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About Plank

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    The cruddy weather, constant shelling and the rats. It's enough to make you pack it all in and go home.
    Apparently we get oil tomorrow and then probably a few props later. We might be able to make one good plane out of the shabby collection that we have be provided with. Then we might be able to go up, of course we would need petrol for this....

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  1. Good call! We are all individuals! And in style! the 70's ! Where field target shooting required you to wear a suit! S! P.
  2. Dear Raaaid. I selected the confused* "reaction" as it has one eye bigger than the other. : - ) *( Up graded to "like" as "confused" may seem like a negative reaction ) Why not use the left hand on the trigger? Left shoulder with right hand grip sounds, awkward. But it's how well you shoot and if it works for you. Glad to see you are following my thread! Yey! Salute! Planky. ( Your Kiwi friend far far far away...) PS My left eye is dominant too, but I shoot right handed to "fit in". Maybe I will try left handed??? "Fit out" I say!
  3. Here is the trigger group from the F.E.G. ( you may want to look away ). I started to dress this up a bit, the before pics are a bit naff. Needless to say this is a rough as old guts set up. And some holes what I made at 6m. Please bear in mind that I am standing, no rest, the trigger is heavy and wobbly and I tend to wobble about .... ( I am ok with the results so far ). The fliers are interesting, I think it's to do with the breech and how far in the pellets are seated. Seem to be lose, then friction, then then way less friction and you can feel them slide in the bore.... so yeah, heck. The three central vertical targets are todays ( after polishing the trigger and sear). Others are yesterdays and not all mine. : - ) Have gotten into a quick pace, trying to get pellets on paper PDQ, and it seems to work. ( For some reason... less time to wobble maybe...) S! P.
  4. Hello! Nice pic! Go for 75m and don't worry about feeling odd. : - ) Or maybe there is an air range closer? ( Might not be 75m though...) Hmm... You can see why this design is heavy at the sharp end, and the plastic stock GAMO will be worse as the stock comb is a void. Here is a list of things to DIY when I am feeling adventurous: 1) Chop off the barrel end and apply a real hecking barrel crown ( will have to pay to get that done ) . 2) Lose the fixed charging lever and make a separate carry one that is not fixed. 3) Balance the rifle. I have access to some land about 12k out of town so I might pedal out there on my bicycle to get some exercise and bag the bunnies. I have panniers etc to carry gear in. Failing that, I can drive my car but I kind of like the bicycle and air gun combo. Both are human powered! S! Planky.
  5. This is a classic design, if I am correct It is a BSA one. ( Need to do some more digging. ) In theory the Gamo should be ok, with some work I am sure it will be fine for what I have in mind. ( Deleting small furry creatures ) If I can get 20mm groups at 50m then I am totally satisfied. ( the scope is the key...) Will post pics when I begin the process of "fixing up" the GAMO. ( maybe it will not be so crap???) Operations will include deburing metal work, polishing internals, fixing the trigger group and finally balancing the weight distribution ( probably will have to add ballast to the stock heel area....) Hopefully the example I get has not been fiddled with and is stock. Probably won't bother trying to make it more powerful. 20 joules will be fine and less LOUD! ( unless I can design and build a sound moderator... maybe. ) S! Planky.
  6. Hello Nil! Well heck, I just bought a Gamo CF-S ( see CF-X ) Under lever for $180. and it looks just like the HW77 but obviously much much much cheaper. : - 0 ( But I bought the CF-S to work on and make better. ) S! Planky.
  7. Chaps. Off the subject of WW1 fighters etc I have gone a bit left of field and taken up shooting. ( Again ) Bought a Hungarian .177" Super Telly ( F.E.G ) for a "hundy". Pulled it apart, got the low down on the mechanism, fixed up the seals and a few more things. most obvious is the "scope rail". It's a prototype. Works fine, yes really. Essentially adding a scope to the mainspring tube is just plain bad engineering. Fixing the scope directly to the barrel is a much better solution. ( Accuracy is primary mover, trigger is second, power is third.. imho ) Have a 6m range set up in the garage and am shooting at 5mm dots. Will organise the garage to accommodate a 10m range and a nice bench to sit the pellet tin. AND also a solid bench to vice the gun for testing. ( So far I have done none and am shooting standing up with no rest.) Not shot for almost a decade and getting back into the swing of things. ( More like the wobble...) Pictures: The 17mm square tube is bound and glued on. It's reasonably well fixed for testing purposes. Scope rings clamp on with a very good grip. Loading requires a procedure ( nothing too silly ) Testing pellet insertion depth in breech. So far I can change vertical POI just by pushing the pellet into the rifling. ( It seats in the lands and is free to slide fwd other wise the pellet binds slightly as it feeds into the barrel proper, bad reaming ?) Having a jolly old time, wish you were here. Love, Plank. xxx PS. Dear Thor, this seemed like the best way to show you the unit, have got blue for the metal and will sand and oil the woodwork. S! PPS. Yes it's a TASCO scope made for "firearm" and will probably rattle to bits with the JOLT from the main spring piston bashing about, but the jolt so far is quite tame, however after a tin of pellets ... who knows. Made in U.S.A. so will probably deal with it. ; - )
  8. If a bisected frog plays football without a clean toilet will it have a non fatal parachuting injury to tell you about ? This will bug me all afternoon... S! P.
  9. Plank

    Fix the RoF.exe bug.

    Well it's running a "shell" on DOS 6.22 it's really new. Cost a packet. You should see the thing go, it's unreal. 16 Mhz ! Blistering. S! P.
  10. Definitely will have more impact if you jump out of a plane at altitude ( off the actual ground...) wearing a day pack full of socks and/or pianos. Just saying... S! P.
  11. Out of all the things that need to be fixed in RoF ... Fix this. The game is still for sale, so just think about that. Really getting tired of this bug crashing the game every second or third respawn. S! P. PS. I am pretty happy flying in RoF and consider it money well spent. However this bug [edited] needs looking at. Thanks. xxx
  12. Hello arty! So you are saying that you have measured the deadzone and it's about +/- 3 deg on a Logitech 3d Pro ? And it's pretty much a dead flat dead zone... sigh. Salute! Planky.
  13. Hello. Sleek fighter jets with all the modcons are not my cup of tea! Yes there is a bump. It's a deadzone created in the firmware of the MCU what I use. and it's very vexing. VERY. So when the xmas fury subsides I will probably order a Leo B MCU and bite the bullet. OR try some Atmel based prototype board thingy. ( they are all the rage I hear...) Been working on my sniping in RoF and the bump is quite pronounced when looking at plane at 300 m or so. Sometimes further... heh. Still on the fence about the whole FC thing. Hecking... Salute! Plank.
  14. Dear Arty Post a pic of your sticks MCU board. Maybe we can find the potentiometers wires and save you the hassle of pulling your grip apart.... Exactly what model of thrusmaster do you have ? Patent trolls are evil!!! Salute Plank.
  15. What Thrustmaster stick do you have ??? You should have three wires: +Volts Voltage out Ground. Using a meter you should be able to sort out which wire is what. DC volts, what ever range is just over 5 volts. Between GND and V out you should be able to see the V change with control waggling. ( centre is about 3.5 V or close enough. ) I would cut the wire and couple with male female three pin coupler. then unplug the twist stick and plug in the ruder bar. "header" pins and sockets make great mini plugs. :- ) Good luck! Salute! Planky.