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  1. From the spec sheet: Climb power (up to 30 minutes): 2400 RPM, 1.25 ata Take-off power (up to 1 minute): 2600 RPM, 1.42 ata For all but the last added planes: https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/25993-aircraft-flight-and-technical-specifications-and-operational-details/ Tech chat can be spotty if you spawn already in flight. Sometimes you have to throttle/rpm down and then increase again for the chat to act correctly (i.e. tell you that you are in boost mode) For the jumo engines, climb is 85 85, throttle/prop. Between 2-3k is a supercharger dead zone so you can throttle up. Above 5200 to 5600, you can again go to 100% throttle and adjust rpm to get into continuous mode.
  2. Yes, you reach take-off power at 2050 rpm, but you can only reach this in level/diving flight with these fixed pitched props. It's just another way to say max power 5 min @ 2050. Climb/Combat power for 30 min etc. With variable-pitch props, they probably could have reached the 2050 mark. Course setter: Are you referring to the rotary dial directly below the vertical velocity indicator? There is no key binding, but this is used to determine the course to or from a radio non-direction beacon used in radio navigation.
  3. Thank you for the building draw distance increase. This makes lining up a high alt level bombing run much easier.
  4. On the arming page, skins tab, there is an arrow down to change from default to custom, the skins should be in there. Otherwise you may have to move them manually into the Hs-129 folder. For some quick tank busting practice you can also d/l the single player mission pack from Jade Monkey. There is a duck tank busting mission with unlimited ammo. https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/25593-jade_monkeys-single-player-sp-missions/
  5. The testing I have done, you get close to the time limit by using the setting stated in the specs not the max on tech chat (1.3 @ 2400) I would test that in a map at sea level in autumn and go from there. Not at gaming comp at the moment or I would test it. Cockpit clock seems spot on so you can speed up to say 4 min and then go back to real time. Do several tests at each alt. After each test, finish the mission as restarting seems to cause some quirks.
  6. Set fuel mixture to 50% for auto mode and reduce rpm to get out of boost ( I run about 90%) with this setting you can run full throttle on the nominal setting (no timer) For full boost, put the mixture to 100% and prop to 100%. From the spec sheet which you can access this tab from the map screen (letter O) or from here: Engine mixture control is automatic when the mixture lever is set to the intermediate (50%) position. It is possible to manually lean the mixture by moving the control lever to less than 50%. This will lower fuel consumption during flight. No matter what plane you fly the tech chat will tell you to enter combat to climb, or to get out of combat while enroute. (A no win situation, so just run the engines according to the spec sheet and disregard the tips)
  7. For Hs-129 fans. You can order a new revised edition of Pegg's Panzerjager here: 296 pages and 415 photos. https://www.chandospublications.co.uk/hs-129/
  8. I messed with this a little bit trying different settings, double bindings etc. and I believe you are right that if you want to use an axis that you have to add a 3rd one. So the choices I believe are: 1. Make a 3rd axis with the generic mixture setting 2. When flying the duck, just you the keyboard for the generic mixture setting as you set the mix to 66% and leave it there for 99% of the time. The other times are 100% for an overheating condition or lean if you are trying to save fuel. If VR, just set at the start and leave it. 3. I use the generic setting for all the mixtures. Works well for the duck and multi-engines/single engines. Then if you want to change a mixture on a non duck multi-engine you would use the select engine toggle to adjust the mixture on only one engine at a time.
  9. Mixture right now seems to be like the rest of the planes. (Right or wrong I can't say) 100% for start, takeoff, 90% once airborne and 80% at 1000m. Tried leaning and I could take it all to 0% @1000m or on the deck and it keeps running at around 15 kph slower.
  10. You need AFN-1 (on right) for flying TO a beacon and distance and the rotary (2 down) for flying FROM. Both together you can also triangulate your position if we could change freq channels. 3rd one (left) maybe older system now a reduntant gauge in case AFN-1 malfunctions. Mixture I will have to test later as I have not messed with it in a while
  11. Yes they are doing the same thing. The one on the right has the light in it. You have to be directly over the beacon to get a light and the lower you are the shorter the flash of the light. The gauge 2 down from the right one also gives the bearing to the beacon which is helpful when flying away from a beacon. Combined with the distance meter it can help you stay lined up on the bearing and know how far you are from it.
  12. Settings: Pilot Head Control: Pilot Head Snap Position Modifier: Custom. Should look right at all the gauges.
  13. I bombed a Soviet cargo ship and gunboat and was charged with friendly fire for hitting 2 pontoon bridges at that target. Target needs to be looked at and see if pontoon bridges need to be changed to Soviet. http://il2stat.aviaskins.com:8008/en/sortie/4504268/?tour=50 Thanks!
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