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voncrapenhauser

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Yes it is. Although the thickness of the book might look scary, I have read it in a couple of days, just like Musashi. Very good books.

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Nice. I really enjoyed Musashi too and have read it a number of times.  Although, rather slower  :happy:

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On 3/17/2019 at 4:48 PM, Feathered_IV said:

Back on the FE.2b again.

 

Assembled the nacelle and glued it together for good, prior to detailing the outside.  Also made a start on the Trafford-Jones undercarriage.  These bits are made from 0.40mm nickel silver tube with a brass sleeve around each piece that has been flattened and filed to an aerofoil shape.  Stubs of 0.20mm rod fit into the ends of these to act as locating lugs later on.

 

I'll probably do A857 of 22 Squadron, a machine brought down (and strafed) behind German lines, by Werner Voss in June of 1917.  One of its peculiarities was that it had the upper portions of the streamlined fairings removed from the undercarriage and the shock absorber springs were visible.  To do this I annealed some 0.10mm wire and wrapped it around some .4mm tube.  After that I gently teased it out to look like a spring and cut the pieces to length.

 

5t20gWS.jpg

 

Then soldered them up.

 

JnBvNUr.jpg

 

There's still six more u/c struts to make.  Once they are done and a confirmed fit I can start doing the rest of the airframe.  I definitely don’t want to be overhandling the thing trying to get the undercarriage to fit later on.

 

 

 

Wait did you solder those struts to the axle? I like to describe your style of modelling as masochistic in that scale. 

 

Excellent work though

 

 

 

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It's not that bad.  Like everything there's advantages and disadvantages.  As long as you have good magnification and an accurate way of measuring things its fine.

I did a set of four Lichtenstein radar arrays in 1/144 a couple of years ago.  That was like giving an ant a vasectomy in comparison to this. 

 

Got the engine bearers on this evening after much tinkering about.  Dropped the pieces half a hundred times before I managed to get them into place.  Was delighted though to find my earlier measurements were good and the Beardmore sat at just the right height.  Need to make a tiny half-round cutout in the back of the nacelle to accept the prop shaft and allow the engine to slide back about .8mm, but it's looking pretty good for fit.

 

ytCqWSj.jpg

 

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Who makes decent 1/144 scale kits?

It's the one scale I haven't tried (I'm not going anywhere near 1/16), but I'd like to have a crack at 1/144 aircraft.

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Posted (edited)

The kits produced by Sweet are the best. Most particularly the A5M, A6M, Hurricane, Wildcat and P-51B.  Platz are another Japanese company who do an exceptional job on their P-51D, Fw-190D, P-47s and Hellcats.  They have the advantage of coming two to a box as well, so they represent rather good value. 

 

Have a look on eBay too for short-run “gashapon” kits by the Japanese company F-toys.  Their range is vast and they can be stripped down and rebuilt into excellent models 

 

I dont recommend the kits by Minicraft or Revell. Many of the moulds were originally made by Crown and Mitsuwa almost 50 years ago. I would steer clear of Mark I as well, as they are very lumpy short-run affairs which are very overpriced for what they are.  

Edited by Feathered_IV

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Cool thanks, I had a look for the Sweet stuff on hobbylink japan and did find some but i was looking for more modern stuff. Whats the trumpeter stuff like in 1/144 anygood? i was eyeing off a Tu-95.

 

I made many a revell/monogram kit back when i was a kid and thought their detail was pretty basic, i see they still produce stuff that looks worse then toy quality. Weird given that its  German company, you'd think those guys would be anal retentive on details. Generally I make 1/35th armour with the new Takom Bergepanther being one on the go at the moment, but bought a few Tamiya 1/32 scale kits lately and they are fantastic. recently I've been getting the 1/72 Bandai Star Wars kits, given that they are snap togehter they are insane engineering and go together seemless with better detail then Finemolds. 

 

 

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Trumpeter is okay.  A little heavy on the detail but the Tu-95 should be alright.  

 

 

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More Fe2b spam.  Finally got the main details for the outer nacelle done.  These are a combination of scribing and embossing for the panel lines and fasteners.  Then masking and spraying raised strips to represent the areas of stitching.  A series of dabs with the edge of a needle gives them a bit of texture.

 

lWvfas9.jpg

 

C1ELPFA.jpg

 

uFo66om.jpg

 

That's a major obstacle out of the way.  Now I need to figure out what to do next.  :unsure:

 

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That would be rather fitting!  I'm pretty determined to work a bit of 18ct yellow gold in there somewhere.  Maybe as a stand-in for the brass filler caps and perhaps as the  control column too if I can draw the stuff down fine enough.  :happy:

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17 minutes ago, Feathered_IV said:

On second thoughts it makes quite a good gun-rack. 

 

 

C34758E8-08EB-4ECC-BC63-2585555400F2.jpeg

 

YOU - ARE - CRAZY!!!

 

Wow, what a craftsmanship - no wonder you're a silver- and goldsmith. Absolutely stunning, mate!

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feather is deceiving us he is not human he is a gnome with tiny hands seven times stronger than ours

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Or maybe it's a match stick model blown up to look like he makes small stuff. Excellent detail on the match stick and finger on the previous photos, top notch

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Aw man.  If I had a dollar for every giant matchstick comment...    :acute: 

 

Not sure what all you northern hemisphere types are doing right now, now that spring has arrived.  But presumably you are all doing it outdoors.

Never mind.  I shall try to keep the miniature flag flying.

 

I'm still hewing at the Lewises... (that was terrible, I'm sorry).

I made the two ammunition drums by turning a piece of styrene rod in a flexi-drill and using a scalpel blade as a sort of tiny 3rd world lathe cutter. I somehow imagined I could score the radial lines in the drums using an elaborate jig, but it wasn't to be. I did a test one, but though I could stare at it until my eyes began to bleed; I was buggered if I could see them.

I contented myself with doing the inside ring on the ammunition drum, and this looks quite nice. Better than a plain flat top at any rate.

The thought of airbrushing them was terrifying. I could just see myself launching them into oblivion with the first puff of air, so I decided to brush paint them instead. I don't want to cover them in a solid coat of paint, as they will probably loose something of their crispness so I gave them a wash of very dark grey Mr Color lacquer that had been thinned all to heck with a generous amount of retarder.

Results are below. This will be the initial coat, and I will do one or two more with a wash of lamp black artist oils. Probably once they are attached to the aircraft. I hopefully will give them a slight sheen and still allow the raised edges to show though.

 

00AAJeD.jpg?1

 

Also managed to get those dopey looking ears that control the airflow to the radiator stuck on. It is a relief to get those out of the way at last, as I think they were the most difficult part of the build so far. The number of hours spent was out of all proportion to their size. I also made good on my earlier error, and added the missing rib to the tailplane too. Then brush-painted some scrap decal with dark grey and masked it up to make some stripey stock to later represent the narrow walkways on the inside of each lower wing.

 

4GJYHO7.jpg?1

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Hope everyone had a pleasant Easter break.

 

Can't quite believe I've got this far, but I was able spray the undersides and mask & paint each rib tape.

 

zOyhXSr.jpg?1

 

Now the tricky bit.  I've painted the upper surfaces in XF-62, which is what Wingnut Wings recommends for their 1/32 scale models.

I lightened it, but it still looks very dark to me for what I imagine of a typical PC10 finish.   So here's the question...  should I lighten it?  I have the opportunity to do so later this week and I don't want to skimp on effort after coming so far.  Would a generic PC10 finish look a couple of shades lighter to you?  :unsure:

 

gBT52Ou.jpg?1

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Difficult to tell from a photo, but I think it looks ok. It was fairly sooty stuff.

I think much paler would look odd.

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Hmm, from what I read on various model forums, the same colour, when compared, looks lighter on 32 scale and darker on f.e. 72 scale. Maybe that is why it looks too dark to You.

Not sure how to exactly translate into english the method used to compensate this. Scale lightning?

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How about this?  I've resprayed with a lighter XF-62/red-brown mix and lightened the colour of the ribs slightly.  The overall colour seems less saturated and light enough for weathering and shading to be visible. I just hope it isn't too brown.  Or too green.  Or something...

 

hnUoeRg.jpg?1

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Sweet!  Being colour blind is a bastard sometimes.  Glad I got it looking better at last.  Masking the ribs takes ages.  Need to do some oil washes on the timber struts next.  Then it's assembly time. 

 

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Hello , ive been busy .. a lot of hours have gone into this so far and it it can be a bit complex and confusing at times due to the instructions, but saying that the fit on this is pretty good.so......... 201 Parts later.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Looking good there Bug.

Final parts to the E Type........Got no excuses....Better finish it I suppose.

Dscf2125.jpg

Dscf2126.jpg

 

Dscf2127.jpg

Edited by voncrapenhauser

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That is looking good, Buglord. It looks like a fiddly beast.

Have you been resting on your laurels, voncrapenhauser?💤💣💥

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Nice work Buglord.  I almost took it for a Sci-fi project until I saw the frame!

That's an impressive hoard there too VC.  Looking forward to seeing more  :)

 

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Just got the new Fokker. Looks mighty fantastic in the box. The lozenge will be a pain in the ass to apply.

IMG_0670.JPG

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I saw the sprues earlier today.  It definitely looks good.  Might want to bump that one up to the top of your to-do list!

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To be honest I am considering postponing the CAMS 37 build. But not for the Fokker, I got something way more unusual :) 

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Go on then!

By the way, if you want, I'll let you have the instructions from my Revell one so you can see how to paint the lozenge.... Hermann Goering's was the obvious choice.

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Thought some of you modellers might be interested in this. Electric toothbrush sander,

 41863889_1035694679944858_24521680438626

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27 minutes ago, sallee said:

Go on then!

By the way, if you want, I'll let you have the instructions from my Revell one so you can see how to paint the lozenge.... Hermann Goering's was the obvious choice.

 

Thanks sallee, but no need. But still it is going to be a pain in the ass due to all the separate rib- decals.

loze00.JPG

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Those rib tapes do look skinny! I'm sure it will come out splendid!

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Here you go sallee.  I’ve been working down in the props department.  ;)

 

I’ll give it few days for the oils to dry then see about putting on a gloss coat and some hub detail.   This one is carved from styrene strip. No “giant” matchsticks were harmed!

 

703B67AC-EAAF-4F07-A7B5-84D1DDCE71A8.jpeg

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Boom boom!

That looks amazing. Carved from styrene strip...of course...as you do.

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One word.... un-f***ing- believable...

Such precision and cleanliness.

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