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Allons

Logitech G 940 Flight System

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Thank you Allons.

 

I would be very grateful if anyone has a good CloD profile to share.

Earlier in this thread, OBT-Psychopoak said he had a profile which used all three mode switches!

OBT-Psychopoak,if you read this, would you like to share?

 

Many thanks,

Kais.

Edited by Kais

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hep, sure,

 

here it comes : 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9oadd7z8jnpexri/G940%20Profile%20CloD.zip

 

As I said to Kais, if you want to use it be sure to backup your files before replacing them by mines.

 

Commands names are in french but should be easily translated by any translator on the internet.

 

If you have trouble using it, let me know.

 

 

BTW :

mode 1 : take-off and landing

mode 2 : combat and assault

mode 3 : bombers

 

there are some command that are not easy to find, feel free to adapt it to better suit your usage.

 

All credits for this profile go to EFG-MikeSky who provided it first. I just slightly changed some command 

  • Upvote 2

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Does anybody use the Logitech Profiler Software to send "commands" ? For example P8 on throttle is mapped to RAlt+C for Canopy open/close.

Does anybody see a difference in reaction between LGS mapped keys and direct assigned buttons (in game)?

 

Here it seems like direct assigned buttons react short and precise and "LGS-mapped.Commands" are slow an unprecise.

 

Does anybody confirm it ?

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I kind of confirm it... but there is a workaround for it.

 

I noticed the same thing in Cliff of Dover. I have a key mapped to open the floor window on the stuka on a hat. This is mapped as a "command" in the LGS. when I want to open it, it move erratically. but once I used my keyboard with the correct input it moves smoothly.

 

same goes for the directional giro, which become a PITA as it is used for autopilot corrections.

 

I discovered than in some cases, if you use LGS "keystroke" way to map whatever you want, you get rid of this problem.

 

I guess it has something to do with the way LGS record input while using command function. It records the actual sequence of input on keyboard thus any delay would be reflected once used through LGS.

 

so try using "keystroke" rather than "command" when trying to set up your profile.

 

BTW this won't allow you to rename any keystroke. which makes it unfriendly once you have several input as in CloD, but make a list of all of this and take your time, it should go along well.

 

Again, this is all supposition and I haven't managed to get a deeper look into this...yet

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Does anybody use the Logitech Profiler Software to send "commands" ? For example P8 on throttle is mapped to RAlt+C for Canopy open/close.

Does anybody see a difference in reaction between LGS mapped keys and direct assigned buttons (in game)?

 

Here it seems like direct assigned buttons react short and precise and "LGS-mapped.Commands" are slow an unprecise.

 

Does anybody confirm it ?

I use that command to get the functionality of the pinky switch in-game to get double functionality from all the buttons/switches in the G940. Avoid using the option where you record the keystrokes because as OBT-Pschopoak said it records any delays as well and this can cause problems sometimes. I got around this for my custom G940 profile by recording only the keypress down for SHIFT and not the release, but you can always just assign the keystrokes to make your life easier.

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Thanks guys for replying. WIth the "keystrokes"  i had the same experience but thats not a "solution". I didn't have such problems in CloD or Il-2. The LGS has also other bugs when recording RAlt+someting. I records CTRL+Alt+something. You can edit the exportet .xml-profile or press RCTRL before pressinf the "record"-button in LGS.

I opened a support-case at logitech in 2011 but nothing happened. The software is version 5.10 from 2010. Slightly outdated.

I even suggested to integrate the Gamecontrollers in the new software 8.52 where mice and gaming-keyboards are configured so you can use a once configured command on any device.

 

It seems like logitech isn't supporting the gamingdevices any further.

 

Very sad !

Edited by Lemmi

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nop they are not.

 

5.10 seems to be the last version of their software, and they are not even selling it anymore. So take car of you now collector FFB hotas, which is now one of a kind.

 

so this did not solve your problem huh? I wonder how I will set up my stuf for Bos, as I like the switch for the 3 modes, but the LGS is killing by being so... "unperfect" and not being supported anymore. Maybe I will go with the direct input in the game, but it depends how many command will be avalaible at the end for the game.

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It's like castration of a versatile device using the direct input method. No 3 modes neither the "shift-key" wich i used really often.

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you can use the shift button, however it is not convenient at all.

 

I remember when I had my first hotas several year ago. It was a X-52, bought to replace a FFB2 which came back to the game once I realized how important FFB was to me.

 

as I was young and not really aware of the enormous source of information internet could be, I did not used the software profiler and made a series of input directly in the game. And as I understood at this point, the pinkie button was called the "shifht" button so I naturally went into the game and mapped this as "shift". therefore secondary input were made according to that. 

 

it was tedeous but I doubled the number of button avalaible so it worked for a while.

 

then I get a hand on a well-made profile and discovered the true meaning of HOTAS!

 

now I can't do without it. Sometimes there are quirks and bugs, it is complex to create and there is no point using somelse's without several changes, but it worth it. 

 

and the rise of VR technologie we have seen so far make me think we will need a hotas to fully appreciate the imersion these babies can provide.

 

 

so I will cherish my G940 until something better comes into market. Hydraulic FFB, or even HOTAS would be a dream, but so far if any company would take the plunge and put a new FFB stick into maket, it would be a great start.

 

so either we try to find a way around these bugs, or if there is not we try to forget them

Edited by OBT-Psychopoak

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During flight level - it reach some optimal strength and/or hardness! Still I would like to see that the hardness is changing more gradual during different speed is achieved. At the moment I can't figure out if this is due to the FF code in the came or it is software issue in the joystick controller itself!

 

 

for hardness to change more gradual, curve must be more linear. i tried that a lot as i was using a extremely curved "curve" in RoF and i didn not know why i was so bad. it was great in mid section but FFB was suddenly building up a wall as i came to outer stick positions. and movement and precision was very sluggish withing that "wall" area.

 

i found for G940 FFB to be as linear as possible your curve needs to be as linear as possible. the more curve you ahve set the more erratic and jumpy FFB gets. at least that is my expirience.

 

i rly have problems with the plane, in RoF and BoS when its close to stall speed the plane gets very twitchy with almost no FFB. maybe i should try centering spring? have that deactivated.

 

 

also when you let go the stick, does it return to center position for you guys? for me it doesnt on pitch axis. i am not sure  why. made extra thread here in controllers section. :(

Edited by Fokkxor
  • Upvote 1

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I set my G940 stick axis at 100% sensitivity in the profiler and 20% in game. This gives me 1-1 mirror image of my stick moving exactly as it is in the cockpit of the pane in game. However my stick is extended. I also found that I needed to turn the overall force feedback strength up for BOS where I would normally have it lower in other games. Centering spring is bad I would stay away from it. 

Edited by driftaholic

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finished :D

 

to my surprise its realy firm, it feels like it could hold forever. logitech outdone themself with that, big company save every dime, put bad poti and stuff, but in stick they put enough to make extension out of the box? that is funny :D

 

anyways, i see how it goes, as said feel firm, and i dont have strong FFB so that should work out.

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Really having a hard time deciding to buy or not to buy the Logitech G940 (can get a new one for 230 EUR).

So far I am really happy with my Saitek X52 Pro with Saitek pedals.. but FFB sounds like a big plus concerning immersion.

On the other hand I read about several problems with the G940 (centering, spikes, rotaries, throttle-reversal).. some of them may be fixed without much effort... others, like the throttle reversal maybe not.

Hmhmhm... this really is one tough decision

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The stick is really good, I couldn't live without FFB anymore.

Pedals are also quite good.

Throttle is the weakest part for sure.,

I stopped using rotaries first, now I don't use even throttle Ievers anymore - re-mapped throttle to my Saitek Pro Throttle Quadrant.

Nothing special, but at least no reversal bug and spiking (so far).

So now I use just buttons on my G940 trhottle...

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I had spiking in my rudder and throttle. It turned out to be loose spade connectors and was as easy as squeezing them a bit tighter then putting them back on the pots. For the throttle I just ever so slightly bent the pins and re-installed the connector.

Edited by driftaholic

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hi guys 

I just wanted to report back my little adventure I had with my G940.

 

As you all know, issues have been descibed regarding rotaries on the throttle. They seem to spike badly depending of your unit condition. these are mainly due to poor wire quality and too short length of these wire. it causes these wire to worn, hence the trouble.

 

One of the few fixes I've seen is to remove a screw supposed to guide the wire, but causing to much stress once you apply throttle.

 

I planned to open up the throttle and see what's what, wich I did monday. I didn't notice anything that bad, playing with the cables did not show any breach or something. But once I got it all reassemble, mode button was not functionning anymore, neither "X axis" on the lower hat.

 

I had no other options that to fix it once and for all if I wanted to use this expensive but wonderful hotas.

 

So did I!!!  I ordered some wires, some heat shink tube and some patience. 

 

it took me roughly an hour to disassemble completely the throttle. I had to take notes of which part goes where and how it was assembled, but I ended up with a molex connector of 12 wires. 

Once I cut the protection, I spotted the culprit of most of my troubles : a brownish wire was cut.

 

As I knew the lenght and the quality of the cable was the main reason of the spiking, I replaced them by 10/0.1mm wire. After a night of soldering, each wire has been replaced by a longer and larger one. 

 

The came when I had to put everything back together and test the result. I could'nt resist and dit it yesterday night, between 1 and 2 AM but I was totally worth it! I spent the night with a smile on my face as everything went way better than expected!

The larger wires make it harder to get them through the lever, but it is now a snug fit wich seems to secure them inside lever.

The extra length (which is approximatively 5cm compared to original wires) helps a lot as now they confortably sit on around the base PCB. so there wil be no more stress on the wires. 

 

So afterall, I can't do anything but encourage any owner of this hotas to do exactly the same. It is a cheap fix (less thant 10€ of material, I juste borrowed a soldering iron to my dad) and I basically need no skill to do that. Just a few hours of your time, and also a bit of patience and logic. I would recommend to take picture of each step to ease to way to put it back together but it is totally worth it.

 

now for the result : each button is back to its function, rotaries are smoother and no more spiky. So it took me a while to take the plunge, but I don't regret it at all.

 

next step you say? verify it wire won't brake in a couple of month. If this happens, I will completely replace them instead. But as I did'nt have the plier to put connectors on the wire, I did't do it this time.

 

I seriously think about my rudder now. I would like to clean the pot, and solder the wires to it. maybe will it reduce the interference I encounter every once in a while. 

 

I have seen a couple of mods for the stick though. It would improve cooling of FFB motors, ad reduce some of the woble. but I will have to wait a bit more.

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Also take your rudder apart and tighten the fit of the spade connectors to the encoder. 

 

Lastly if you want to crack the stick open you can shim the bearings and even replace them with new ones. I also wrapped a small amount of electrical tape around the motor mounts  (not the motors as they have cooling issues) to tighten them up in the chassis so they don't jump around in there making noise. 

 

Here is some related info. 

http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Logitech-G-Controllers/G940-loose-bearings/td-p/591488

 

Want even more realism try extending the stick a bit with some electrical conduit. 

 

One last mod i did was to put come cardboard behind the detent springs in the throttle as the detents were very hard to feel. 

Edited by driftaholic
  • Upvote 1

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thanks for the infos mate. 

 

your posts helped me to take everything apart and the next step I mentioned was refering to your mods. I have had some cooling issue this summer, with the FFB going off due to overheating. my "man cave" being a small room of my 4th floor appartment, you can imagine than 2h+ coop made the temperature rise a bit...

 

I once thought of drilling holes in the base to help, but it would have need a fan to circulate the air. so I am left with passive cooling system like the one you describe. 

 

I could also recut the part were the stick sit while I play. I made a floor mount according to rodger dodger blueprints. the base of the stick is a rectangle of 18mm wood. I think I will have to cut this piece in a X shape or something similar. it could help heat exchange. or even replace it with some aluminium plate or something close, but I have to think about the stiffness of the final mount.

 

anyway, thanks for all the work you've done on this hotas. it lacks a couple of hour in the R&D labs, but at the hand it remains the only FFB hotas ever made and it even includes a rudder!! it is totally worth the priced I paid for it, I even ended up learning solder. which may lead to a whole new world of future projects. so it is a Win/Win situation at the end

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by the way here is some doc I gathered while I was planning my work : 

 

- throttle wire replacement : 

 

http://littleguysbloog.blogspot.be/2012/08/g940-flight-system-throttle-r1-r2-fix.html

 

http://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/105489-g940-throttle-fix/

 

- next step, pedal fix :

 

http://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/105489-g940-throttle-fix/

 

in addition to that, instead of tightening wire connectors, I would like to solder it once and for all to the pots.

 

- in the (near) future, stick improvement :

 

http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Logitech-G-Controllers/Logitech-G940-HOTAS-some-hardware-tweaking/td-p/1224034

 

which is basically what you propose with a couple more instruction and pics (or is it definitely the same persons and it means I really need some sleep) 

 

I heard of some people putting a LeoBodnard board  to replace the original one with some quite sucess. It seems to make spiking disappear, but I think it also render mode switch unusable. And quite franckly I can't think of using only one mode not that I am use to it. It should not be a concern for BoS, as the number of inputs seems reasonable. But once it comes to CloD, it is a totally different story and I have just enough inputs on the G940 so I don't have to move my hand from the hotas.

 

I have seen a couple of stick length mod and quite franckly it is interesting. 

 

I wonder though if the larger lever made by the additional lenght wouldn't add some workload on the FFB motors. so much that they would wear out way faster or even brake them or brake a part in the mechanism. any thought on that?

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Has anyone had any luck mapping the trim 1,2,3 wheels to elevator, aileron, rudder trim; respectively? I have found posts on this forum saying analog trim is not implemented (yet), just curious if anything has changed.

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Has anyone had any luck mapping the trim 1,2,3 wheels to elevator, aileron, rudder trim; respectively? I have found posts on this forum saying analog trim is not implemented (yet), just curious if anything has changed.

I like to know this all so.

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But  we are talking about BOS not DCS or ROF.

 

So it is not possible in this game.

Again, of course it is possible, the developers / programmers just have to add it in. If DCS, ROF, FSX and other flight simulators can do it, so can BoS! Why do you think it is "not possible"?

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I think they have to want to do, it before it gets done.

 

They seem to be in more of a hurry to squash any means we have to lessen the torture of SP unlocks than to actually fix glaring issues like trim, considering the game is now released it doesn't look like something that will get fixed.

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New owner of one of this! :yahoo:

 

At first I was a bit disappointed with the big ffb deadzone but after a firmware upgrade it stiffened up nicely.

It's strong! Much stronger feedback compared to the MSFFB2. On default settings I could barely move the stick without tipping the base. Played around with the ffb settings and found that 100% Overall Strength, 55% Centering effect, 0% Damping effect and no Centering spring felt good to me. Pitch has enough resistance to make flight stable and I can move the stick around both axes smoothly. Stronger effects than that and I had trouble deflecting ailerons while simultaneously pitching the stick.

Really like the buttons also, the dual stage trigger is super nice.

 

The pedals action is smooth as butter but I found the deflection/range is a bit short as they are spaced quite close to each other.

The throttle felt sturdy but lacked rotaries that I could use comfortably without changing my grip. It's also a bit taller so it didn't fit my desk height. 

 

Together with this and the pot spiking issue I decided to pair the G 940 stick, x55 throttle and the saitek flight rudder pedals for now.

 

I'm very happy with the stick. Hope it can last for many years!  :good: 

Edited by =LD=Penshoon

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Also, should I use damping effect? When I first saw the options I thought that centering effect is for planes and damping for helicopters? Is this incorrect? 

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Spiking issues is only due to loose connectors. Tighten them up and there is no more problems. I'm considering selling my G940 if anyone is interested. I've done all the internal upgrades solving all the flaws. and I've added a 6" extension. 

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I would be very grateful if someone can send me a profile for the G940 in BoS and some words of instruction.

Master

+1

Still no one is published profiles for BoS 

 

If someone is done that please share it, so others do not need to find free time for that and can use it for flying :)

 

thank you in advance

Edited by 102nd-YU-VUK

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Hi Sensei,

as Belgian I hate to disagree with other countrymen, but I have no problems with my throttle assignement. it has always worked well, once properly set up. So maybe there is something to look at if you have trouble with your throttle.

 

As for the FFB it has always worked well, but BOS and RoF render it way better and in a more subtile manner than CloD and 1946.

 

I also can't assign either throttle. I tried separating to engine 1 & 2 but my throttle axis(s) arn't registering anywhere? Please help - Everything thing else works. - But also trim just works one-way/ can crank it to 100% but not back?

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