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About Scott_Steiner

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    Wisconsin, USA

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  1. I do both flight sims and race sims, I would say that racing sims or racing 'games' depending on your opinion have less barrier to entry these days and probably a little bit more support. While both flight sims and racing sims were easier 25 years ago, something like DCS is pretty impossible to pick up on the fly, Il-2 now with all the systems modeled is a lot harder as well. Actually driving and controlling a car in a simulator is harder than before but you don't have to worry about fiddling with your trim and mixture in a car, while a new sim racer may have low skill and be challenged to keep the car on the track, he or she is likely not to be confused on how to even get the car going and driving correctly, unlike a similar. There are many people in the flight sim community that swear by a good force feedback stick, be it a MSFF or the more polarizing Logitech G940. At the end of the day, it's just not as necessary in a flight sim as a driving sim to get by. At the end of the day though, there are still plenty of options for flight sim controllers, although the technology and products change or get revamped at a noticeably slower rate than sim racing hardware.. As long as you got a good setup, you shouldn't be let down or bored with it for a number of years.
  2. I have a 38" 3840x1600 Ultrawide monitor. I have to zoom out the default view considerably to get a correct looking FOV for play. I can tell you that Alternate Visibility is completely broken on such a setup, which many others have pointed out as well. This is not an "option" that scales correctly to each monitor, resolution or Field of View setting, it only works "correctly" in certain conditions. So for those who think getting a larger, more expensive monitor is Pay to Win™️ and not fair for everyone else, just keep in mind that there are players that will not have the ability to even use the advantage of the alternate visibility setting if it is enabled on a server, unlike you. So in theory either you will agree that it needs a different implementation so it works properly for everyone, regardless of their hardware, or you believe it should be a server option to turn on or off, to say otherwise is hypocritical.
  3. What I like to do, is buy the 2nd card a couple years later when they are really cheap, for a low cost boost in performance.. It essentially makes it $400 cheaper to have the same performance as a new single card (if the games you play actually support it).. but yes, I would never buy two new cards at once, there isn't a cost benefit ratio with that.
  4. Hi Norz, I will be the first to admit that I have made an error.. While I can get Crossfire running, it has a tendency of showing weird graphic anomalies and is not always smooth. I do not know if there has been an update in drivers or software that is the reason for this change, or if I indeed missed something previously.. but after testing it recently, I can no longer recommend using crossfire with IL-2, it currently is not a worthwhile experience.
  5. I would recommend getting an open-back headset or pair of headphones if you aren't going to be using them in an area where you need to be super quiet, open-backs are superior to closed-back headphones for sound quality.
  6. Yes, a good computer is a lot cheaper now and also, lasts a lot longer.. As you are well aware of by trying to extend the life out of your Gateway. All a good thing for consumers like us.
  7. I would find anyone in your neighborhood that has a half decent gaming card and by them dinner for letting you swap it into your system. I once had an Nvidia card that ran like crap in almost every game, it was most definitely faulty. Even if your card isn't faulty it could be a driver or software related problem to that specific card, so even if you can put in a graphics card that isn't as good as a 1080 on paper, it might really help isolate what the problem is. Also, you could reinstall Windows on to one of your extra hard drives and with that fresh install, see if that fixes the problem.. If it doesn't, you can just plug your original hard drive back in so you don't really lose anything and it's not a big hassle.
  8. Pretty sure that micro-stutters are when textures and other graphical information are loading into VRAM or possibly items loading into conventional memory. I think you are barking up the wrong tree by looking at CPU optimization.
  9. Yeah the above posters give good advise.. I will add the question, you aren't planning on upgrading your monitor anytime soon? If you intend to run 1080p @ 60hz, you don't really need all that much. I would recommend getting a card that has some headroom above 60 fps (like a 1050 or 1060), as it's not necessarily nice playing right at your monitors refresh rate, especially as low as 60hz.. But on the flip side, if you get a 1080 ti or better.. you are probably wasting your money as that monitor doesn't need anything that good. Your CPU should be fine with any graphics card for most all games.. Though I would consider maybe bumping up to 16gb of ram sometime in the future.. It isn't necessarily a pressing upgrade though.
  10. Okay, I thought you had a Core 2 Duo or equivalent Pentium! Even though it is pretty old, a first gen Intel I series with a quad-core is a massive step up over a Core 2 Duo.. I say yeah, upgrade the card and see how it runs, you can always upgrade the rest of the computer afterwards if it isn't panning out.
  11. I dunno if I would put any more money into that rig, it's going to fall short in the other areas too, like the old dual-core pentium processor. I would consider trying to find a 2nd gen Intel I series with a quad-core cpu in it, like the 2400 i5 cpu.. Would be a very good bang for the buck pared with a new graphics card. You could also see if your Dell will take a Core 2 Extreme processor, I don't know if the motherboard will like it, but that would be a cheap upgrade.. Still not a great one though and might not really be worth the time putting new parts in a 10 year old computer. As an example, something like this would be light years ahead of your current system and relatively close to the newer machines.. Still very capable of running IL-2 and not much more than $100, just add a small hard drive and use the Windows COA on the side.. Just a thought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-ThinkCentre-M91p-Intel-Quad-Core-I5-2400-3-1-GHZ-8GB-RAM-NO-HDD/273068352011?hash=item3f9424620b:g:6nAAAOSwjXRXaEzP:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!53719!US!-1 Best of luck!
  12. Not running 4K but an ultrawide with a resolution of 3840x1600, so probably the next thing closest to 4k. I picked up a second R9 Fury (Bought my original one 3 and a half years ago I think) off of ebay for $110 and now run them in crossfire. Max settings at that resolution usually yields somewhere around 90-100 fps.. So IL-2 is handling the crossfire setup really well.. I would guess a similar nvidia based SLI setup would work really well too and may be a way to get the performance you want at a cheap cost. Do I recommend dual gpu solutions? No not really.. a lot of games do not run properly with 2 cards, they have a large power draw, require a good PSU and can be VERY finicky.. But if you already have one card that is somewhat adequate, adding the same card from the used market a few years later might be a cheap and very cost effective solution instead of spending $800 on a new card.
  13. I also have one of those Saitek throttle quadrants, it came with a few different levers, I think the default Cessna looking stuff and then some black handles that would look more at home in a jumbo jet.. Point being that they are interchangeable, so you would have to see what the base of those handles look like and try to make those accurate in a 3d printing program with the new knobs, easy enough to pop on some custom ones if they were done well.
  14. I think the high bandwith memory is very underrated and not many understand it properly. For one thing, I believe it greatly decreases stuttering and micro-stuttering.
  15. That's not a direct comparison, because an analog headset is only part of the equation where a USB headset is an all-encompassing solution. With a USB headset you are taking a digital source and sending it out to the sound device which is USB, which is also digital.. and then the analog conversion is done in the USB sound device to the headset (to your ears). There is nothing to interfere with, really nothing to go wrong.. You would refer to USB headsets as being digital even though the output to the speakers in the ear cups are not, but the term digital is a good enough general term for such devices. Analog headphones that have a 1/4 or 1/8 inch jack are only a small part of the sound system in a gaming setup. You are taking digital audio (from the game) running it through the sound card, converting it to an analog signal and then sending it to that microphone jack on the back where the headphones are picking up that analog signal. Also, the sound card will be amplifying the signal from the source and driving the headphones. Sound cards that have poor amplification, headphone or speaker amps that are poor, or expensive headphones that require a powerful amp, can all sound very poor if not driven properly. Also, some sound cards or devices may give interference and noise on an analog connection for a number of reasons, usually some of the poorer quality or older sound cards or onboard sound will do this. It sounds like you need to do some more studying.. but I will say that all the best headphones will be analog and not USB, as all the best headphones out there are not specifically designed for gaming over USB devices. Sure there are some adequate USB gaming headsets that many will find to sound pretty good but I don't think any will be comparable to a high quality set of headphones.. and probably most of the better gaming headphones that have an analog connection are based off of mid-range or better music type headphones (mostly talking about Sennheiser here). If it's worth spending the extra coin on hearing a bunch of bullets and engine noises... Well that's up to you.
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