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PossumHueCity1968

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  1. Wowza. That looks fantastic. Please do post links to Thingiverse. I would LOVE to make a 3D printed setup like that. Nice work.
  2. You can actually put the camera wherever you want--as long as the LED's are pointed straight at the camera lens (wherever you decide to place it) the tracking will happen. If you put the camera on the desk a couple feet in front of you and angle the 3 LED diodes down, and the camera lens angling upward, it will still be capturing the same relative motion.
  3. Hey, Kid--I posted to your other earlier PS3 Eyecam thread. I just went through all this stuff myself, so I understand why you're intimidated. Don't worry--you'll figure it out. First--did you download the 3rd party driver for your camera? It costs like two bucks--you'd remember if you did. LINK: https://codelaboratories.com/downloads/ If not--go get that driver. The driver comes with a program, CL Eye Test, so you can test the camera, and adjust the "exposure" of the image being output by the camera. You adjust the "exposure" with sliders. The sliders are found in the CL-Eye Test menu Options/Video Capture Filter. The link to the forum tutorial covers it step by step. Adjusting the sliders brings the IR dots into crispest, clearest contrast. Look at the settings in the forum tutorial link for adjusting Gain, Exposure, and White Balance. After you have set the sliders, close the Code Labratories driver--the camera is outputting the signal you need. First thing you need to do is calibrate the open track program. Open Opentrack--you're looking at the Pink Octopus and the phrase TRACKING NOT STARTED. First header reads: Input = Pointtracker 1. Click the hammer (tools) to the right. Set the PS3 camera specs to the numbers in the tutorial. (I use the BLUE/56 degree (zoomed) field of view). OK--now click the MODEL tab--and input the physical dimensions of your the DELAN clip's LED's. Go to the first page of Opentrack and click START. Now the program is tracking, you can see your LED's moving in the black box. OK--now back on the MODEL tab, just beneath where you input the physical dimensions of your Delan Clip, click START CALIBRATION--and move your head smoothly left and right six or ten times, then click STOP CALIBRATION. Now the program can figure out where the axis your head pivots on is located. Go to the Mapping tab, and set your graphs more or less to what has been recommended in the tutorial linked above. You'll want to tweak the axis translations and add dead zones to suit your preferences--the linked thread tutorial gives good models. OK--now Opentrack understands how your head moves, and how to translate that into "head" movement in the game. From the Opentrack toolbox with the pink Octopus, click on OPTIONS. See the tab labelled Game Detection. In the Executable box, type il-2.exe, and under Profile, use the default .ini file (which ought to be the calibration and mapping data you just input). So your headset is calibrated. Now you can open the game. The game ought to automatically recognize the stream of data Opentrack is providing. As you play for awhile you're probably going to need to tweak the Opentrack mapping a bit--I put in HUGE dead zones in the mapping graph so my head wasn't constantly moving all over the place, and to quickly re-zero my view I bound the Center command to a VERY accessible key on my joystick (click Options and the tab Shortcuts). You'll also develop preferences in wanting to sometimes "lock" your view so you can concentrate on your gunsights, make your shots, then "unlock" your view so you can look around and check your six. Anyhow--that ought to get you rolling. All the best. lol. I just missed your post and spent like an hour typing those instructions. lol. Glad to hear you got sorted. All the best.
  4. As I said above, jimmyjam--with a proper IR filter placed in front of the lens, my "Bad version" PS3 Eye isolates/identifies my Trackclip Pro diodes beautifully, no mods required. Model # (from the camera base) is SLEH-00448, serial number is C90 231*** Manufactured by Zastron for Sony. I used it last night, and there hasn't been a hitch. I followed the instructions in this fine thread to set it up: All the best.
  5. Thanks everyone for their input on monitor preferences--I appreciate it. I have some time yet to make my decision because scenery and spotting enemy fighters hasn't been much of an issue for me yet, as I keep thrashing sod and burning on takeoff (lol)--and my current monitor renders that beautifully. This is going to be so much fun fun when I'm successfully aloft at last, and finally get to be a helpless skeet pigeon for the experienced enemy pilots. All the best.
  6. I am under the impression that the later PS3 cams (with the flat front lens) had such a weak IR filter that removing it was unnecessary. My source for this was this video (scroll to 5:00 minutes): I acquired one and added a 720nm IR filter to the front of it and (after adjusting the software) was able to see the 3 clearly defined pinpoints of light in the software interface on a black background. Again--I haven't actually used it yet, but I was seeing the 3 clearly defined points of IR light without removing the filter. UPDATE 2/24/19: My "bad version" PS3 Eye Cam works 100% with ZERO modding and a 720NM IR filter attached in front of the lens. This is the make/model 720NM filter I used: https://www.amazon.com/ZoMei-25MM-Glass-Infrared-Filter/dp/B00XU8SCVS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1J1DFWA3PC7HA&keywords=25mm+ir+filter&qid=1550585495&s=gateway&sprefix=25mm+ir%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3 Note that the video recommends an 850NM IR filter (scroll 5:50 minutes). I actually tried to buy the 850 NM filter from Amazon at the link provided, and ordered in the 25mm size, but when it arrived the package specs said that it was a 725 NM filter: https://www.amazon.com/ZoMei-25MM-Glass-Infrared-Filter/dp/B00MHRVHLU/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=ZoMei+25MM+IR+850&qid=1550586984&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull I went the lazy route and bought a TrackClip Pro for $40 rather than making one.
  7. Thanks for the input--I will definitely consider that. I saw a thread here where a lot of guys are advocating for using big HDTV's, and they're real happy with them. You haven't found "lag"to be a problem with this particular (aviation sim) gaming application? I actually have access to a 40" Sony with HDMI inputs, maybe I should take it for a spin before committing to a high-end gaming monitor. Better this way, trying the lower rez first, because I get the sense that once you experience a super responsive high-end gaming monitor life never quite looks as good without it (lol). Thanks for the food for thought.
  8. OK--thanks for your clarifications. I appreciate it very much. My wallet is about to get absolutely Rekt, but it's all for a good cause.
  9. Greetings. I am building a modest gaming rig for the purpose of flying Cliffs of Dover and the Battle of Stalingrad. My CPU is an I7 3770. I have maxed out the RAM (DDR3), and sprung for an NVIDIA RTX 2060 graphics card. I don't have any experience with gaming, and have no idea what frame rates I can reasonably expect from this CPU/GPU--so I'm a bit lost in trying to choose a monitor. Anyone care to hazard a guess as to how much playable resolution I can hope to see with a 3770? When choosing a monitor, would I be wasting money on a 1440 144hz lcd monitor, given the limitations of my CPU? Should I stick with 1080p and 60 hz until I can save up for a better board/CPU? NVIDIA is now supporting Freesync, so I am inclined toward choosing a monitor with that feature, and I'm also leaning toward an IPS panel for the color rendering. Is there an optimal size? 27" seems to be pretty common, but I'd perhaps go bigger if I wasn't wasting my money. Thanks for any advice
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