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About [CPT]milopugdog

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    Auburn, WA
  • Interests
    Seaplanes, Basalt, Bonsai

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  1. All the people I know with classic cars throw out the drum brakes for disc, unless they're one of those weird people who are trying to keep the car as stock as possible. There are kits for it, you can do it in your driveway. Saying that 'youngsters' now can't drive cars like that is just downright silly, honestly, because judging by how many of them wound up in the junk yard, neither could 'youngsters' when they were new. But alas, most folks my age don't want those rusty pieces of crap anyways; they've moved onto the GTR and other imports because they aren't the same price as my damned college education. Ah yes, similar looking modern cars. There's in inside joke in my friend group; one of my friends has a Hyundai Elantra, and it is such a general looking car, that we purposefully get the name wrong whenever we talk about it. We usually go by calling it a Honda Civic, Ford Fusion, Nissan Ultima, etc, etc...
  2. Aye, But I'm not talking just about classic mustangs (which you're right about the handling of old cars), but also the owners of newer Mustangs as well. It could have just been the people at car shows I've interacted with. Although, many of those folks were of the older type. Many of the VW guys are like me, just young and having fun with it. I'm sure if younger folks could afford a classic muscle car, they'd be fine too. And I'm sure driving at highway speeds will be fun with that little 1600 E-motor. Drivers near me already get mad when you're 5 over the speed limit.
  3. Howdy again everyone! Thanks for telling me about your cars; other people is actually one of the main reasons I'm so intent on fixing this car! I hail from a family of Ford Mustang people, and other folks in that community tend to be a little snobby, but classic VW people are usually pretty groovy I haven't been doing much with the car lately besides ordering parts because the weather and internship work, but on my free days I have worked on her! I removed the windshield using a technique found in this video: And now I'm sanding off the base coat of paint to its primer to cut costs when we go to have her media blasted. I currently have the whole roof of the car sanded, and part of the bonnet sanded down: When it comes to parts, I've been ordering everything from seals, headliners and it's various parts, gloveboxes, doorchecks, to the entire assembly for the car's deck lid and its accessories. So far I've probably spent about $1300? But hey, what do you expect when you have to rebuild the interior of a car, right? Its not much, but it's honest work. Until next time, Milo P.S. Here's some pictures from my internship work:
  4. It seems like there is a bit of interest, so I'll keep posting updates since I'm taking pictures to assist with putting everything back together anyway. So, another day means more parts removed! Unfortunately, the weather over here has gotten stormy so we had to roll her inside. However, while the weather was still nice, the decision was made that we would have the whole car's body media blasted instead of just the burnt portion. This will give us a nice clean surface to prime and paint on the inside and outside of the car. So that of course means removing anything we don't want to be sprayed. Which isn't much, but the doors, windshield, and bonnet are mostly in-tact. Here's the driver's door before I started on it: These doors are uniquely a pain in the ass. While there are very few bolts involved, the window needs to be unbolted to get it in a position where you can get its weather seals out. There SHOULD have been a felt guide for the door, but that's just one of the things that are mysteriously missing. Not that they'd be usable afterward anyway. However, after that a few bolts and screws come out, and you're able to pull the vent window out. Next there's a chrome molding that has to be removed which is held in with clips. Usually these are ruined by pulling the felt guide out, so they weren't there! So in both doors, it was easily removed. A close up of the window's seals. The left seal is held in with clips and can be pulled out with a flathead screwdriver once with window is lowered, but the seal on the left is attached to the silver molding and came out with it. Repeat these steps for both doors, and here's the result! A load of junk which will have to be cleaned, but hopefully reused. The upper pile is from the driver's door, while the bottom is from the passengers. In the end, I also ended up pulling the windows out since we would have to anyway eventually. But, here's the driver's door with all the window moldings and seals out. I'm just hoping putting it back together will be as simple. Until next time! Milo
  5. Haha I appreciate the advice. 😄 I'm working on it with my old man, who has been fixing cars his whole life. There's also a lot of folks out here that know the VW specific stuff though, because he mainly does cars domestic to the US.
  6. Howdy all! I'm proud to say that I've come into the possession of a rare Volkswaffe fighter, and have chosen to restore it! If you don't know about the Volkswaffe is, check out the documentary below: All jokes aside, I've come into possession of a 1974 Volkswagen Beetle and have started work on restoring it. My car is a part of a special edition called the Sunbug, which was just a package that included a sun roof top (not vinyl top, the hard top sunroof), a special gold paint color, some decals, and some unique interior parts. Unfortunately, the interior parts and decals are long down the road. Originally, it was a college graduation gift for my cousin. However, it suffered from a poor repair job, and the classic engine fire problem beetles run into. So the car was totaled, bought back from the insurance company, and thrown outside to sit for a long while. I ended up getting the car when my aunt and uncle decided to move from where they live here in Washington to Nevada, and they offered it to my dad and I for free. So we went to get the car, and we've made some slow progress up to now. Here is the most complete picture I have of the car: The first thing we did was remove the fenders to add ease of access to work on the body. Then we turned to the frame of the car, because it's floor pans were rusted in a few places, and had been patched by a cookie sheet in another. I don't have any pictures of the VERY fascinating progress of us cutting out, removing spot welds, making a clean surface to weld the new pans on, and welding them on, but here we are fitting the new pans in: While we had the frame in this position, we also completely replaced the steering and brake system. Luckily, the transaxle is completely fine, so we could leave it as is. In the mean time, we just left the fender-less body outside. After we welded the pans in, we attached the car's rebuilt pancake engine to the transaxle, and did a test fit with the frame on. The reason we did this was because the car has a shroud over the engine, and we just wanted to see what clearance we would have. Now that the weather is getting nicer, and I am done with school for a few months, I've been getting more into gear on getting the car into running. First what we will be needing to do is get the car's body ready to paint since we are returning it to it's factory color of Harvest Gold (paint code L89C). Work wise, this means prepping the inside. As you can see, I already removed the dashboard, but there is a lot of soot everywhere from the engine fire, so most of the work will be cleaning it off so we have a clean surface to spray primer on. You can see the factory color where the dash was, because it turns out my uncle was a lazy painter. In the rear of the car, there is a storage compartment with paper soundproofing, a vinyl floor mat, and a lot of silicone that had to be removed. Before I start to clean all the soot off of surfaces, I also had to remove some other things from the car, such as the steering column, wiring, and also weather seals that were in the doors. As mentioned, my next steps will to remove all the soot from surfaces we will be painting, removing parts we wont' want painted like door handles, and also listing parts that will need to be bought (like new weather seals, door limiters, a new steering wheel). If there is any interest, I can post more pictures as we move along to get the car in working condition! The current time frame to finish is September, but we'll have to see. Thanks for reading! Milo
  7. Raaaid, I know that you are beyond reasoning with, but; What you are talking about will not work. The reason why the battery circuit will conduct electricity is through the exchange of electrons, but eventually the copper and zinc will exchange enough to become neutral. Thus stopping the reaction. When you're talking about a zinc-carbon battery like we see with disposable batteries, they need manganese-oxide to work. You can't just throw the two into a salt water solution with a current and expect it to work, you're missing one of the main components.
  8. Pictures above: Raaaid attracting a cat that swallowed gold using quadratics
  9. Howdy! Due to limitations with how Valve runs their store, you will need to buy Stalingrad first if you want to use the Steam client. However, if you are buying Bodenplatte directly through the IL-2 website, it can be stand alone. If you buy Stalingrad through Steam, you also have the option to buy content on the IL-2 website and sync your accounts. After which, they will all appear under the same account no matter where they are purchased from.
  10. Even if they aren't able to make a completed; not bombed out Stalingrad, I would still love to at least see the buildings given up to date models. I think one of my favorite areas is this rail yard. I honestly can't tell you how much suffering I went through trying to make my way through here in RO2. PS: free cam is a thing, fellas. Nobody will judge you.
  11. I'll pipe in here, I love the U-2VS. It's legitimately one of the planes I've had the most fun in. It would be awesome if you could load cargo or medivac or whatever, but just using it to fulfill a ground attack role is amazing. I've had pilots in Bf-109s simply ignore me while attacking objectives; and because of its slow speed you see an uncatogorized level of accuracy. Even just the pure level of modifications for the aircraft is amazing. Don't want navigation lights, artificial horizon, or radio? Don't need them. Rockets, a forward firing gun, and bombs? You want it, you got it. A turret to defend yourself? Optional. It is an utter joy to fly characteristically, with my only problem being that you CAN'T carry every ordinance option at the same time or it won't take off. So that's enough from me, I'll leave you with some backing media, all from MP matches: And FYI: I do use timed fuzes on my bombs.
  12. This will make a fine addition to my collection. 👀 Half serious question; it's not mentioned, but y'all got any plans for a special pre-order skin for this one?
  13. I got an Iron Cross on the 1st sortie of my Bf-109 E-7 career; but I destroyed 3 aircraft and 4 ground targets.
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