Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

32 Excellent

About Seb71

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

410 profile views
  1. Could also be from the assembly of the base. For instance, the other cams I got with my base were oiled (probably for anti-corrosion protection).
  2. The lubricant should be present in those metal shields protected ball bearings. But normally it should not leak. It's a viscous type lubricant, not a liquid one in those ball bearings. The leaked lubricant might not come from the ball bearing, though. That's why I asked if the leaked lubricant appeared to have come from the bearing or not.
  3. That's strange. Could that lubricant come from the ball bearing? The presence of the lubricant could partly explain why the bolt got loose. Which grip are you using? I've read some reports of lubricant leaking from Delta grip (probably from the twist mechanism).
  4. Since you sent them the base, ask them to also remove the screws from both cams for you and then to put back the cam screws without using Loctite threadlocker on those 4 screws. If you later decide to try other cams, this would greatly help.
  5. I had a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro (I sold it) and I still have two T.16000M out of three I had in total. All three T.16000M are/were the old version (green, not orange). As I said in my previous post, T.16000M is not that durable. For the first T.16000M I had I got my money back when the trigger button failed in warranty. The trigger from my second T.16000M started to act up, too, but mostly still works. The grip from this 2nd one has some play (mechanically; the sensors are fine) in the center zone and it seems that the potentiometer from twist on this same T.16000M is starting to also fail. I should mention that I mostly used this 2nd one as a left stick (as strafing stick + roll on twist) in Star Citizen (when I was still playing that). In a fight sim a joystick has a much gentler use so it should last longer. The grip shape and grip buttons (quality/feel of the grip buttons) of Logitech Extreme 3D Pro are better than the grip shape and buttons of T.16000M. And also you have two extra buttons on Logitech Extreme 3D Pro grip, which is a big plus (buttons on the base of any joystick are mostly worthless). If you have to use the throttle slider, I like the one from Logitech Extreme 3D Pro more. But the X&Y axis precision of T.16000M is greatly superior to what Logitech Extreme 3D Pro has. It's something you really notice in games, not just marketing speak.
  6. Seb71

    What PC do I need?

    Data needed for any recommendation: - monitor resolution (size is not relevant); - desired refresh rate/frame rate (and also if you want G-Sync or FreeSync); - maximum budget for this PC (without monitor and without any peripherals - so just for the PC itself); - if you want to use that PC for other games (and which) or for other things (if yes, then for what other things).
  7. So it's another USB port or not? If it's in another port, is it still detected in the old port? USB 3.0 supplies more amperage (more power) than USB 2.0 ports. Since you have the pedals connected through the joystick, this could be the issue in case you moved from USB 3.0 to USB 2.0.
  8. I would not wait that long for a motherboard, when I already bought all the other parts.
  9. You are trying to use a TARGET profile with the joystick and throttle combined? That should be the only device. Also in joy.cpl that should be the only device (while TARGET profile is active).
  10. Seb71

    USB Hubs

    I'm curious why you first said your USB hub is unpowered. Were you planning to use it without plugging in the USB hub power supply?
  11. Seb71

    Upgrade my pc

    @WheelwrightPL Ha ha. I'm not the one looking to buy. But i5 7500 (if you can still find it) is still more expensive than Ryzen 5 2600 here. @Mitthrawnuruodo I suppose that someone which has a GTX 1060 3GB can't easily afford a i9 9900K. And if he could, he should not stick to that GTX 1060 3GB.
  12. Seb71

    Upgrade my pc

    So as I said. You have to include the price of the cooler. Which significantly increases the "package price" and no longer makes the two choices comparable in price. In my country Ryzen 5 2600 is consistently cheaper than Core i3 8350K (without adding the price of the cooler for i3). For instance, right now the price of Ryzen 5 2600 is 80% of the price of i3 8350K. I asked for a better alternative at the same price as Ryzen 5 2600.
  13. Seb71

    Upgrade my pc

    A 10% difference is hardly noticeable (outside benchmarks). Are you going to overclock the i3 with the included cooler? Good luck.
  14. Seb71

    Upgrade my pc

    The single-thread performance difference is minor and i3-8350K is usually a little more expensive than Ryzen 5 2600, too. Regarding the cooler: I think you meant Noctua 14S cooler (not Noshua). And that cooler increases the price by at least 30%. Not to mention that in order to achieve a serious overclock you need a more expensive motherboard, with good VRMs.