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About NakedSquirrel

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  1. Has anyone come up with a voice attack profile for Tank Crew? I have not made one yet because I'm fairly new to voice attack, and I need to mess around with the menu a bit more first.
  2. I want to call it Steve... Steve It's a pretty name https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiGFRLCC-Ao
  3. This was brought up in one of Jason's last Q/A sessions. To paraphrase, he basically said that they would love to make the D.IIIau variant, but it would take a considerable investment of labor from @AnPetrovich , who is one of the few (if not only) programmer who works on flight models. He also has a lot of other tasks besides just the aircraft FMs of FC and BoX. Additionally, they would have to set aside man hours to update the 3D models for each aircraft. It would make sense for the Pfalz to have its sea level speed bumped to 181kph with the D.IIIau variant, since the Halberstadt in RoF bumps from 165kph to 174kph from the upgrade (at sea level). It also made sense in RoF pre patch for the Camel to fly around 190kph at sea level when the Sopwith Tripe was flying 185kph, and the Hanriot at 184kph (roughly). The tripe is heavier and has more wings and cables, and the Hanriot has a slightly weaker 120hp Le Rohne engine. Is it 100% accurate to real life? Until we get a time machine , who knows! But the FMs of FC mostly make sense relative to each other. Maybe one day we'll see some additional variants and aircraft, but it isn't planned. Hopefully FC is a success and we see more content in the future, because I really enjoy this era of aircraft, and how they fly in this game.
  4. Great question. Why would anyone want to fly a plane that goes 220kph+. The Se5a and SPAD only climb faster, fly faster, and dive faster, but I can't really think of any advantages they have over the Camel.... I think it will forever remain a mystery. The best tactic for Central is to fly at higher altitudes. The BMW and Mercedes engines perform much better at altitude. At 3000m+ you reduce the Sopwith Camel's 20kph advantage to a 10kph advantage with the Pfalz/Alb, and a 10kph difference is pretty negligible if you keep your energy.
  5. This is likely the case. I suspect some test data lists tests for the Mercedes D.III (160psi) as D.IIIa (170psi) because you can’t really tell the difference between the two externally. Gav made a few posts on this subject with sources. https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/35592-you-asked-proof-albatros-dva/ I wish I could find the post by (I think it was Panther) which had a source that went into detail about the different Mercedes engines and their improvements, but I haven’t been able to find it. The Albatross and Pfalz (pre 1.034 patch) fit well against allied 1916-1917 aircraft, but it seems unlikely that the only improvement over the 1916 Albatross DII to the 1918 Albatross DIIIa is a net gain of 6kph at sea level, or the difference of only 5kph between the 100kg+ heavier Halberstadt CLIIa and the Albatross DIIIa as It was in RoF. It it is good to see that these aircraft are being looked at and improved. I hope the Mercedes aircraft get some attention.
  6. Yes, the screen door effect is much more evident, but it doesn't bother me. The added clarity and the ability to focus on things at the edge of the screen makes the slight eyesore of the screen door meaningless. The difference is night and day before and after the lens mod I didn't think the Vive Pro had that much better of a resolution. It is nice to hear it is nice and clear for you.
  7. I recently tried replacing my Vive lenses with the Samsung Gear VR lenses and the result is incredible! The Samsung Gear VR lenses are clear glass lenses as opposed to the Vive's Frensel lens. So replacing the default Vive lense with these gives you a clearer image, it's easier to focus on objects in your periphery, and god rays are very much reduced. The Gear VR only cost me 15-20$ (You can find them on amazon or ebay for very cheap prices), and I went to a local library to 3d print the lens adapters which cost me less than 2$. Basically you need to 3d print an adapter for the lenses, pop them in, and do a little bit of modification to your config file to reduce 'barrel distortion.' The end result is well worth it. My only caution is be VERY careful when you pop out the original Vive lenses. I nearly hit the screen with my screwdriver when I was prying them out. You also have to be very careful not to scratch or get any dust on the screens behind the lenses, because even the smallest scratch or spec of dust is very noticeable when you have the headset on. It's a little risky (considering the price of the headset), but I highly recommend making this upgrade if you are a hands on person. It completely changes the headset and makes the image much more crisp. There is still a little bit of screen door effect, but it's not that much of a bother. The new lenses make a huge difference! Here's the reddit post for anyone interested. Just be very careful if you do try to install the mod. Be slow. Be patient. I find the work was absolutely worth the effort!
  8. RoF used to have more accurate gunnery way back when. I feel the patch that increased dispersion helped gameplay. Im not sure if increased dispersion is more or less “realistic.” I wish I could find the old clip of a Nieuport zeroing its gun. The target wasn’t very far away and there was still a sizable spread of bullet holes on the paper target. It is likely a mix of recoil, the Lewis mount, and how well the plane was held down. To think these MGs are as accurate on an open cockpit fabric and wood plane as they are on a tripod mount for infantry seems unlikely. Still... Its still very early access so a lot is bound to change. RoF changed quite a bit over the years I look forward to see FC develop and mature. WW1 has a lot to gain from the upgraded game engine.
  9. As Macross said, it's hard to notice any difference with 256 steps. The only difference I noticed between the TM Warthog (which has hall sensors) and my CH Fighterstick was the deadzone. The CH stick has a mechanical dead-zone, which you can eliminate by opening up the stick and doing a little bit of jerry-rigging. Still, for a joystick the T16000 is a really good choice. It is only 50-60$. It's ambidextrous, and it has amazing hall sensors. You can buy it with a throttle for 100, it looks to me like a great budget stick.
  10. I’d love to hear how people like the constellation it looks like a neat grip.
  11. I agree hal type sensors are better. But after 8 years of regular use I still find my CH stick flawless. If you have spikey sensors out of the box you should be able to send it in for a replacement. I had a circuit board fail early on with one of my CH sticks and they immediately sent a replacement. TM was a little more difficult to get parts from but they do work with you. CH is a backup for me at this point as I moved on to a TM Warthog (which broke) and then VIRPIL base with TM grip. I was able to fix the TM stick but Virpil had a sale so I went for it. Virpil is very expensive but also worth the money 🙂 Regardless I find the CH sensors to be smooth. They don’t wear out like my Logitech and Saitek sticks did. I really don’t notice any jitter. Compared to the TM Warthog I don’t find much difference in accuracy if any. I just liked the feel of the Warthog, which was the main reason I bought it. I agree that the Hal sensors will outlast the traditional pot sensor, but I don’t know how the stick itself would hold up. I have read about the buttons failing on the T16000. I’m not knocking the T16000. It looks like a really good stick for the price. I probably would have bought one if it were available to me at the time. I just don’t have any experience with the T16000. I do have experience with CH and really like their pedals and stick. I have no regrets buying a 100 dollar product that works good as new after 8+ years 😋.
  12. Thanks I will try that. When you say fixed by an in-game update does the game read the HMD's IPD, or does it read the mod's IPD setting properly now?... or both?
  13. Just don't get behind Capt Darling and you'll be ok :)
  14. CH Fighterstick is also a very good joystick. (But it does not have twist, you would need rudder pedals) CH products last a very long time, have great sensors, and are made of sturdy material. My equipment is well over 8 years old and the sensors are still smooth. They also have great customer service. They are helpful on the forums answering questions. I recently broke a couple of pieces on my throttle quadrant and when I asked how much it would be to replace, they replied by saying they already sent the replacement parts. Pretty neat! In my experience, the sensors on Saitek and Logitec joysticks degrad quickly, but you could try buying contact cleaner. Open up the joystick and spray the pots, you might be able to get some more life out of them. Make sure the cleaner is safe for electronics (don't use generic WD-40 as I beleive it leaves a teflon residue). But you should be able to find a can for around 5$
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