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Player-15685

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About Player-15685

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    Yokohama. Japan

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  1. Alright there now lads, back on topic now. We're talking badges here now, don't forget! Cheers, McBoat
  2. A tip of my hat to you sir! Quite so. What a modern age we live in.
  3. Yes it's a little convoluted if you're looking to get perfect settings for using the hatswitch but the default saved views for most fighters are adequate to begin with. Press F9 key and select 'gradual quick view' to get going. What you need to start with are the settings in 'camera settings'. I've attached a picture of my 'gradual quick view' settings for you here: https://imgur.com/a/tdfvv This would be a good start. From there, use the insert, home, delete, end page up and down keys to customize the views for different planes and use the F10 key to save the appropriate view positions. I find the default views are all much too far zoomed in so I have all my views saved in the fully zoomed out position. Regards
  4. One thing to note about the T16000 is the stick itself is butter smooth for movement, but the twist axis is quite firm in it's resistance. Personal preference but For me this is great as it stops the plane from wallowing about inadvertently on the rudder axis when you are moving the stick around, and in general I think added stiffness on the rudder twist just makes it far more precise. I think real thought has been put into the design of this stick and ergonomics aside, the feel of control is just sensational.
  5. How long did your 2 t16k stick's rudder axes last without spiking may I ask? I just got one of these sticks and they are truly fantastic, but I'm wondering if that rudder axis will start to spike eventually and if the pot is easy to access and clean? Having said that though, the axis certainly doesn't feel fragile and the precision is so good, without deadzone, that it's hard to imagine it failing. Sokol1, do you have experience cleaning the rudder pot on this device? Regards
  6. I use hatswitch to look around and there are definitely a couple of tricks to setting it up in the settings with both zoom, speed, and saved positions. 'Gradual quick view' is the mode I use so when I press down on the switch it instantly looks to check 6, press right and it looks 90 degrees to the right wing, etc. For each plane you have to set up individually for best results unfortunately. Use the f10 key to set the saved positions for each plane so you can check 6 properly and avoid obstructions. You do this by changing pilot head position left right forward and backwards to avoid the strut bars obstructing certain view positions. That way when you look behind you can actually see behind and not just your seat or canopy strut, for example. I can post settings later when I get on the PC but it would be best to find a time on TS to explain properly. Regards
  7. I know you can in quick mission if you come from underneath. Either set starting position from behind or shoot a plane down, when the next one respawns, come around underneath it from behind.
  8. Just wondering what your (and Riksen above) reasons for this are? I'm the same for the most part. The G2 is only 100kg heavier (2800kg vs 2900kg) and basically the same airframe. With a constant 1310hp (an almighty 1475 for 1 minute with G4) vs 1200hp F4 this weight difference is essentially negligible. For me personally the only drawback to flying G2/4 is the horrendous cockpit visibility from the more obstructive struts. I don't use track IR and I've heard this is much less a problem if using it. That's the reason I still go for F4 very often. Would be interested to hear your take on this. Regards McBoat
  9. Ok sokol1 thanks for that. I was just looking at the top of the ball joint that is readily visible and assumed something could be put directly down that top opening. Good to hear, sounds like it won't be necessary to add anything.
  10. Slipstream effects are already modelled in single player? Ok, that's fantastic- yet another surprise from this sim. Will have to try this out in SP!
  11. Would like to ask the thrustmaster t16k users out there- what exactly should we use to oil or regrease the ball joint? I can see that socket may need it some time in the future
  12. Hey gents, After 2 Logitech 3d pros crapping out with spiking in just a few months, I feel obliged to get word out there that the quality of these sticks from Logitech have gone down the drain. Had one of these sticks for a good few years before with no issues, as have many other users- however Logitech has now changed the circuit board and wiring inside to increase profits and the change has rendered these sticks pure rubbish now. I just got a thrustmaster T-16000m and what can I say- I can't believe how much more you get for just playing a fraction more. No deadzone, scalpel precision and excellent feel. The level of control from the magnetic sensors and no deadzone is just night and day, and controlling the airplane is immediately so much easier- just make sure to set your deadzones on all axes to zero. I almost couldn't believe it myself, no deadzones whatsoever. A real pleasure. Logitech will have you spiking all over the place with almost uncontrollable rudder and massive deadzone- I don't know how I put up with it, looking back. Pure junk the new Logitech 3D sticks; I had it apart several dozen times to clean the potentiometers and make adjustments but the problems keep coming back and getting ever worse, it's not worth the headaches. Thrustmaster t-16000m, best low price stick ever. 4900JPY for the Logitech, 5900JPY for the Thrustmaster. Regards, McBoat
  13. Absolutely fantastic! Thanks for sharing bud.
  14. What a load of codswallop. Come on berloga my friend- I'd love to see you getting eviscerated (or butchered if you rather?).
  15. Ridiculous. Can't tell whether you're taking the piss here or not? Grown men wanting badges? Beggars belief.
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