joystic without professional documentation and I did it during long period.

MXL 160T pulleys are from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/MXL16-160T-Timing-Belt-Pulley-Synchronous-Wheel-Gear-Width-7-11mm-Pitch-2-032mm/254248000069?hash=item3b325c9a45:m:mgVhECqT_2__FbbzC3TpHrA

and MXL 10T pulley are from beltingonline https://www.beltingonline.com/10-tooth-mxl-pulley-al10mxl025fb-5165

I hope that these information clarify how I build my joystic.

 

Best Regards

 

SFF Vellu

 

20181007_175511.jpg

Joystic.jpg

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Hi,

Good project.why u not used bigger motor and change new h-briged driver motor and put out side pcb.u just get pwm .and connect to driver motor.just my edia.

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Cheers Vellu! Very helpful! If you remember, can you share which ball bearings you used in the gimbals?

 

Best,

Klas

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I used 4 x 13 x 4 ball bearings in the gimbals.

Original hole is 1/2" what means that the hole must be enlarge.

It is very easy job with a sanding paper.

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so you guy just made my day!

 

I am currently waiting for my spare FFB2 to arrive so I could take it apart and make measurement. but this is precious informations, and the sketch is almost priceless.

now I have an excuse to justify buying a mill and a lathe ;)

 

cheers mate 

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8 hours ago, OBT-Psycho said:

so you guy just made my day!

 

I am currently waiting for my spare FFB2 to arrive so I could take it apart and make measurement. but this is precious informations, and the sketch is almost priceless.

now I have an excuse to justify buying a mill and a lathe ;)

 

cheers mate 

You forgot a welding machine...

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if you'd be redoing the project, and would buy any ball bearings you can, which ones you'd recommend?

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13 hours ago, SFF_Vellu said:

You forgot a welding machine...

 

nice way to poor oil on the fire man ;)

 

no kidding, this could be made without too much tooling. I am eagerly waiting my unit to come in to take measurement and making some sketches.

 

out of curiosity, back in the old days there was a site compiling info about our beloved MSFFB2 and modifications made by some. 

here is an oudated example http://www.simprojects.nl/ms_siderwinder_ff2_hack.htm

 

is there a newer version or should we all spend hours digging old forum post on the internet?

 

 

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Simprojetcs articles is old, but not outdated relatively to MS FFB2, nothing new was developed latter.

 

What you may find different - specially in Russian forums is add bearings to gimbal pivots - what is covered in this topic here,

and/or replace X,Y potentiometer with contactless sensor*, e.g. GVL224 MagREZ (KMZ-41) of Hall (SS495A1, A1324LUAT).

 

Anyway in DCS forum (Input and output) are a old topic about combine two MSFFB2 mechanics in one for have more force, a complicated "Frankens'tick".

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On 10/21/2019 at 9:59 AM, SFF_Vellu said:

I used 4 x 13 x 4 ball bearings in the gimbals.

Original hole is 1/2" what means that the hole must be enlarge.

It is very easy job with a sanding paper.

I checkd ball bearings and I used 4 x 13 x 5 bearings in the gimbals. 5 is bearing's widht.

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18 minutes ago, SFF_Vellu said:

I checkd ball bearings and I used 4 x 13 x 5 bearings in the gimbals. 5 is bearing's widht.

 

Cheers, noted!

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Hey guys, i followed this thread and i might have an idea for that Mod SFF_Vellu did. He used a aluminium wheel and maybe a part for RC-Helicopters might do it as well. Look at this part for example: https://www.rcheli-store.de/RC-Helicopter/Align-T-Rex/T-Rex-550/Ersatzteile/Ersatzteile-T-Rex-550-V2-DFC/Hauptzahnrad-schraegv-Modul-1-112-Zaehne-T-Rex-550E-V2-PRO.htm?shop=rcheli&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=ALH60G001XX&t=34033&c=5851&p=5851&rdeocl=1&rdetpl=productpage&rdebox=box1

 

Maybe there are other brands with cheaper wheels. And i dont know if its the right diameter but i thought i post this so you guys can figure out if its worth using that instead of aluminium wheels. Maybe i should get an MS-FFB 2 too and sell my G940 which is unused anyway because of the way to big non ffb deadzone. My plan was to mod it at some time but its now a year later lol. ;) 

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I see you are a man of culture ;)

 

I had the exact same plan for a while, i.e. modding my G940 like they did on their FFB2 but I plugged my FFB2 just to have a feel and I was shocked by the difference of feeling with my G940

that's why I leaned toward a frankenstick based on the FFB2. But I don't rule out putting the stick of the G940 on the ffb2, even getting the board inside a new box in parallel to be able to keep the trim pots and the throttle.

 

but your idea is not a bad one. I don't think using RC helicopter gearing would make a huge difference. the improvement comes frome switching a gearing mechanism to a timing belt one. but once I have my spare in hand, I will take head toward the RC shop of my town to see how they can help me.

 

I agree the exact same pulley seems hard to find in europe and could be shipped from china in between 20-40 days but I'm not sure I'll be patient enough.

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