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Todt_Von_Oben

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  1. Sure. In WWII era fighters you could easily fly yourself into a G-loc. At the speeds those things flew, you could also get going straight down so fast that you couldn't pull out, too. Relating that to WWI vintage planes in FC1: the un-augmented pilot is about the same for both wars; but the canvas kites are slower and more frail. Actually, your post has me looking into the G-loc feature as we've seen it lately in FC1. Personally, I have no problem with it; if the Devs want to make me black out at a certain point, that's okay. Just one more parameter in the sim for me to cope with. No problem. But I wonder how realistic it is. I've pulled G's mock-dogfighting in an 85 hp Luscombe but never felt like I was going to pass out. Not at those speeds and forces. So I'm wondering what those old birds were stressed for. Could I really knock myself out in a Dr.1 or Camel before the airframe broke? I don't know, but I'm wondering. If I had to guess, I think I could. But I'd like to see the numbers to be more certain. Looking...
  2. Chris, First of all, Great planes! Wow! Second, I'm refining the sim pod design and now it will include pitch mobility. Thanks again for the plans. Fake Spandaus are easy to make out of a 2 X 6 and a piece of ABS pipe. And you can bet my cowling (the end of a big waterpump pressure tank) will have Werner's Kite face, too. Thirdly, (and to the point) I'm studying the FC1 pilot blackout model and have some questions for you. 1. Do you know (or know where I can find the design specs stating) how many positive and negative G's the Dr.1 or F.1 could take? 2. May we know how many G's your plane's design is rated for? 3. What range of G's do you pull when flying aerobatically? I have a friend (Dave Gillespie in Canada) who has a Camel replica. He flies aerobatics at Oskosh in the Kristen Eagle and a vintage Tiger Moth. Dave says flying the (radial not rotary) Camel is a lot like flying the Tiger Moth. He takes it easy because the DeHaviland is vintage, of course. +4 and -1 G is the average range during one of Dave's exhibitions and he is nowhere near blacking out at any time. 4.How's it for you in the Dr.1? Ever get a little light-headed? Generally, a healthy pilot can withstand 7 to 9 negative Gs for about three seconds before passing out. I'd like to relate that to what the early planes were capable of; to examine the likelihood of a maneuvering-induced blackout occurring before a structural failure of the airframe occurred. The actual experiences and observations of yourself and Dave Gillespie provide a benchmark. Anything you can share will help. Thank you!
  3. As with your WWII sim: G-force blackouts are a function in FC1. I don't think it can be deactivated. You can also get wounded and lose all faculties until you recover. Wound a bot and the same thing happens to them, too: they look dead but then they come back to life. Merely unconscious. G-force blackouts can be averted if you ease-off at the stick a little bit when you sense it coming on. Get wounded and there's going to be an indeterminate length of time when you are totally inop until you wake back up. Hope you're dirty-side-down and get off the controls until the blindness passes is about all you can do. And yes, you can crash in the meantime. In FC1: nobody has a G-suit (heh!) but the Germans do have parachutes. In FC1: VR gives a great 3D flight experience. But TrackIR has advantages in MP.
  4. Bidu, I'm using a 2016 Cybertron; nothing special; just barely powerful enough to run the sim, my CH controls, and Oculus Rift. I fly ROF and FC1 as they come out of the box: no adjustments to anything. Plug and play. And I have never had a problem with the sims themselves or with how any of the planes fly. I've heard people speak of pitch problems for the Dr.1 in FC1 before; and now the D7? I focused on the Dr.1 for a couple years and never had a pitch problem with it. Lately I've gone back to the Camel, Scout, Pfalz, D7, and Brisfit; jumping back and forth from one plane to another and not having any problems. Because I used to teach milkstool jockies how to fly the taildragger; I think I understand what the control inputs should be like in planes of this approximate size, power, and weight. I find the FC1 flight models behave characteristically. I don't have any problem flying any of them and there's nothing I'd ask the Devs to change.
  5. The Devs provided "the bogie you didn't see coming." Thank you, Devs. That adds one more degree of unpredictability to the game. Keep up the good work.
  6. All valid points and i defer to your experience. I thought most all the replicas out there (yours included) were AA. My mistake. But this is how I learn. And you're right again. I've built some expensive projects in my life and not one of them was done for profit. I guess I'm just accustomed to validating it monetarily because many people assign all value to dollars and cents. I'm not like that, though. I've built the machines I have for the sheer joy of building, owning, and operating them. Only sold two original creations in my whole life and sometimes i wish I had those back. If rotary-powered AA replicas can be had for under $80K, that sounds good to me. Finding one for sale is awfully hard, though. Thanks for the information; it helps a lot. I'm gonna keep looking to see what's available. If you hear about any friends looking to sell a WW1 bird, please sound off. I'd be interested to learn of it.
  7. Thanks Chris. Saves me a phone call. Now we know the numbers. It all hinges on what the project will be worth when it's complete. I don't need museum quality and actually prefer the Aerodrome kits because they look easier to build and stronger once assembled. The DeLuxe airframe kit for an Aerodrome Fokker Dr.1 is $11.5K USD. Let's say we buy a new CamS Gnome for $65K and we get into the air for a total parts and materials investment of, say, $85K; labor NOT included because we build it ourselves as a labor of love. (Heh!) Could you get more than that for it? Sure. Three times that, easily; probably more. It's worth more than the sum of the parts. And when you're selling unobtanium: you can set your own price. Some buyers might actually prefer a Revmaster but if I build one of these I think it needs a rotary. (Okay, it's mostly because I want to fly one.) Finding a good used rotary might save $30K but even if we had to commit to an initial layout in the area of $80K for the engine and airframe components, it would still be economically feasible by a wide margin. I'm liking the idea more all the time. Thanks for your insight.
  8. Thanks Adam. Yep, that's the one! My wife just retired and she knows I have wanted to see the NZ fleet for a long time so we're planning a trip to New Zealand and it's good to know that's where the engines are built. We can cover a lot of bases in one trip. I'll check the prices and share what I learn. (Vancouver, eh? My wife's from Regina-Saskatchewan and had an Aunt on Vancouver Island. Small world.) Thanks for the vector. ADDIT: found this. Don't see a price sheet but I'm not surprised. Worth a phone call Monday morning. Lots of cool stuff at their website. Check it out. https://aerodynamicmedia.com/tval-aircraft-and-engines-for-sale/ ADDIT 2: Did some research. Too early to call now but I'm pretty sure those limited edition repro engines are gonna be extremely expensive; bracing for the shock. They also have some planes for sale. My understanding is they are authentic recreations done in wood, fabric, and other original materials; i.e., "museum quality." That's also way outta my ballpark. But they have a Snipe for sale. How cool is that? I remember that one from RB3 as superior to the Camel. It would really be nice to have a Snipe in FC1, just to see how much better it flies. But I don't know what they would balance that addition with on the German side.
  9. Thanks for the info. That's what i needed to know. I thought I'd seen a Kermie-Cam video a while back where someone (Gene DeMarco?) was talking about a manufacturer of new repro rotaries; might be wrong about that, though. I'll look into it and let you know if I find anything out. Projects: Among other things, I've been a mechanical fabricator and design technologist all my adult life; everything from submersibles to airplanes. My wife just retired 10-years early and this is a time of new beginnings for us. Presently, I have four mechanical projects we want to finish in two years. After that I'd be looking for a new project and a WW1 warbird is something I would really love to own but haven't gotten around to building yet. Actually, I could start buying and building the individual airframe kits while I'm finishing those other projects; that'd get a leg-up on the work and spread the cost around. The Aerodrome kits are reasonably priced, I think. Kit one is the rudder. Like to do one of those for the wall if nothing else. My friend Dave Gillespie in Canada has a Camel replica with a radial and tailwheel (asphalt bird). I'd like to either build a Dr.1 or a Camel but I'd probably have to go with a Volkswagen or the like at first. But once I am underway building the airframe, a rotary would be a wise purchase. $40K is a lot of money everywhere except in aviation; and if it makes the overall project more valuable then I think it's worth it. So yeah, I would LOVE to build a WW1 warbird and actually think I could make it happen in the next five years. What I like most about the Aerodrome planes is the frames are tube and rivet construction, and after that it's mostly fabric; doesn't have much Alclad to be riveted on. That means a lot less holes and rivets. Easier build. Thanks for the info and inspiration. I'll be watching your progress for pointers and will probably become an information-seeking nuisance someday. Sorry. Prosit! :-)
  10. Chris, Airframe prices for replica kits are clearly published at the Aerodrome website; not so rotary engines, though. QUESTION: If I wanted to buy a rotary engine like the one you recently mounted on your Dr.1; who is the supplier, how long is the waiting list, and approximately what do they cost the customer? Thanks.
  11. Yep. If you don't see me; look towards the sun. ;-)
  12. Zoo, It's a chore swapping my gaming computer and Scorpion rig back and forth between 2D and 3D. But I do have an older gaming computer that (last week) needs a new motherboard (got it now; not installed) and will (soon) be upgraded with Windows 10. I also have spare CH stick and pedals so I'll set-up that rig for ROF and TIR using our Samsung monitor. You mentioned some numbers online at ROF; who's flying? Wouldn't mind fighting Mamo again. I'd like that, actually. He didn't speak English and couldn't read my phonetic Russian but we developed an understanding. Instead of crying about getting rammed, I just went looking for him and did the exact same thing. After that he posted a smiley and from that point on we had many excellent fights and he always tried to avoid ramming me. But then there was an online campaign against him and after that he stopped flying. I hope he didn't quit altogether. Have you seen him around lately? Would like to fight Moro again, too. And Sudo, Blaster, Sarge, Ace, Voss, Ken, and a lot of others who come to mind. Any of them around these days? See you there. And thanks for the maps. I'll fly them offline when I get time. Prosit!
  13. WEP is an American term from WWII meaning War Emergency Power which implied pushing the engine to additional horsepower for combat. The P51 Mustang had a wire limiting the throttle lever; break it and 61% additional power became available for a short time. Other WEP methods (not just by America) included water injection or water-alcohol injection. WW1 airplanes had no such provisions and did not operate at WEP. The concept had not been realized until many years later. In a small plane, full throttle is generally referred to as METO power: Maximum Engine Take Off power. And generally, lengthy operations at METO power are discouraged to protect the engine. In every plane I've ever flown: you take off at METO and then cut back to cruise or cruise climb settings to avoid overheating the engine. Plus, it just makes good sense from the standpoint of fuel conservation and engine longevity. Do the ROF and FC1 planes overheat if you run at METO continously? My only experience with that was in 2017 when I tried to keep up with a runaway Flight Leader and toasted my Alby repeatedly. After that I stopped playing follow the leader and started flying the plane. No overheating problems since then. CHILL: I'm like this. When I see something outrageously cool; I wish I was doing it myself. But if I can't do it, I'm just as glad to see somebody else who can. You are living what the rest of us can only dream of and I am living the dream vicariously through the videos. Was very interesting to see your technique with the throttle and mixture levers. Thank you!
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