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Announcing Project VPC MongoosT-50

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My initial impressions after just a few hours use...I'm impressed! Stick came with the "no-center" cam, and the medium spring installed. Even with the tension adjusted I found that you need quite a bit of force to get maximum movement. So time for a spring change, and what I discovered is that you do not need to completely disassemble or remove the gimbal to replace the springs. I removed the bottom cover to give me access to the barrel nuts that hold the spring adjusting screws, I then removed the top cover by removing the 8 hex head bolts. At this point you can lift the top cover and rotate it about 90 degrees to get access to the roll adjustment screw. If you then tilt the cover back to the gimbal post you can access the pitch screw. Unscrew the retaining screw until it comes out with the spring, remove the plastic retainer, the spring, and the second retainer, just reverse the process with the spring of your choice. When putting them back in you have to make sure the screw lines up with the barrel bolt, hence the need to remove the bottom cover. After replacing the covers I plugged the stick back in and made some final adjustments to the pitch and roll springs. I really like the no-center cam, movement around the center is effortless with increasing resistance as you move outward. What really impressed me was the incredible smoothness of movement in game, super fine control, and the smoothness of the movement in the gimbal itself. In addition to Bos, I tried it out with the Gazelle in DCS, a tremendous difference in control was apparent. I found that with the no-center cam I do not feel the need to add an extension, as movement around the center is effortless. As far as the buttons go they all are very tactile and work great. One last note, the POV hat is shown as being a 4-way hat, when it fact it is an 8-way hat. I discovered this by accident when I ran Virpil's configuration software and was testing the hat, it showed all 8 positions in the test and I got it configured as 8-way in Bos. 

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My initial impressions after just a few hours use...I'm impressed! 

 

:good: 

 

 

Glad you are having a good experience with it, I certainly am loving mine!

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Is the base compatible with the warthog grip?

 

Yep, pins even match so just remove the T-50 grip and attach the Warthog grip.

Note though you will lose the axis on the paddle like you get with the T-50 grip.

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Alright - thanks.

Gonna keep my eyes open for preorder - my Saitek throttle is slowly falling apart .. lol xD

 

If i havent missed it already ^^

Edited by 9./JG27golani79

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I think if you already have the mongoose stick by the time the throttle comes out  you get 15% off the price of the throttle so that makes it a pretty good deal.

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I am very much looking forward to the throttle offering from Virpil, whenever it does come out.

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I think if you already have the mongoose stick by the time the throttle comes out you get 15% off the price of the throttle so that makes it a pretty good deal.

Unfortunately I dont have the stick - still enjoying my FFB2 while my X-55 is gathering dust :D

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They shipped my package on Dec 22, it left Belarusian customs on the 27th and it's been on tracking limbo ever since.

 

Anyone had something similar happen?

Im just really excited.

 

Has anyone received the CM (upgraded) stick? Any first impressions?

Edited by Jade_Monkey

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They shipped my package on Dec 22, it left Belarusian customs on the 27th and it's been on tracking limbo ever since.

 

Anyone had something similar happen?

Im just really excited.

 

Has anyone received the CM (upgraded) stick? Any first impressions?

 

Yep, mine showed in limbo for several days until it just showed up unexpected one day.

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They shipped my package on Dec 22, it left Belarusian customs on the 27th and it's been on tracking limbo ever since.

 

Anyone had something similar happen?

Im just really excited.

 

Has anyone received the CM (upgraded) stick? Any first impressions?

I ordered 22 Dec but status is pending for now.

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Mine is supposed to leave customs today so I should have it tomorrow. It spent there 2 weeks because folks in customs couldnt read that order number was the same as on bank transfer confirmation. I had to call them today and confirm that everything is fine. I wont be charged with any additional border taxes but still have to pay VAT. So price is bumped by 23 % that eats beloved state.

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Mine is supposed to leave customs today so I should have it tomorrow. It spent there 2 weeks because folks in customs couldnt read that order number was the same as on bank transfer confirmation. I had to call them today and confirm that everything is fine. I wont be charged with any additional border taxes but still have to pay VAT. So price is bumped by 23 % that eats beloved state.

Thats precisely the reason why I'm waiting for it to be in stock on amazon. Makes live easier for both.

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Yep, mine showed in limbo for several days until it just showed up unexpected one day.

Thanks! That's what i figured. Hopefully I get home today just to find a big ass box in my doorstep.

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Thanks! That's what i figured. Hopefully I get home today just to find a big ass box in my doorstep.

 

Just a heads up I am pretty sure they ship those "signature required".  When they tried to deliver mine I was not at home, and had to sign a form and leave for them. It was delivered the next day.

Edited by dburne

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Got my T-50 base 2 days ago. Initially I was bit unsatisfied by 2 reasons:

 

- The no-center and light-center cams have require a high force when the joystick gets pushed to the maximum deflection. (its the worst on the no-center cam wich will happily move in the middle and need a ton of force on the outside) - The hardcenter cam however requires very little force when the joystick is near its max deflection. 

- The cams were secured by industrial threadlock (color code red - the strong one) - I needed to heat the screws to about 250°C (with a hot air blower) before I could loosen them (removed most of the electronics but still needed to be very careful at that heat) and then still my allen key went through on 2 screws so i had to drill them out with much effort trying not to destroy the thread in the deflection mechanism. This took me about 3 hours and quite some pain in the ass. In the end it all worked out and I put new (supplied with the base) screws in and can now freely change the cams.

 

Given point 1 I mentioned I put the hard center cam on the roll axis (to be able to reach maximum deflection without much hassle) and the soft center cam on the pitch axis and have both using the light springs that came supplied. Also I used the 5cm extension. 

Now I am super happy and the product shows how great it really is. It is super accurate but i can still dogfight and do fast manouvers if required and this with a lot more precision than before.

 

I think that the red industrial threadlock was likely a problem with this production batch and not intended? I certainly hope so - anyone who see this red threadlock - be careful! 

As for the cams I wish they would have had the maximum deflection cam positions redesigned to be less strong. As I like the soft- and no-center cam (for their smoothness in the center) a lot I'll likely grind it off at the edges and see how that will pan out.

Edited by 216th_Jordan

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I haven't changed any cams yet, I did switch to the light springs. Agreed that it takes a lot of force to move to the outer edges, I'll wait a while longer before playing with the cams. Thanks for your report.

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I think that the red industrial threadlock was likely a problem with this production batch and not intended? I certainly hope so - anyone who see this red threadlock - be careful! 

As for the cams I wish they would have had the maximum deflection cam positions redesigned to be less strong. As I like the soft- and no-center cam (for their smoothness in the center) a lot I'll likely grind it off at the edges and see how that will pan out.

 

The cams have been the bane of this great stick, I would have thought by now they would have had that worked out. I too had to try to drill my first gimbal to get those screws out, but in my case ended up fubar'ing the gimbal itself. Got another one and that one has been doing great, have logged many hours on this thing since getting it and I love it.

 

One thing I find odd, is I run the soft center cams and soft springs. Mine is not that hard to go full deflection. Maybe because I am running pretty long on the extensions - 150 mm.

 

My second gimbal I had them put the soft center cams and soft springs in for me, no way do I want to attempt it again. My cams are a little rough, and they kindly sent me replacements, but as I do not notice it really whilst flying I decided to not attempt to replace the cams.

 

Virpil would do themselves a huge favor if they could get this cam issue that keeps popping up sorted. Even with what I have been through with mine, I would not want to fly without it.

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All good info to know.

 

Still waiting for mine. 20 days (and waiting) after they told me it shipped is a really long time, especially when you are expecting a new toy :(

 

I keep going home after work with my hopes up just to be disappointed.

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All good info to know.

 

Still waiting for mine. 20 days (and waiting) after they told me it shipped is a really long time, especially when you are expecting a new toy :(

 

I keep going home after work with my hopes up just to be disappointed.

My order status is "Sent" :-) bought 22th of Dec

 

Got my T-50 base 2 days ago. Initially I was bit unsatisfied by 2 reasons:

 

- The no-center and light-center cams have require a high force when the joystick gets pushed to the maximum deflection. (its the worst on the no-center cam wich will happily move in the middle and need a ton of force on the outside) - The hardcenter cam however requires very little force when the joystick is near its max deflection. 

- The cams were secured by industrial threadlock (color code red - the strong one) - I needed to heat the screws to about 250°C (with a hot air blower) before I could loosen them (removed most of the electronics but still needed to be very careful at that heat) and then still my allen key went through on 2 screws so i had to drill them out with much effort trying not to destroy the thread in the deflection mechanism. This took me about 3 hours and quite some pain in the ass. In the end it all worked out and I put new (supplied with the base) screws in and can now freely change the cams.

 

Given point 1 I mentioned I put the hard center cam on the roll axis (to be able to reach maximum deflection without much hassle) and the soft center cam on the pitch axis and have both using the light springs that came supplied. Also I used the 5cm extension. 

Now I am super happy and the product shows how great it really is. It is super accurate but i can still dogfight and do fast manouvers if required and this with a lot more precision than before.

 

I think that the red industrial threadlock was likely a problem with this production batch and not intended? I certainly hope so - anyone who see this red threadlock - be careful! 

As for the cams I wish they would have had the maximum deflection cam positions redesigned to be less strong. As I like the soft- and no-center cam (for their smoothness in the center) a lot I'll likely grind it off at the edges and see how that will pan out.

I hope I would not have to doing that .... btw do you use extensions ? and most important question how to do it  in Berlogas furballs Jordan?

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The stick is very good you don't need extension its very precise . Buttons are great .

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I find my settings now the best also for berloga. I use that smallest extension but with a warthog grip, I think its a bit shorter anyways. In dogfights quick hard movements are needed so I chose the smallest extension while it still gives me very accurate movements. I find roll to be extremely important thats why I chose the hard cam with lower outer force for roll.

 

On pitch I wanted to have more force near max deflection so I don't pull to high angles but also some centering force to reduce oszillation and be precise on small corrections.

 

You might have seen me on Berloga the last 2 days, didn't want to leave the furball at all :biggrin:

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SO I finally had time to open the box and try it out - so far I'm really impressed with the stick. I use all three extensions and I feel very well with this. I will write some longer review after  I try it  out and learn all features.

For now I have one question - is it only me or BoS does not recognize the lever in front of stick as Z axis but assigns it as button ? I thought it would be useful for all the aircraft that have parking brake handle on the stick rather than toe brakes and it works like than in DCS with no problems. But BoS sees it only as a 0 - 1 button which doesnt help at all. 

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For now I have one question - is it only me or BoS does not recognize the lever in front of stick as Z axis but assigns it as button ? I thought it would be useful for all the aircraft that have parking brake handle on the stick rather than toe brakes and it works like than in DCS with no problems. But BoS sees it only as a 0 - 1 button which doesnt help at all. 

 

No it should see it as an axis.

 

Very it is showing axis movement in windows game controller. Warning, do not attempt to calibrate in Windows, just view the axis movement.

 

Be sure and click on the axis part of the controller assignment in BoS key mapping.

IIRC when assigning you may need to start out by depressing the axis app half way then assign to get it to register properly.

Edited by dburne

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It  is showing axis movement in windows, in vpc software and in dcs. But not in BoS. In BoS its assigned as button 18.

 

Clear that assignment, then assign as an axis ( as I previously described, be sure and click on the axis curve icon).

 

Well maybe there is not a curve icon, just checked. Note it says in axis assignment to start with axis centered. Believe you just need to depress the axis lever about halfway then assign. Then it will not pick up the button press.  Going by memory here but I had the same problem figuring it out.

Edited by dburne

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It would be so much easier if I could select axist myself like other games and programs allow instead of assigning manually. Will keep trying dburne, thanks for the assistance.

 

One thing that I've noticed is how amazing slashing attacks work for me now, with complete extension set and proper hand position the precision is unparalleled. 

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It would be so much easier if I could select axist myself like other games and programs allow instead of assigning manually. Will keep trying dburne, thanks for the assistance.

 

One thing that I've noticed is how amazing slashing attacks work for me now, with complete extension set and proper hand position the precision is unparalleled. 

 

:good: 

 

That it is!

I am running 150mm of the extensions myself, and love it.

 

Post back if you get it figured out or not on the brake axis. It is a little tricky.

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It would be so much easier if I could select axist myself like other games and programs allow instead of assigning manually. Will keep trying dburne, thanks for the assistance.

 

One thing that I've noticed is how amazing slashing attacks work for me now, with complete extension set and proper hand position the precision is unparalleled. 

This lever is a axis, but can press a button too.

 

Seems BoS interface are picking teh button first.

 

Try, press and hold the lever, open "wheel brakes assignment" maybe the axis are only detect inverted (happen with some pedals) and in this way pick axis first.

 

If not, look at the Windows Games Controller for this axis name and assign manually in "current.actions" (Input folder in game folder).

 

rpc_wheel_brakes,                                  joy1_axis_z,                                    0| // Wheel brakes

 

Replace this "joy1_axis_z" with the name you see in Windows Games Controllers (or look at DCSW controls for the name).

 

Could be, e.g. joy2_axis_u... etc.

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Thanks Sokol1, I now have my brake lever working as an axis and the 'axis curve icon' now shows in right hand column.

 

The first method of holding the lever on or half way didn't work. it still only recognized a button press.

 

I had to edit the 'current.actions' file (using Notepad++). Mine was on line 169.

 

Was:

rpc_wheel_brakes,                                 joy6_b18,                                            0|

 

Now:

rpc_wheel_brakes,                                 joy6_axis_z,                                         0|

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Ordered mine on the 28th December, and been checking status every day. This morning it's changed to 'sent' (on the 12th Jan) and is currently sat in Minsk for export customs inspection.

Edited by Archie

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Well, I'm still learning but today spend 3 hours flying a Yak and stability, control-ability and accuracy were outstanding. No wobbling at all, deflection shooting like a dream and maneuvering like a biplane. It's hard to describe but ability to ride the stall with this thing ... 

I'm just so impressed by this stick. 

  • Upvote 1

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Well, I'm still learning but today spend 3 hours flying a Yak and stability, control-ability and accuracy were outstanding. No wobbling at all, deflection shooting like a dream and maneuvering like a biplane. It's hard to describe but ability to ride the stall with this thing ... 

I'm just so impressed by this stick. 

 

:good: 

 

It is quite impressive!

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Well, I'm still learning but today spend 3 hours flying a Yak and stability, control-ability and accuracy were outstanding. No wobbling at all, deflection shooting like a dream and maneuvering like a biplane. It's hard to describe but ability to ride the stall with this thing ...

I'm just so impressed by this stick.

Good to hear ,this is default settings?

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I also went with the 150mm extensions, I had troubles before because I put the stick too low so the angle between my upper and lower arm were not good. I like the 150mm a lot now and also changed the spring to normal again to compensate for the lower forces needed. (Kept roll on light for now however).

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